My hair has dry ends: what should I do?

If you have long hair, you will know the feeling of dreading dry ends and their consequences: the infamous split ends. The longer your hair is, the more likely it is that the sebum produced by your scalp will struggle to reach the ends. The ends are therefore the last part of the hair to receive this natural nourishment, if indeed those precious little drops of oil manage to reach them at all. And hair that isn’t sufficiently moisturised is hair that eventually dries out. Textured hair (whether curly, wavy, or kinky) can be particularly impacted. In this case, it is the helical shape of the hair that is to blame. Structurally speaking, the cuticle scales tend to stand on end with every twist of the curl, leaving the cortex directly exposed to external damage. In other words: the tighter your curl, the more points of twist it has, and the drier it will naturally be. Texture also affects sebum flow, as the sebum struggles to follow the hair’s curves and properly coat the cuticle right down to the tip.  

Read also: our natural solutions for dry, curly hair.

Good to know: these hair types are the most prone to dryness at the ends, but this isn't just a problem for those with texture! In fact, every hair type tends to have drier ends… and that’s perfectly normal. We explain why below.

It is perfectly natural for your hair to have drier ends.

The ends: the tips of the hair

This is because your ends are the ‘oldest’ parts of your hair – the parts that have suffered the most wear and tear since the hair began to grow (remember that your hair grows from the root, not the tip). When you consider that a single hair can remain attached to your scalp for an average of four years, you can imagine the damage it sustains throughout its lifetime. In practical terms, the closer you get to your ends, the more likely your hair is to be dry. As a result of constant exposure to damage, the cuticle gradually thins along the entire length of the hair. This means that your ends are now barely covered by this precious protective layer. They are therefore more porous, which creates the perfect conditions for split ends to develop.

The wrong hair care routine

Hair with dry ends can also be the result of a poorly-chosen hair care routine. Simply rubbing shampoo into the lengths of your hair (instead of applying it only to the roots) can damage them and cause them to dry out more quickly. The same applies to heat-styling tools, which exacerbate the porosity and natural dryness of the ends.

A word from the Tricologist

'The ends are the oldest part of the hair shaft. A 30 cm strand of hair has generally been exposed for 2 to 3 years to factors that cause wear and tear: UV rays, oxidation, mechanical friction, repeated brushing, heat styling tools, etc. ¹

Over time, the cuticle, which acts as a protective barrier, undergoes measurable structural loss:

• Up to 6 to 8 layers of the cuticle at the root, compared with sometimes no more than 2 or 3 at the tip. ²

• A progressive loss of lipids: the content of free fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol can drop by 25 to 40 per cent between the root and the tip. ³

This deterioration leads to:

• increased porosity,

• a loss of cuticle cohesion (risk of split ends),

• and a significant reduction in mechanical strength (the hair becomes more brittle, especially when wet).

Tensile measurements have shown that the ends can exhibit a reduction of more than 40 per cent elasticity in the modulus compared with the proximal section. ⁴

My advice as a trichologist: 10 to 20 minutes before shampooing, moisturise the ends with humectants (glycerine, aloe vera, panthenol) to reduce intracortical water loss and protect the cuticle during shampooing.'

Dr Dalila Belmokhtar @dalilapharmacien, Doctor of Pharmacy & Trichologist

• Your ends are unruly. You find them difficult to style; they tend to stick out or frizz. In severe cases, it’s very difficult to restore a smooth appearance.

• Your hair is coarse. Dry ends tend to catch on every little bump on the skin rather than gliding smoothly against your hand. They also look very dull.

• You have split ends. This is a more advanced stage than dry ends. The tip of the hair is so damaged that it eventually breaks or splits into two parts.

• Your hair ends look thinner. This may be a sign that your ends have already broken off several times without you realising it.

Read also: 6 tips for repairing damaged hair from roots to ends

Moisturise thoroughly with active ingredients to incorporate into your hair care routine

Silk protein

Silk proteins are an excellent hair care ingredient thanks to their coating and smoothing properties. They leave hair soft and shiny and help maintain its natural moisture. They are therefore ideal as an active ingredient in your shampoos and styling products. 

