Natural active ingredients best tolerated by sensitive skin

Identifying the active ingredients best suited to sensitive skin first requires defining what is expected of these ingredients. The reactivity of sensitive skin is linked to a weakened skin barrier, whose protective function is impaired, leading to increased water loss (increased transepidermal water loss) and heightened sensitivity to environmental or cosmetic irritants. Physiologically, sensitive skin often exhibits an imbalance in the lipids of the stratum corneum, notably a reduction in ceramides—key components of the protective barrier—which facilitates the entry of irritants and triggers inflammatory responses in the skin (2).

What natural active ingredients can offer

• Strengthen the skin barrier: this is important for limiting transepidermal water loss. Choosing skincare products rich in the skin’s natural components, such as ceramides, helps to protect and restore weakened skin.

• Rebalance and rebuild your skin barrier: as prebiotics and ceramides can do

• Continuously hydrate and nourish the skin: when it comes to hydration, the essential skin component found in many skincare products is hyaluronic acid. To nourish the skin, we turn to plant-based oils that replenish lipids or ceramides

• To provide a feeling of being enveloped: oily textures are often more suitable for this type of need. They soothe the skin

• Reducing the use of known irritants: in order to minimise skin inflammation and potential allergic reactions.

The benefits of a minimalist routine

Those with sensitive skin should also take care to limit the number of products in their skincare routine: reactive skin benefits from minimising the number of products used. Quality takes precedence over quantity here.  The aim is to provide the skin with only what is strictly necessary to protect, moisturise and soothe it, without overloading it with products or potentially irritating ingredients. This consists of gentle cleansing, appropriate moisturising and daily sun protection. Exfoliants, fragrances and multi-step skincare routines increase the risk of skin reactions and are not suitable for sensitive skin.

With a minimalist skincare routine in mind, the active ingredients listed below should not all be used together, to ensure they are well tolerated. They should be selected with the aim of tailoring your skincare routine to your individual needs. It is worth noting that finding this ‘ideal’ routine can sometimes take time, particularly as tolerance to a cosmetic product varies from person to person. However, the active ingredients listed below, due to their beneficial effects on fragile skin, appear to be well tolerated by the majority of people with sensitive skin.

We’ll help you make sense of the range of active ingredients, based on the potential underlying issues affecting your problem skin.

Damage to the skin barrier

This might apply to you if… Your skin feels tight, shows diffuse redness or reacts easily to skincare products. A compromised skin barrier allows irritants to penetrate and perpetuates inflammation (11).

Active ingredients to look for: Active ingredients that support the skin barrier include ceramides, phytosterols, squalane and wild acanthus. They help to restore the skin’s integrity and thus soothe the inflammation caused by a compromised skin barrier.

Imbalance in the skin microbiome

This may apply to you if… your skin is reactive, red or itchy. These signs may indicate a disrupted skin microbiome. 

The active ingredients to look for: prebiotics are the essential solution for rebalancing the skin’s microbiome. Soothing active ingredients such as allantoin or bisabolol also help to regulate the inflammatory process associated with microbial imbalance (11).

Excessive dryness

This may apply to you if… your skin is flaking or cracking. It may feel rough to the touch. A lack of sebum is usually to blame, which can lead to increased permeability of the stratum corneum. 

Active ingredients to look out for: Plant-based oils are ideal, as are squalane, allantoin and bisabolol.

A lack of hydration

This may apply to you if… Your complexion is dull and superficial fine lines caused by dehydration are starting to appear. As the skin is more sensitive, it may also show patches of redness.

Active ingredients to look out for: Hydrating your skin with hyaluronic acid is a good option. Preserving the integrity of the skin’s barrier by maintaining a balanced hydrolipidic film is also important, for example by using ceramides.

Sensitive skin (or reactive skin) is characterised by the occurrence of unpleasant sensations (tingling, burning, itching), with or without redness, triggered by various factors such as contact with water, the cold, cosmetic products or UV rays. Certain ingredients are known to trigger discomfort, foremost among which are surfactants, the use of which should be limited. The use of AHAs such as lactic or glycolic acid should be avoided on this skin type.

Dr Reyhan Amode, dermatologist and member of the Aroma-Zone College of Dermatologists

Active ingredients

Skin Repair Cosmetic Active Ingredient : this concentrated extract of organic wild Acanthus from Auvergne has been proven effective in restoring the skin’s barrier function. When incorporated into your cosmetic formulations, it is a powerful ally for repairing and regenerating irritated or damaged skin, and an excellent active ingredient for dry and mature skin. Dosage: 2 per cent of the total weight of your formulation, in an aqueous solution.

Discover our Skin Repair Cosmetic Active Ingredient

Organic Bisabolol: A compound found in several plants, including chamomile and candeia, alpha-bisabolol is known as a powerful soothing ingredient that is highly effective even at low doses. It is an excellent choice for the care of sensitive and irritated skin. It can be incorporated into your balms, oils and creams. Dosage: 0.05 to 0.5 per cent in your oil-based formulations.

