BTMS Emulsifier
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Preparation of emulsions, particularly for hair care. Ideal for making:
Conditioning cream shampoos
Detangling conditioners
Fortifying and softening hair masks
Leave-in smoothing serums
Discover our thematic dossier "How can I moisturise my hair naturally?" to learn more and create your personalised hair care programme.
Self-emulsifying: allows stable emulsions to be produced without the need for a co-emulsifier or stabiliser.
Hair conditioner: helps to reduce static electricity, making hair easier to detangle.
Leaves hair soft, silky and easy to style without weighing it down.
Adds body and bounce to the hair.
Skin conditioner: provides a satin feel and leaves the skin soft.
Hair care products formulated with BTMS are generally well tolerated by the skin.
Helps to lower the pH of final preparations.
Hair type: Suitable for all hair types, especially long hair that is difficult to detangle, hair with split ends, coloured, unruly, curly or frizzy hair.
Emulsion type: Oil-in-water emulsions
General characteristics
Dosage
2-10% (of the total weight of your preparation) to be added to the oil phase
Melting temperature
55°C
Insoluble in water
Oil soluble
To be dispersed in the hot oil phase
Compatibility with preservatives
Grapefruit Seed Extract | 3/3 |
Naticide | 3/3 |
Cosgard | 3/3 |
*** no influence on stability
** a decrease in stability has been observed in some cases at low dosages, or temporary destabilisation has been noted when the preservative is added
* risk of emulsion destabilisation.
Preparation
Precautions
Precautions and allergens
Precautions for use
Allergens
Allergen-free
Hot emulsification at approximately 70°C.
Utensil:
Hand whisk or electric mixer for forming emulsions
Spatula or spoon for incorporating surfactants without creating foam
BTMS can be incorporated into the oil phase on its own or combined with other emulsifiers or co-emulsifiers (Emulsifying Wax No. 1, Conditioner Emulsifier). It should be heated to around 60°C in order to melt. BTMS does not require acidification.
Emulsions without surfactants (conditioners, creams, and scrubs)
Melt the BTMS in the oil phase (with or without another emulsifier) at approximately 70°C.
Heat the aqueous phase in another container to approximately 70°C.
Combine the two phases and shake vigorously to emulsify. Continue shaking for at least 3 minutes.
Place the mixing bowl in a cold water bath to accelerate the cooling of the emulsion, and continue stirring for at least 3 minutes.
Shampoos and shower gels
Due to its structure, BTMS can only be used to make cream shampoos and shower gels, that is in the form of an emulsion containing an oil phase. The cleansing surfactants should be added after emulsification.
Proceed with the formation of the emulsion as described on the opposite page.
Mix the resulting cream with the chosen surfactant or surfactant blend.
Add the remaining ingredients to your shampoo or shower gel (active ingredients, aromatic extracts, preservatives, etc.).
As a cationic surfactant, BTMS is incompatible with strong anionic surfactants. However, according to our tests, it can be used with our mild foaming base, which contains a weak anionic surfactant.
Unless otherwise indicated, avoid combining BTMS with anionic surfactants.
Aroma-Zone Tip
BTMS tends to lower the pH of the final preparation. If you are formulating your own BTMS-based shampoos and conditioners, use pH paper to carefully monitor the pH of your products. The recommended pH is 5 to 7 for a mild shampoo and 4.5 to 5 for a conditioner.
3% BTMS | 0.9 g |
5% BTMS | 1.5 g |
8% BTMS | 2.4 g |
10% BTMS | 3 g |
3% BTMS | 1.5 g |
5% BTMS | 2.5 g |
8% BTMS | 4 g |
10% BTMS | 5 g |
3% BTMS | 3 g |
5% BTMS | 5 g |
8% BTMS | 8 g |
10% BTMS | 10 g |
3% BTMS | 7.5 g |
5% BTMS | 12.5 g |
8% BTMS | 20 g |
10% BTMS | 25 g |
1 scoop 5 ml (leveled*) | 3.3 g |
1 scoop 2 ml (leveled*) | 1.6 g |
* leveled: spoon filled to the brim with the excess removed using a spatula or the back of a knife
Zero waste promotion: minimum use-by date August 2026
Quality
Partially plant-based (rapeseed, palm) and partially synthetic.
