What are the best moisturizing ingredients?

* TEWL: TransEpidermal Water Loss, which measures the amount of water that evaporates through the skin. A high rate indicates a compromised skin barrier.

Well-hydrated skin well-hydrated skin is skin whose water content in the stratum corneum, measured by corneometry (a technique for measuring skin hydration using impedance measurement), remains within an optimal range, and whose skin barrier is sufficiently intact to limit water loss. It generally has a supple texture, a smooth surface, and reduced skin reactivity. (1, 8)

Natural moisturizing factors (NMF) play a fundamental role here. Naturally present in the cells of the stratum corneum, they are composed of amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), lactic acid, urea, and other small hygroscopic molecules (which easily absorb moisture from the ambient air) that attract and retain water within the epidermis. Insufficient NMF production, whether genetic or age-related, directly contributes to skin dehydration (8).

Added to this is the intercellular lipid barrier, composed of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in balanced proportions. When this barrier is compromised—by harsh detergents, extreme weather conditions, skin aging, or genetic predisposition—water loss increases significantly, creating a vicious cycle of skin discomfort (1, 2).

It is this understanding of the mechanisms—humectation, occlusion, and barrier repair—that allows us to select relevant active ingredients and integrate them coherently into a skincare routine.

Effective skin hydration relies on the combination of three families of active ingredients with complementary mechanisms. Here are the most well-documented ones in each category: their full specifications are detailed in the table below.

Humectants: attracting and retaining water

These hygroscopic molecules capture water and lock it into the skin’s surface layers. They form the foundation of any moisturizing skincare product. The most effective: hyaluronic acid (a very powerful humectant capable of binding large amounts of water), glycerin (dual mechanism, excellent tolerance, well-documented), sodium PCA (a major component of the NMF, ideal for mature skin or skin exposed to dry environments), and low-concentration urea (a humectant and emollient, with keratolytic properties at higher doses) (2, 3, 8).

Occlusives: limiting water loss

They form a protective layer on the skin’s surface that slows evaporation (TEWL). Essential for dry skin or skin with a compromised barrier, they should be combined with humectants to optimize their effect. The essentials: shea butter (a gentle occlusive with nourishing and soothing properties) and ceramides (essential lipids of the stratum corneum, a deficiency of which is directly linked to increased TEWL) (1, 2, 5).

Emollients and soothing agents: nourishing and supporting the barrier

They fill intercellular spaces, improve suppleness, and act as an interface between humectants and occlusives. The most useful: panthenol (hydrating, soothing, and promoting skin barrier repair, with an exceptional tolerance profile), aloe vera (humectant and film-forming polysaccharides, lightweight, non-comedogenic), and prebiotics (support for the skin microbiome, relevant for sensitive or reactive skin) (4, 6, 7).

The moisturizing ingredients presented below act on different and complementary mechanisms. The choice should be based on skin type, the severity of dryness, and tolerated textures, rather than on a “more is better” approach. 

We’ll help you make a clearer choice when selecting moisturizing ingredients, based on your skin type.

Dry skin

This might be your case if… Your skin feels rough to the touch, is sometimes flaky, uncomfortable, and chronically dull. Skin dryness indicates a lipid deficiency, often associated with a compromised skin barrier and high TEWL. It can worsen in winter or in air-conditioned environments (1, 2).

Key ingredients to look for: rich emollients like shea butter and occlusive agents like ceramides, to restore the lipid barrier and limit water loss. Low-concentration urea effectively complements this action by improving suppleness and facilitating the penetration of moisturizing ingredients. Glycerin and panthenol support daily skin comfort (2, 5, 7, 8).

Combination skin

This might be your case if… The T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) shows shine and enlarged pores, while the cheeks feel tight or uncomfortable. This paradoxical profile is common and requires a two-step approach, tailored to each area (1, 8).