Discover the organic plant-based cosmetic active ingredient Bisabolol

Active ingredient: Allantoin: Allantoin is renowned for its softening and soothing properties. It stimulates skin renewal and regulates the inflammatory process. It is an ingredient of choice for your ‘homemade’ restorative skincare products and formulations for sensitive skin. Concentration: 0.5% in aqueous solutions. For higher concentrations and in oil-based formulations (balms, butters), it should be dispersed throughout the product.

Discover the cosmetic active ingredient Allantoin

Olive-derived plant-based squalane: Extracted from olive oil, plant-based squalane is an oily active ingredient with a silky, non-greasy feel. Its excellent affinity with the skin and its emollient properties help to restore the lipid barrier and protect the skin from dehydration. Concentration: 5–15% in creams and balms, 30–70% in ‘dry’ oils.

Discover the Olive-derived Plant-based Squalane Cosmetic Active Ingredient

Plant-based oils

Organic Italian Elderberry Skincare Oil: This restorative, soothing and nourishing oil is rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids to combat skin ageing. Ideal for sensitive and damaged skin, it can be applied neat or customised with the plant-based active ingredient Bisabolol for a soothing and restorative treatment.

Discover our Organic Italian Elderberry Skincare Oil

Organic Raw Shea Butter: this shea butter protects, softens and restores damaged skin. Rich in phytosterols, alpha and beta amyrin, it helps to calm and soothe tight, irritated skin. It promotes healing thanks to the terpene alcohols (lupeol, parkeol) and phytosterols it contains.

Discover our pure organic shea butter

Organic Coconut Oil: also known as coconut butter, this oil is a highly prized ingredient for its protective, softening and emollient properties on the skin.

Discover Organic Coconut Oil

Ready-to-use formulations

Coconut & Shea Cleansing Cream: Fragrance-free and sulphate-free, this cleansing product respects the skin’s natural pH balance. Its 100% natural formula, enriched with moisturising shea butter, provides a rich, protective cleanse and helps reduce feelings of tightness.

Discover the Organic Coconut & Shea Cleansing Cream

Concentrated Vitamin B12 & Prebiotics Serum: Help your skin regain its calm with this highly tolerable serum. Its proven effectiveness immediately reduces all signs of discomfort (redness, tightness, itching) and supports your skin’s future by restoring its skin barrier. Ideal for sensitive skin.

Discover our Vitamin B12 & Prebiotics Concentrated Serum

Soothing Ceramide & Phytosterol Oil Serum: A nourishing treatment for reactive skin, this silky-textured, high-tolerance oil serum immediately soothes, reduces redness, restores and strengthens the skin barrier, and relieves itching. Ideal for sensitive skin.

Discover our Soothing Ceramide & Phytosterol Oil Serum

Elixir of precious organic fine lavender flowers: this elixir soothes, repairs and nourishes all skin types, even the most delicate. The sprigs of fine lavender have been cold-infused for an extended period in organic jojoba oil, which is what makes this elixir so precious. This treatment offers soothing, balancing and restorative benefits. 

Discover our Organic Fine Lavender Floral Elixir

Organic Roman Chamomile Precious Flower Elixir: immediate softness and comfort for your skin thanks to our serum made with organic sweet almond oil and Roman chamomile flowers – nourishing and soothing, ideal for relieving skin discomfort.

Discover our Organic Roman Chamomile Floral Elixir

Oat & Ceramide NP Lipid-Restoring Balm : clinically tested and proven, designed for dry, fragile or atopic-prone skin, this triple-action lipid-restoring balm soothes irritation and redness, reduces itching and intensely nourishes the skin. 

Discover our Oat & Ceramide NP Lipid-Restoring Balm

Dietary supplements

Probiotic dietary supplement for skin balance & beauty: a formula specially developed to promote healthy skin balance. Thanks to its beneficial effects on the gut microbiota, it acts on the gut-skin axis and helps to improve skin quality. Take one capsule a day, to be swallowed with a glass of water. For adults only. Not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women.

Discover Skin Probiotics

Cosmetics are also recognised as triggers for sensitive skin, so caution is advised. Read the labels carefully and avoid skincare products containing irritants such as fragrances, essential oils, alcohols or certain exfoliating agents (e.g. high concentrations of AHAs/BHAs), which can disrupt the skin barrier and lead to the onset of inflammatory symptoms (9).

Excessive or harsh cleansing is a major factor in aggravating skin sensitivity. Indeed, inappropriate cleansing alters the skin’s natural lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids), which are essential for the integrity of the skin barrier. In practice, it is recommended that you cleanse your skin no more than once or twice a day, use soap-free cleansers with a physiological pH, and avoid water that is too hot.

Emilie is a biochemistry and natural active ingredients engineer, as well as a naturopath, nutrition consultant, and writer specialising in health, food, and well-being. She spent over 10 years working in the pharmaceutical industry and scientific communication, giving her a broad, well-rounded view of health, one she's able to speak about with both rigour and clarity. Science is her foundation, words her tools. She champions an approach to health that's more preventive, more considered, more scientific, and, of course, more natural!