Should you exfoliate dry skin?

No, it is perfectly possible to exfoliate dry skin by using a gentle exfoliation technique.

Don’t worry: you can certainly treat yourself to a scrub if you fancy it, even if you have dry skin. It’s natural to have your doubts, as at first glance it doesn’t seem like a very sensible idea to irritate skin that’s already experiencing skin barrier issues.

dry skin is in fact the result of a compromised skin barrier, characterised by a deficiency in intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum and structural abnormalities, which increases water loss through the skin and reduces the skin’s ability to retain moisture.

Xerosis (dry skin) therefore implies a compromised barrier function. However, exfoliation can, in some cases, cause further damage to the stratum corneum and make the skin barrier even more permeable. With less protection, the skin is therefore at risk of becoming dehydrated even more quickly (2).

Nevertheless, the American Academy of Dermatology seeks to reassure the public. It is indeed possible to exfoliate dry skin or sensitised skin, provided you opt for a gentle approach (3) that preserves the skin barrier as much as possible.

Yes, mechanical exfoliants are often considered too harsh for dry skin.

For dry skin, the most important thing isn’t the exfoliation itself, but how it’s carried out. And when it comes to gentleness, the grains in mechanical exfoliants aren’t the best choice. Their repeated rubbing can damage the stratum corneum (4), which is already compromised.

The same applies to mechanical exfoliation techniques without granules, such as brushes or exfoliating sponges. Some experts advise against, for example, dry brushing on eczema-prone skin to avoid aggravating the condition (5).

If you absolutely must use a mechanical method, a damp washcloth seems to be the most suitable option for dry skin (3).

It is recommended that you prioritise skin tolerance when choosing a scrub and exercise moderation when exfoliating.

A permeable skin barrier means a risk of irritation. And it is precisely here that exfoliation can cause problems for dry skin if not carried out correctly. Below are a few precautions you can incorporate into your exfoliation routine to minimise any unpleasant surprises as much as possible. As all skin types are different – even within the broad category of dry skin – we nevertheless advise you to remain attentive to any signs of discomfort your skin might show during exfoliation.

Myth or fact?

Myth. It’s perfectly fine to exfoliate your dry skin if you feel like it. You just need to follow a few simple rules designed to optimise skin comfort both during and after exfoliation.

What’s true

• Dry skin can be more reactive than other skin types during exfoliation

• Exfoliation can worsen the condition of dry skin if it is not well tolerated

• Gentle exfoliation can be suitable for dry skin.

What is false

• Dry skin does not need exfoliating any more than other skin types

• Exfoliating dry skin does not necessarily make it any drier or any less dry

• Chemical exfoliants are not a cure-all for this skin type.

Food for thought

If you have dry skin, removing dead skin cells is neither the only way nor the best way to achieve smoother, softer skin.

There are many misconceptions about exfoliating dry skin. For example, it is often claimed that exfoliation is essential for ridding dry skin of dead skin cells and, in the process, optimising the absorption of subsequent skincare products. Nothing of the sort has yet been proven.

In fact, the scientific literature does not consider exfoliation to be an ‘anti-dryness’ treatment. Although this may seem counter-intuitive given that these products are designed to remove dead skin cells, in reality, it is primarily hydration that helps to tackle flaky skin.

This is precisely the benefit of certain skincare products that manage to improve surface hydration whilst normalising flaking (the main issue with dry, rough skin) (8). And properly hydrated skin is, in fact, skin that flakes less.

How often should you exfoliate dry skin? Which exfoliating ingredients are best suited to dry skin?

It is possible to exfoliate dry skin if it has a ‘hyperkeratotic’ appearance, i.e. a rough or thickened texture. However, mechanical exfoliation should be avoided as it may aggravate the condition or cause inflammation. Mild chemical exfoliants are permitted: lactic acid, urea and low-concentration AHAs. The frequency should be adjusted according to tolerance and results, up to once a day if necessary. 

Dr Reyhan Amode, dermatologist and member of the Aroma-Zone College of Dermatologists

Make your own homemade scrub

Active ingredient: Urea: A key ingredient for dry, very dry or atopic skin, it helps both to retain moisture and to promote the renewal of corneocytes. With excellent skin tolerance, it can be used to formulate an exfoliating cleansing gel, a body cream to combat rough, flaky skin, or a gentle facial lotion. Recommended concentration: 5–10 per cent.

Discover Urea

Lactic acid: Renowned for its remarkable affinity with the skin’s surface, it helps remove dead skin cells and provides additional moisturising benefits, making it ideal for dry skin. It can also be used to lower the pH of your homemade skincare products. Recommended dosage: add drop by drop depending on the desired pH.

Discover lactic acid

Active ingredient: AHA fruit acids: AHAs promote cell renewal and exfoliation to smooth the skin’s texture, restore the complexion’s radiance and minimise the appearance of dark spots and imperfections. They can be used as an active ingredient in DIY cosmetic formulations or simply mixed with a neutral cream or a suitable serum for a quick treatment. Use them at a concentration of 1–5 per cent for regular application, and 5–10 per cent for an occasional exfoliating effect in an aqueous formulation.

Discover the AHA Fruit Acids Active Ingredient

Choose a ready-to-use exfoliating product

Papaya & Vitamin C Enzymatic Cleansing Powder: Both a cleanser and an exfoliator, this grain-free powder gently exfoliates the skin without causing any discomfort or irritation. On contact with water, it transforms into a creamy lather that leaves the skin feeling soft and comfortable. For a deep exfoliation, leave it on for 1 to 3 minutes before rinsing.

Discover the Papaya & Vitamin C Enzymatic Cleansing Powder

Pomegranate Enzyme & Rice Pearl Facial Scrub: It combines enzymatic and mechanical exfoliation in a gel texture infused with protective plant oils. Suitable for all skin types, it has been proven to strengthen the hydrolipid barrier and reduce water loss, whilst leaving the skin visibly nourished, soft and radiant.

Discover the Pomegranate & Rice Pearl Enzyme Facial Scrub

Look after your skin after exfoliating

3.5% Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Serum: This serum boasts one of the highest concentrations of hyaluronic acid on the market, an active ingredient renowned for its moisturising, smoothing and plumping properties. It absorbs instantly without leaving any residue or causing tightness, leaving the skin feeling revitalised.

Discover the 3.5% Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Oat & Ceramide NP Lipid-Restoring Balm: Suitable for use on the face and body, it instantly soothes redness and tightness, reduces itching and restores the skin’s appearance. Its high-tolerance lipid-restoring formula is particularly suitable for dry and sensitive skin.

Discover the Oat & Ceramide NP Lipid-Restoring Balm

Cosmetic treatments, including exfoliants, should only be used on healthy skin. In cases of xerosis, the skin may unfortunately be damaged. If you find yourself in this situation, consult a dermatologist before using any skincare products on your skin.

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice, and guides to help consumers choose the right beauty products. With a strong interest in natural, organic, and clean cosmetics, she analyses and shares trends and innovations in the sector.