Discover the Silk Protein Active Ingredient

Hydrolysed rice protein

To strengthen your damaged hair. Weakened hair with split ends needs proteins to strengthen its structure. These plant-based proteins combine fortifying and volumising effects. They improve the hair’s hydration while coating the hair fibre. The result: stronger, more manageable hair. Dosage: 0.5 to 5 per cent (of the total weight of your formulation).

Discover the hydrolysed rice protein active ingredient

Deep nourishment

Nourishing your dry ends means providing them with lipids. Using plant-based oils and butters helps to replace the sebum that is often lacking at the ends. The nourishing and lipid-replenishing active ingredients help to smooth the hair cuticles and seal the cuticle layer. This protects the hair from external elements and prevents further damage.

Organic Mango Plant Butter

Ideal for coarse hair. This plant-based butter is a must-have for making nourishing and restorative hair masks for long, dull and damaged hair, particularly at the ends. It improves the cohesion of the cuticle scales, softens the hair fibre and prevents split ends.

Discover Organic Mango Plant Butter.

Organic Broccoli Vegetable Oil

Ideal for curly hair. It’s a fantastic plant-based oil for treating brittle and split ends. It coats the hair without weighing it down, thanks to its conditioning effect, which is comparable to that of silicones. You can use it to make an oil-based anti-split-ends serum or even a smoothing treatment for frizz.

Discover Organic Broccoli Vegetable Oil

Organic Moringa Plant Oil

Ideal for curly or frizzy hair. It is particularly rich in behenic acid, a substance that protects dry hair ends. It is known to strengthen the hair fibre from root to tip and reduce the risk of breakage. Use it to make a repairing serum, a leave-in conditioner or an oil treatment.

Discover Organic Moringa Vegetable Oil

1. Un pre-shampoo oil treatment: once or twice a week for deep nourishment; the trick is to apply a small amount to the lengths and ends, then leave it on for 30 minutes. Use a nourishing oil such as Shea oil – Oléine

2. Gentle washing: apply the shampoo to the scalp rather than the ends, and use a neutral cleansing base.

3. A moisturising mask: Once or twice a week, apply a nourishing mask, incorporating a nourishing active ingredient to boost hydration and protect the hair fibre.

4. Seal in the moisture: with a keratin-rich serum, ideal for all hair types. Your mid-lengths and ends will be repaired, leaving your hair stronger and shinier.

1. Trim the ends regularly every 2 to 3 months by a few millimetres to remove any early signs of split ends 

2. Avoid heat damage, such as using a hairdryer on the ends or straightening or curling irons. Always apply a heat-protectant spray before using any heat styling tools. 

3. Avoid rubbing the ends; focus on washing the scalp

4. Gently pat your hair dry with a microfibre towel rather than rubbing it.

5. Detangle your hair with a soft brush or a wide-toothed comb, working from the ends towards the roots.

6. Protect your hair from the sun, chlorine or salt with suitable oils (raspberry oil or karanja oil).

7. Follow a diet rich in B vitamins and omega-3, which are essential for hair health.

Would you like to look after your hair ends with DIY recipes? We recommend that you follow the recommended measurements and instructions for use set out in our recipe guides. Once you’ve made your product, take the time to test it on a small, hidden patch of skin to check for any sensitivity to the formula. If there’s no adverse skin reaction within 48 hours, you can apply it to your scalp and the lengths of your hair.

Dry, damaged hair ends cannot strictly speaking be ‘repaired’, as hair is dead matter. If your split ends are causing you trouble or have become a little too noticeable for your liking, the only thing to do is cut them off. You’ll also regain a little more volume and a more dynamic bounce, whether your hair is straight or curly.

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice, and guides to help consumers choose the right beauty products. With a strong interest in natural, organic, and clean cosmetics, she analyses and shares trends and innovations in the sector.