There are two types of shea butter: refined shea butter and pure, unrefined shea butter:
Refined shea butter: this is the type found in most traditional cosmetics and is the least expensive. This is because it is extracted using a petrochemical solvent, which is quicker and less expensive, resulting in cheaper products with a longer shelf life. However, refining, which is done at high temperatures and often using low-quality almonds, denatures the butter and causes it to lose a large proportion of its vitamins, fatty acids and natural properties (around 50% to 80%). It is bleached, deodorised and has a lumpy texture (caused by its fatty acids disappearing) which sometimes means it is quite difficult to spread.
Pure or unrefined shea butter: this is the most raw and natural shea butter. It is produced by gentle extraction (whether traditional, artisanal or by mechanical cold pressing) of very fatty nuts of excellent quality (and therefore makes it more expensive). The sun-dried almonds are then ground by hand, the resulting paste is churned with water and then cooked for a long time in a cauldron to separate the butter from impurities. The butter is then filtered and beaten by hand. This method preserves all its properties, particularly its vitamins and fatty acids. Pure shea butter has a true colour (depending on its origin, it can be beige, off-white, pale yellow, etc.). It has a slight nutty aroma, sometimes similar to that produced by roasting coffee. It has a melting texture and penetrates the skin easily.
Before choosing a shea butter, opt for pure or unrefined shea butter, which also has a social and environmental role to play. Shea butter production is the main activity for many people in African countries, but the refining technique, which creates more pollution and is cheaper, effectively takes this business away from them. Choose organic and/or traditionally-produced products.