Understanding what causes hair to become brittle helps you choose a more suitable product and avoid accumulating products that offer no real benefit. In most cases, several factors combine: a hair fibre dried out by heat becomes more porous and more vulnerable to everyday friction, which in turn weakens the cuticle.
Dryness is one of the most common causes. When it lacks moisture, the hair fibre loses its suppleness and breaks more easily at the slightest movement. The lengths often become coarse, dull and less resilient. Tensile strength and elasticity are directly affected when the hair shaft is dehydrated (1).
Porosity refers to the hair shaft’s ability to absorb and lose water quickly. Very porous hair absorbs water quickly, but loses it just as quickly. This is common following repeated colouring, bleaching or repeated exposure to heat: the cuticle lifts, cracks and provides less protection for the cortex. In this context, film-forming or nourishing treatments can help to better retain moisture. A treatment based on hyaluronic acid may be suitable for improving the hair’s mechanical properties.
The mechanical stresses of everyday life are often underestimated. However, brushing too vigorously, rubbing a towel along the lengths of the hair, tight hair ties or repeated friction against the pillow create micro-traumas that gradually weaken the hair fibre. In textured hair, this vulnerability is even more pronounced (11).
The heat from styling appliances can also alter the structure of keratin and make the hair more porous, drier and more brittle, especially in the absence of heat protection. Recent research suggests that certain heat-activated compounds may limit some of this damage (9).
Hair colouring and bleaching also weaken the hair fibre by altering its internal structure and increasing its porosity. Onofre et al. (2023) have shown that treatments based on proteins and polysaccharides can help to partially limit this chemical damage (5). Very tight hairstyles and certain chemical straightening treatments can also exacerbate breakage, particularly in textured hair (11, 12).
Limescale in shower water can increase surface roughness by leaving mineral deposits on the hair fibre, although this effect appears to be more moderate than that caused by heat or chemical treatments (3).