Key ingredients to look for: hyaluronic acid and aloe vera as lightweight humectants, which hydrate without weighing the skin down or clogging pores. Niacinamide is particularly well-suited for this skin type: it regulates sebum in the T-zone while strengthening the skin barrier and hydrating dry areas. Avoid rich textures and occlusive butters on oily areas (3, 4, 9).

Oily skin

This might be your case if… Your skin is shiny first thing in the morning, pores are visible, and the texture feels thick. Contrary to popular belief, an oily skin can indeed be dehydrated—especially when overly harsh skincare products have damaged the skin barrier, leading to compensatory sebum overproduction (1, 8).

Key ingredients to look for: light, non-comedogenic humectants such as hyaluronic acid and Sodium PCA, which help maintain hydration in the stratum corneum and strengthen the skin barrier. Niacinamide is essential here for regulating sebum while reinforcing the barrier. Aloe vera is an excellent base for skincare, soothing and moisturizing without leaving a greasy residue (3, 4, 9).

Problem skin

This might be your case if… Breakouts (blackheads, inflammatory pimples) appear regularly, sometimes accompanied by tightness or increased sensitivity, a result of overly drying skincare products or prolonged use of strong purifying ingredients. A compromised skin barrier promotes inflammation and breakouts: moisturizing problem skin isn’t a luxury—it’s an essential step (1, 2).

Ingredients to turn to: Hyaluronic acid, which is non-comedogenic, hydrates without clogging pores. Niacinamide is likely the most relevant ingredient for this skin type: it hydrates, regulates sebum, and reduces inflammation simultaneously. Aloe vera soothes and hydrates without causing breakouts. Panthenol helps restore skin comfort and repair the skin barrier. Prebiotics support the microbiome, which is often disrupted in acne-prone skin (3, 4, 6, 7, 9). Avoid: rich plant butters and comedogenic oils on blemishes.

Mature skin

This may apply to you if… Mature skin lacks firmness, shows pronounced expression lines, and experiences increasing dryness. With age, NMF production decreases, the lipid barrier weakens, and the skin’s ability to retain water is significantly reduced (1, 8).

Key ingredients to look for: a combination of humectants (hyaluronic acid, Sodium PCA) and emollient-restoratives (ceramides, shea butter) to simultaneously address both compromised mechanisms. Panthenol complements this action by promoting cell regeneration. Niacinamide can also be included for its effect on skin tone evenness and barrier reinforcement (1, 2, 4, 5, 10).

Certain well-intentioned practices or combinations of ingredients can perpetuate or worsen skin dehydration:

• Over-exfoliating without compensating: Exfoliating ingredients (AHAs, salicylic acid, enzymes) accelerate cell turnover, but when used too frequently or at high concentrations without moisturizing support, they compromise the skin barrier and increase TEWL. Result: reactive, uncomfortable skin that is, paradoxically, duller. Always follow up with a moisturizing step after exfoliation (1,2).

• Using cleansers that are too harsh: Aggressive surfactants remove not only impurities but also the intercellular lipids essential to the skin barrier. A cleanser that is too harsh can be enough to disrupt hydration, even if the skincare routine is otherwise appropriate (1).

• Applying hyaluronic acid to completely dry skin: Hyaluronic acid is hygroscopic: when applied to completely dry skin in a low-humidity environment, it can temporarily draw water from the deeper layers to the surface and promote its evaporation. Best practice: apply it to slightly damp skin, then seal with an occlusive or emollient active ingredient. (3,8) 

• Stacking humectants without occlusives: Humectants alone are not enough to maintain long-lasting hydration. Without an occlusive or emollient layer to lock in the drawn-in water, it evaporates quickly. An effective moisturizing routine relies on combining both types of active ingredients. (2)

• Neglecting the order of application: Hyaluronic acid applied directly after a concentrated AHA serum, without a waiting period, may see its effectiveness reduced due to pH incompatibility. Waiting 10 to 15 minutes between applications, or alternating them morning and night, helps optimize results.

