What are the best active ingredients for combating dry skin?

Dryness or dehydration?

• Dehydrated skin : this simply lacks water in the outermost layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum). The lipids in the skin barrier are not necessarily affected. Treating dehydration therefore mainly involves the use of humectants. 

• Dry skin: the imbalance stems from a disruption of the skin barrier, leading to increased insensible water loss. Contrary to popular belief, this is not merely a lack of lipids, but also involves genuine lipid abnormalities (disorganisation, changes in composition, etc.) that impair the overall functioning of the barrier (9).

 See also: Dry skin or dehydrated skin: what’s the difference?

What are the key steps to take for dry skin?

Moisturising dry skin involves rehydrating the stratum corneum whilst strengthening the skin barrier.

Dry skin has a more fragile stratum corneum than normal. Very often, it has in fact been damaged by one or more external aggressors, such as the cold or repeated washing with soap. As a result, it struggles to act as a barrier against transepidermal water loss (1).

The best active ingredients for combating dry skin are by no means limited to moisturising agents. Whilst these are certainly beneficial, they merely supply water to the skin’s surface. But if the stratum corneum is no longer able to retain it, moisture evaporates rapidly.  

Caring for dry or very dry skin therefore requires structuring your skincare routine around two complementary mechanisms: restoring hydration to the stratum corneum and repairing the skin barrier (2), (9). Moisturising creams already contain the main groups of active ingredients needed to achieve this.  

A moisturiser formulated with humectants, emollients and occlusives is the most comprehensive option for caring for dry skin.

Moisturisers, which by their very nature combine an oil phase and a water phase, are in theory the most comprehensive products for moisturising and nourish dry skin. They contain active ingredients that help to moisturise the stratum corneum whilst limiting skin dehydration, thanks to a combination of humectants, emollient active ingredients—including certain physiological lipids—and occlusive ingredients, which are more suitable than simple film-forming agents.

The drier the skin, the more beneficial it is to choose a cream that provides good coverage, i.e. one rich in lipids. Most creams are based on an oil-in-water formulation, but in cases of severe dryness, it is the water-in-oil formulation that dermatologists most often recommend (3). These creams are thicker, richer and more protective, with a texture similar to that of an ointment.

Urea holds a special place amongst the best active ingredients for combating dry skin.

There is no such thing as a ‘miracle’ active ingredient. Some are well documented for their benefits on dry skin, but their mere presence in a cream is not enough to guarantee its effectiveness against dry skin. Research into xerosis emphasises that it is more important to focus on the overall quality of the formulation (4). In particular, it is preferable to seek out several active ingredients with complementary biophysical properties rather than a single, isolated active ingredient (5). Finally, it is worth noting that a 2016 study concluded that the regularity of application of a moisturiser has a greater impact than its formulation on improving the overall appearance of dry skin (10).

The choice of the best active ingredients for combating dry skin varies depending on each individual’s skin type. Whilst ‘classic’ dryness manifests as that characteristic tightness, some dry skin types also experience unpleasant tingling or abnormal flaking. It is therefore essential to listen to your skin in order to provide it with the right care.

Dry, tight skin

This might apply to you if… Your skin quickly becomes uncomfortable again after applying your usual moisturisers. It almost always feels tight when you rinse off your cleansers and seems to ‘drink up’ its moisturisers without ever getting enough. This is classic skin dryness, with no significant complications.

Active ingredients to look out for: humectants (urea, glycerine) combined with occlusive agents (plant oils suitable for dry skin) to rehydrate the stratum corneum and minimise insensible water loss. Pro-barrier lipids such as ceramides are a useful addition to strengthen the skin’s barrier function.

Dry, flaky skin

 This may apply to you if… Your skin appears thicker and feels rough to the touch. You can feel small flakes of dead skin that seem to cling to the surface of your skin. This condition is known as hyperkeratosis, an excessive build-up of keratinised cells that sometimes affects dry to very dry skin.

