Urea Active Ingredient

• Application: hair care, skin care

• Level of difficulty: medium

• I add it to an AZ neutral base: yes

• Suitable for cosmetic recipes: yes

Used as an ingredient in your formulations:

Skin care

• Intense moisture-quenching cream

• Anti “crocodile skin” body lotion

• Gentle care for delicate skin

• Smoothing moisture-boosting lotion

• Cream for dry feet

• Exfoliating cleansing gel

• Radiance-boosting moisture mask

Hair care

• Moisturizing and soothing shampoo for scalps prone to discomfort

• Moisture-boosting hair mask for very dry scalps

Preparation

Add it to a neutral Aroma-Zone base

Urea can be incorporated as an active ingredient into your water-based cosmetic preparations: creams, lotions, gels, body washes, shampoos...

Incorporating urea into an emulsion

3 possible options:

Incorporation into the water phase before emulsification (recommended for higher concentrations: 5–10%)

1. Dissolve the urea in the water phase before emulsification. If emulsification requires heating (which is the case most of the time), incorporate the urea into the hot water phase. Avoid heating it too strongly or for too long.

2. Use this water phase to prepare the emulsion as usual.

Incorporation at the end of the formulation after pre-dissolution

1. Dissolve the urea in a small amount of water (approx. 1 g/ml) or glycerin (approx. 1 g/2 ml). This will limit the amount of urea that can be incorporated into the product (avoid exceeding 10% total additions in an emulsion).

2. Incorporate the water/urea or glycerin/urea mixture into the cooled emulsion at the end of the formulation.

Incorporate the urea as is at the end of the formulation, into the lukewarm (50°C) or cooled emulsion.

1. Incorporate the urea as is at the end of the formulation, into the lukewarm (50°C) or cooled emulsion.

2. Stir until the crystals are completely dissolved.

Note: This last method is not suitable for water-in-oil creams, but works perfectly at low urea concentrations (1–5%) in oil-in-water emulsions, stirring well until the crystals are fully dissolved.

Incorporating urea into an aqueous gel, lotion or foaming product

1. Dissolve the urea in the water phase, preferably cold, stirring thoroughly until the granules are completely dissolved.

2. Use the water phase in the rest of the preparation (by adding a gelling agent, surfactants, etc.).

NB: It is also possible to add the urea at the end of the preparation, stirring well until the crystals are completely dissolved. This is preferable if the preparation requires heating of the aqueous phase.

Urea can also be incorporated at up to 5% into a ready-to-use AZ Neutral Base to create:

• an emulsion: with the Neutral Organic Plant Milk, the Neutral Organic Youth Cream and Neutral Organic Moisturizing Cream, or the Neutral Organic Hair Mask Base

• an aqueous gel: with the Organic Aloe Vera Gel

• a mask: with the Peel-Off Mask Base

• a foaming product: with the Neutral Organic Cleansing Base, the Neutral Organic Shampoo Base, or the Neutral Organic Cleansing Cream Base

Precautions

Precautions and allergens

Precautions for use

Allergens

Allergen-free

Synergies

Skin care

• Care for atopic-prone skin: Chaulmoogra vegetable oil, Inca inchi vegetable oil, Kiwi CO2 extract, Roman Chamomile hydrosol, Colloidal Oatmeal powder...

• Care for dry skin: Plant-based Squalane, Hyaluronic acid, Plant-based Collagen, Inulin...

• Care for dry, acne-prone skin: Algo’zinc, Bacti-Pur, Fragonia, Green Myrtle and Palmarosa essential oils, Lemon, Witch Hazel and Tea Tree hydrosols...

• Very dry and rough skin: AHA fruit acids (exfoliating), Bisabolol (to soothe and improve AHA tolerance)

Hair care

• Dry scalps: Plant-based Ceramides, Provitamin B5...

• Sensitive scalps: Burdock extract, Peony powder...

Quality

Cosmetic grade, 100% pure

We now offer urea in the form of a fine crystalline powder, much easier to dissolve in your formulas than the granulated powder.

Function

Moisturizing and keratolytic cosmetic active

Benefits and properties

• Exfoliating

• Moisturizing

Composition

100% pure urea

Other names

Carbamide

INCI name

Urea

Presentation

White crystalline powder with a characteristic, slightly ammonia-like odor, packaged in resealable zip bags

Learn more

Storage

• Store at room temperature away from moisture and light.

• Close the bag tightly after use.

Precautions

• Keep out of reach of children.

• Do not swallow.

• Follow the recommended dosage.

Supplier documentation

Raab WP

Uses of urea in cosmetology, Cosmetics and Toiletries.

Efficacy of topical 10% urea-based lotion in patients with ichthyosis vulgaris: a two-center, randomized, controlled, single-blind, right-vs.-left study in comparison with standard glycerol-based emollient cream, Curr Med Res Opin.

Tadini G, Giustini S, Milani M.

Cream or foam in pedal skin care: towards the ideal vehicle for urea used against dry skin, Int J Cosmet Sci.

Borelli C, Bielfeldt S, Borelli S, Schaller M, Korting HC.

A double-blind study of tolerance and efficacy of a new urea-containing moisturizer in patients with atopic dermatitis, J Cosmet Dermatol.

Bissonnette R, Maari C, Provost N, Bolduc C, Nigen S, Rougier A, Seite S.