"Naturally present in the skin barrier, hyaluronic acid acts like a sponge by retaining up to 1,000 times its weight in water, which helps hydrate and soften the skin. It is suitable for all skin types, and I recommend it especially for skin lacking hydration. Lightweight and non-comedogenic, it easily fits into any skincare routine without weighing down the skin and can be applied both morning and night."

@docteur_skin, dermatologist and member of the Aroma-Zone College of Dermatologists

"Gently exfoliate 2 or 3 times a week, leaving the Papaya and Vitamin C Enzymatic Cleansing Powder on for 1 to 3 minutes before rinsing to remove dead skin cells and allow moisturizing ingredients to penetrate effectively."

Pascale Ruberti, Director of Innovation & Products at Aroma-Zone

The ingredients presented can be incorporated into custom formulations or used in ready-to-use skincare products, depending on the desired level of simplicity.

Our cosmetic active ingredients

Intense Hydration Active Complex

This active ingredient replicates the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF) by combining several synergistic components. Ultra-effective and versatile, it can be incorporated into all types of formulations—creams, gels, lotions, and foaming products—for the face, body, and hair. Dosage: 1–3% in your aqueous formulations.

Discover the Intense Hydration Complex Active Ingredient

Natural hyaluronic acid active ingredient

High-end and highly effective even at low doses, this ingredient intensely hydrates and plumps the skin. A must-have in your lifting, firming, and anti-wrinkle moisturizers for the face and décolletage. Dosage: 0.1 to 0.5% in your aqueous formulations.

Discover the Natural Hyaluronic Acid Active Ingredient

Fucocer active ingredient

Rich in polysaccharides of French origin, this 100% natural active ingredient hydrates, soothes, and restructures the skin while providing a soft feel. It also offers anti-aging potential through its action on sirtuins, the “longevity proteins.” Dosage: 0.1 to 20% in your aqueous formulations.

Discover the Fucocert Active Ingredient

Urea

A natural component of the NMF, urea is known for its intense moisturizing properties and its keratolytic effect in cosmetics. It restores suppleness and softness to very dry, rough, or flaky skin, and is a good alternative to AHAs for smoothing out irregularities. Recommended concentration: 1–5% for moisturizing use; 5–10% for a moisturizing and keratolytic effect.

Discover the Urea Active Ingredient

Plant-derived ceramides

Derived from sunflower oil, these plant-based ceramides protect against dehydration and restore the skin’s hydrolipidic film. They blend easily into your creams, lotions, and gels to strengthen the skin barrier. Dosage: 1–5% in your aqueous formulations.

Discover the Plant-Based Ceramides Active Ingredient

Organic Aloe Vera Powder Active Ingredient

Obtained through freeze-drying and concentrated 200 times, this powder captures all the benefits of Aloe vera: hydration, soothing, and regeneration. It easily rehydrates in water and can be incorporated into all your homemade water-based skincare products. Dosage: 0.1 to 0.5% in your water-based formulas.

Discover the Organic Aloe Vera Powder Active Ingredient

Provitamin B5 (panthenol)

Panthenol is a reparative and soothing active ingredient with documented moisturizing properties. It can be used in both your face and body care products as well as in your hair care formulations for its fortifying benefits. Dosage: 2 to 5% in your aqueous formulations.

Discover the Provitamin B5 (Panthenol) Active Ingredient

Vegan collagen peptide active ingredient

Composed of plant-derived amino acids, this active ingredient replicates the effects of collagen on the skin: hydration, enhanced skin density, and reduced water loss. Ideal for dry and mature skin. Dosage: 1 to 10% in your aqueous formulations.

Discover the Vegan Collagen Peptides Cosmetic Active Ingredient

Our ready-to-use formulas

3.5% Hyaluronic Acid Concentrated Serum

One of the most concentrated HA serums on the market, 100% naturally derived. Its fresh, gel-like texture absorbs instantly to smooth, hydrate, and plump the skin. Proven efficacy on wrinkles, hydration, and elasticity. Use it undiluted or customize it with active ingredients.