Active ingredients to look out for: primarily urea, used at a concentration high enough to deliver its keratolytic effects. You could also try lactic acid, provided you check beforehand that your skin tolerates it well. Dry skin, which is thinner and less well protected by its barrier, can sometimes react to active ingredients in cosmetics.    

Dry, tingling skin

 This might apply to you if… Your skin seems to react to every skincare product you use, including formulas it previously tolerated. It expresses its discomfort through a stinging or burning sensation upon contact with the product. This means your skin barrier is probably severely damaged: in severe cases, it’s best to consult a doctor.

Active ingredients to look out for: glycerine and ceramides, which have the advantage of being beneficial for dry skin whilst generally being well tolerated. Panthenol is also an excellent active ingredient due to its soothing properties. In all cases, adopt a minimalist approach, both in terms of layering active ingredients and the number of skincare products you apply, to avoid further weakening your skin barrier.

Our cosmetic active ingredients

Urea

Its remarkable combination of moisturising and exfoliating properties improves the skin’s ability to retain moisture whilst smoothing the skin’s surface, which is often flaky when dry. Incorporate it into your recipes for hydrating creams, softening treatments and smoothing lotions. Recommended dosage: 1–5 per cent of the total weight of your formulation for a simple moisturising effect, and 5–10 per cent to benefit from its moisturising and keratolytic properties.

Discover the Urea Active Ingredient

Intense Hydration Active Complex

It offers an immediate and long-lasting moisturising effect thanks to its biomimetic profile, which replicates the natural moisturising factor (NMF) of the stratum corneum. Use it as an active ingredient in your winter skincare products, after-sun formulas or foaming cleansers to counteract the drying effect of cleansing with water and certain surfactants. Recommended dosage: 1–3% of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the Intense Hydration Active Complex

Active ingredient: Plant-based ceramides

This is an essential lipid-replenishing agent for dry skin care, capable of strengthening the integrity of the lipid barrier whilst simultaneously reducing insensible water loss. It is ideal for formulating a protective ‘cold cream’-style moisturiser or a restorative face and body cream. Recommended dosage: 1–5 per cent of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the Active Ingredient: Plant-based Ceramides

Provitamin B5 (Panthenol)

Traditionally recommended for sensitive, damaged or uncomfortable skin, it prevents skin dehydration whilst supporting the skin’s natural repair processes. Use it, for example, in your homemade soothing creams or emulsions for dry feet. Recommended dosage: 2–5 per cent of the total weight of your formulation.

Active ingredient: Provitamin B5 (Panthenol)

Our natural extracts

Oat Oil

This plant-based oil is unique in that it is a natural source of ceramides and phospholipids, which makes it highly compatible with the skin’s surface. It leaves the skin more supple and softer whilst delaying the appearance of signs of ageing.

Discover Oat Oil

Wheat Germ Oil

Highly emollient, it envelops the skin in a cocoon-like sensation with a velvety feel. Its thick consistency is particularly suitable for flaky, rough, damaged and irritated skin. Its gentle, cereal-like scent adds a touch of indulgence to your skincare routine.

Discover Wheat Germ Oil

Organic Camelina Oil

Traditionally recommended for dry, mature and sensitive skin, it has dual regenerative and restorative properties. Rich in omega-3, it helps to soothe the discomfort often associated with dry skin.

Discover Organic Camelina Oil

Dry skin can sometimes mask deeper imbalances that are better addressed by medical professionals rather than through cosmetic treatments. If your skin is very dry, painful, cracked, red or severely itchy, it is best to consult a dermatologist.

Now that you’ve found the best ingredients to combat dry skin, make sure to avoid any routine habits that might further strip your skin of its natural oils. Rinse all your cleansers thoroughly and pat your skin dry straight away with a soft towel. Always protect your skin when going out in cold or windy weather. Use humidifiers indoors to minimise the damaging effects of dry air, particularly during the winter months (2).

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice and guides to help consumers choose the right products. With a strong interest in natural, organic and clean cosmetics, she always has an eye on trends and innovations in the sector, which she likes to analyse and share.