Blackheads on the face: a guide to natural solutions

A blackhead is what is known as an ‘open comedone’. In other words, it's a sort of open spot. This completely benign lesion takes the form of a tiny spot of around 1 millimetre. It releases an oily substance when squeezed. Blackheads on the face or body can be identified by their characteristic greyish or blackish tinge. This is the result of an oxidisation of the impurities that caused the comedone.

Blackheads on the cheeks, nose or chin should not be confused with sebaceous filaments. The latter are very common on skin prone to heavy sebum secretion. How can you tell the difference? They are smaller, lighter and more numerous than blackheads. Although sometimes considered unsightly, they are a completely normal phenomenon.

The appearance of blackheads is directly linked to the sebaceous impregnation of the upper layers of the epidermis. This means that open blackheads thrive where sebaceous glands are numerous and active. The entire T-zone of the face is therefore affected.

Blackheads form when dead skin cells accumulate at the entrance of the sebaceous glands, the ‘pilosebaceous orifices’ or ‘follicular ostia’. These pores are used to excrete sebum, an oily substance produced to moisturise and protect the skin. When there is an excess of dead cells and sebum, a plug forms, obstructing the pore.

Rather than remaining under the skin, the blackhead therefore ends up on the surface due to the pressure of the sebum that continues to flow. Once it comes into contact with the air, the lipids in the plug oxidise, causing the exposed area to darken. This results in a blackhead that is visible on the surface.

Excessive sebum production, often influenced by hormonal factors, frequently occurs during puberty or under stress. Over-stimulated sebaceous glands produce more sebum, which increases the risk of clogged pores.

Your environment and lifestyle also play a role: pollution and a diet high in sugars, fats and processed foods can cause blackheads to form and stimulates the production of sebum.

Finally, an unsuitable skincare routine can also be a factor. Using products that are too aggressive or what is known as "comedogenic" upsets the skin's hydrolipidic balance and can disrupt sebum production, exacerbating the problem of clogged pores.

Although they are sometimes confused and have some similarities, blackheads and open pores are quite different. Blackheads are the result of clogged pores that fill with sebum, dead skin cells and impurities. All this accumulates and oxidises, leaving characteristic little blackheads or dark spots. They are mainly found on the T-zone (nose, forehead, chin), where sebum production is highest.

Open pores, on the other hand, do not contain build-ups of sebum; they look more like small holes visible on the surface of the skin or the pores that can be found on the surface of a citrus fruit. Their appearance is due to factors such as genetics, oily skin or a poor lifestyle. They generally appear in the T-zone.

Blackheads can develop in different ways, depending on how the skin is treated. In some cases, it can develop into a more problematic form: acne. Acne is often associated with a specific bacterium: Propionibacterium acnes, also known as Cutibacterium acnes.

This bacterium can infect blackheads and trigger an inflammatory reaction. Certain strains are usually behind the development of inflammatory lesions characteristic of acne, such as pustules (pus-filled spots) and papules (red, swollen spots). These blemishes can be painful and can leave scars or pigmentation spots if not treated properly.

Here are some active ingredients recommended for open pores and blackheads:

Make these recipes at home to cleanse your skin and help eliminate blackheads:

Blackheads can be a symptom of acne, a dermatological condition that can vary in severity. For persistent or severe acne, it is essential to consult a specialist, such as a dermatologist, in order to determine the type of acne and obtain appropriate treatment.