Discover the 3.5% Hyaluronic Acid Concentrated Serum

100% Hyaluronic Acid Serum Pearls

These pearls encapsulate four different molecular weights of 100% pure hyaluronic acid using innovative freeze-drying technology. Instant smoothing and plumping effect with a single application, or a 7-day intensive treatment for long-lasting hydration and visible results on signs of aging.

Discover the 100% Hyaluronic Acid Serum Pearls

Hyaluronic Acid & Polyglutamic Acid Cream

This clinically proven and dermatologically tested face cream combines next-generation hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid for up to 48 hours of hydration. The result: soft, supple, and plump skin.

Discover the Hyaluronic Acid & Polyglutamic Acid Cream

Organic Thirst-Quenching Face and Body Cream

Certified organic and 100% natural, this cream enriched with aloe vera and peppermint hydrosol provides intense hydration for up to 8 hours. Light, non-greasy texture, suitable for sensitive skin. Use it as is or customize it with your own active ingredients and essential oils.

Discover the Thirst-Quenching Face and Body Cream

Organic Youth Face and Body Cream

A complete anti-aging, smoothing, and plumping skincare product, certified organic. It combines rosehip oil and hyaluronic acid for supple, soft, and visibly younger-looking skin. Customizable with your active ingredients according to your needs.

Discover the Youthful Face and Body Cream

Rich Vegan Collagen & Organic Spilanthes Cream

Designed for mature skin, this certified organic cream—proven effective against 8 signs of aging—combines firming vegan collagen, Spilanthes extract with a plant-based Botox effect, and plumping hyaluronic acid. For redensified, smoothed, and hydrated skin.

Discover the Vegan Collagen & Spilanthes Rich Cream

Organic Aloe Vera Native Gel

100% natural and with a guaranteed concentration of aloeverose, this gel hydrates, soothes irritation, and regenerates the skin. It can be used undiluted on the skin and hair or as a base for your homemade skincare products. Ideal after sun exposure or for reactive skin.

Discover the Organic Aloe Vera Gel

At Aroma-Zone, community feedback on the highest-rated moisturizers complements our experts’ work and confirms the long-term effectiveness of these products:

"You’ve always been my favorites—prices, products, and customer service, everything is perfect! I’m particularly thrilled with the hyaluronic acid cream, which is, I think, the best cream I’ve ever had. And it was also here that I finally found the urea ingredient I’d been searching for for so long!” Anima, April 7, 2026

"As soon as I need a skincare product, I don’t hesitate: I head straight to Aroma-Zone. Moisturizing face cream, hand cream, etc.... Very satisfied with the quality, selection, and products offered." Mia, February 2, 2026

Humectants such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin are well-tolerated by the vast majority of skin types. In cases of very sensitive skin or an unusual reaction, it is recommended to test the product on the inner elbow for 48 hours before applying it to the face. Certain ingredients, such as high-concentration urea or panthenol in individuals with a known allergy to pantothenic acid, require special caution. Consult a healthcare professional if you have a skin condition before incorporating new ingredients into your skincare routine.

Well-hydrated skin is not skin flooded with active ingredients. The effectiveness of a moisturizing routine depends above all on the consistency of the combination of humectants and occlusives or emollients, and on regular application. The order of application also matters: applying the best moisturizing ingredients to slightly damp skin, starting with the lightest and moving to the most nourishing, helps optimize their effectiveness. Consistent use and paying attention to your skin’s signals remain essential factors.

After graduating from ESCP Business School in 2020, Louise began her career as a writer in 2021. Today, she writes a newsletter where she shares cultural recommendations and more personal articles, such as dating apps, therapy, and career guidance. She also writes for the media, brands and agencies on subjects such as well-being, mental health, culture, and society.