Method of preparation
Mixture of cetearyl alcohol (>50%), vegetable-based fatty alcohol and behentrimonium methosulfate (20-30%), a plant-based cationic conditioner.
Function
Emulsifier (allows the formation and maintenance of an emulsion over time) and hair conditioning agent (facilitates detangling of the hair).
INCI designation
Cetearyl Alcohol and Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Presentation
Small white pellets with a slight ammonia smell, packaged in zippered bags.
Type
Cationic emulsifier, non-ethoxylated
Learn more
Hair conditioners
Offering these conditioners was the subject of considerable debate within the Aroma-Zone team, as conditioning agents are often criticised for their potentially irritating properties.
However, many of you want soft, easy-to-comb hair, and to date no natural product provides perfect detangling.
After deliberately ruling out synthetic silicones, which can suffocate the hair and weaken it over time, we turned our attention to quaternary ammonium compounds. These compounds are often criticised for their irritating effects on the skin and their environmental toxicity. However, we selected the most promising of these active molecules. In vitro and in vivo tests showed that products made with BTMS, at the recommended doses, did not irritate the skin or eyes.
pH
The pH (potential of hydrogen) determines whether an aqueous mixture is acidic, neutral, or basic. pH is measured on a scale from 1 to 14:
1 < pH <7: acidic pH
pH = 7: neutral pH
7 < pH < 14: basic (or alkaline) pH
In general, a shampoo or hair care product should have a pH suitable for the hair, that is, slightly acidic, in order to help tighten the hair cuticles. Recommended pH:
For shampoo: 5 to 7
For shower gel: 5 to 7.5
For a detangling hair care product: 4.5 to 5
For intimate hygiene products: 4.5 to 5.5 for women of childbearing age, 6.5 to 7 for young girls and menopausal women
Surfactants
Definition: A surfactant is a compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces (that is, the tension at the interface between two media). Surfactant compounds are amphiphilic molecules, meaning they have two parts with different polarities: a lipophilic part, which has a strong affinity for fats, and a hydrophilic part, which has a strong affinity for water.
Functions of surfactants: depending on their structure, surfactants may serve different functions:
Detergent (or cleaning) agent: capable of removing impurities or dirt
Foaming agent: acting at the water–air interface, this type of agent allows a large volume of gas to be dispersed in a small volume of liquid, thus forming foam
Wetting agent: allows a liquid to spread more easily over a solid
Emulsifier: allows two immiscible liquids, such as water and oil, to be mixed together to form an emulsion
Conditioning agent: combines with keratin or skin to make them smooth and silky
Types of surfactants: there are four types of surfactant compounds, grouped according to the nature of their hydrophilic part:
Anionic surfactants: the hydrophilic part is negatively charged (anion). These surfactants are particularly effective as detergents.
Cationic surfactants: the hydrophilic part is positively charged (cation).
Amphoteric surfactants: these have both a positive and a negative charge.
Nonionic surfactants: the molecule has no charge. These are our preferred surfactants, as they allow us to formulate skincare products that are well tolerated by the skin.
BTMS is a cationic surfactant. Its positive charge gives it an affinity for keratin and provides its conditioning properties.
Preservation
Store at room temperature away from moisture and light. Close the bag tightly after use.
Precautions
Keep out of reach of children, do not swallow, avoid contact with eyes.
The product may cause slight stinging of the eyes during use: in case of contact with the eyes, rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Not recommended for use in products intended for children.
Dangerous. Follow precautions for use.
Causes serious eye damage. Causes skin irritation (risks associated with the product in its pure form). Suspected risk of serious effects in case of repeated exposure or prolonged exposure in case of ingestion. Very toxic to aquatic organisms.
Environmental qualities and characteristics product sheet
Reference
01294 - BTMS 30 g
Main packaging material
Paper bag
Recyclability
Most packaging can be recycled
Reference
01295 - BTMS 250 g
Main packaging material
Paper bag
Recyclability
Most packaging can be recycled
Supplier documentation
Frequently Asked Questions
Fantastic
The best for DIY cosmetic products and Shampoo & Conditioner. Wide availability of hard-to-find products, fairly fast shipping! Highly recommended. Quality products! Excellent value for money.
Love it too much
I've been using it for years for my hair mask, it's perfect.
It helps detangle frizzy hair, but hair is very soft from the first use, thank you!
