Which natural active ingredients are actually effective at maintaining a radiant complexion?

Far from being an isolated aesthetic factor, skin radiance depends on several structural and biological factors. Dermatological studies show that radiant skin combines strong specular reflection (the skin’s surface reflects light effectively) with good light diffusion (light travels harmoniously through the lower layers of the epidermis and into the dermis before being reflected back to the skin’s surface) (1).

This subtle balance between reflection and diffusion stems from several factors:

1. The quality of the skin’s micro-relief: the finer and more even the skin texture, the more the skin’s surface reflects light

2. The evenness of the complexion: the absence of brown or white patches enhances the perceived radiance

3. Skin hydration: the water present in the tissues alters the refractive indices of light, hence its key role in optical transparency and light diffusion

4. The quality of the dermis: the denser the collagen fibres, the more organised the dermal structure and the more effectively light is diffused towards the surface (2)

5. The distribution of radiance: evenly distributed sebum (without localised excess, particularly in the T-zone) gives the face a more youthful and radiant appearance (3)

6. Vascular function: skin that receives sufficient oxygen and nutrients via microcirculation has a more ‘vibrant’ and radiant complexion.

All natural active ingredients that are truly capable of maintaining the skin’s natural radiance are those that can improve these six factors.

Key takeaway: the most effective natural active ingredients for maintaining a radiant complexion are those capable of acting on the various factors that influence the optical reflection and diffusion of light within the skin.

The most important thing for establishing an effective skincare routine is to choose the active ingredients best suited to your current needs, or even to combine them to achieve a personalised solution for your skin type. The table below lists the main natural active ingredients that can help maintain your skin’s radiance, explained in terms of how they work to enhance skin radiance.

Good to know : the inclusion of ingredients with anti-ageing and protective properties, particularly antioxidants, is crucial for preserving your complexion’s radiance. Indeed, oxidative stress and free radicals generated by environmental aggressors indirectly affect all the factors mentioned above. For example, it has been proven that UV rays cause premature degradation of collagen fibres and accelerate the appearance of dark spots (4): two factors that can dull your complexion. Smoking and pollution also have a documented impact on skin ageing and loss of radiance (5). Sun protection is also essential for maintaining a radiant complexion all year round, not just in summer.

Dry skin

This might apply to you if… You experience almost constant discomfort (a burning, stinging, irritated or tight sensation). Visually, your skin is thin and marked by numerous wrinkles and fine lines, giving it a crinkled, parchment-like appearance. It tends to flake, making it look dull, whitish and uneven. The easiest sign to spot: if you can’t see any enlarged pores on your face, then you probably have dry skin.

Active ingredients to look for: humectants and moisturising ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or aloe vera. Always layer a light oil on top (preferably plant-based oils rich in carotenoids: carrot, tomato, buriti, etc.) to strengthen the lipid barrier and limit insensible water loss. When it comes to exfoliation, opt for gentle AHAs such as lactic acid, which provide gentle exfoliation whilst helping to maintain the skin’s moisture levels.

Combination to oily skin

This might apply to you if… You notice enlarged pores and a shiny appearance on your face, particularly in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin). You may also have blemishes, such as blackheads or whiteheads. The oiliest skin often lacks radiance, as excess sebum increases reflection but reduces diffusion into the deeper layers. This is why it tends to look shiny rather than luminous.

Active ingredients to look out for: niacinamide is an excellent choice, as it combines sebum-regulating, smoothing, skin-evening and soothing properties. For your weekly exfoliation, opt for enzyme-based exfoliants rather than granular (mechanical) ones. As they are gentler, they are better suited to red blemishes and will minimise the rebound effect (excess sebum produced in response to skin irritation).

Sensitive skin

This might apply to you if… Your skin seems more reactive than usual, suddenly intolerant of skincare products it previously tolerated easily. This is a sign that its skin barrier is compromised, leading to a loss of cohesion in the stratum corneum and greater difficulty in reflecting light. Sensitive skin also displays characteristic redness that disrupts the evenness of the complexion and prevents it from looking truly radiant.

Active ingredients to look for: plant-based or natural antioxidants are a priority, as sensitive skin is less well protected against oxidative stress. Rather than pure vitamin C, which can sometimes be too strong for certain skin types, opt for vitamin C derivatives, which are known to be gentler and more stable. Also consider liquorice extract for its anti-redness properties, niacinamide for its versatile benefits, and enzymes to exfoliate your skin whilst respecting its delicate surface.

A word from the dermatologist

"A radiant complexion is a subjective assessment. It implies: an even complexion free from blemishes, the absence of surface irregularities, and a dewy appearance without excess shine. Several factors therefore need to be taken into account. Depending on the case, active ingredients may be used:

• Those that reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation, such as vitamin C, niacinamide and tyrosinase inhibitors such as glabridin

• Exfoliants such as AHAs, salicylic acid and azelaic acid

• Sebum-regulating agents: azelaic acid, zinc or niacinamide.

Dry skin can regain its radiance through the application of an oil-based serum or a non-comedogenic plant-based oil. It should be noted that giving up smoking alone leads to a marked overall improvement."

Dr Reyhan Amode, dermatologist and member of the Aroma-Zone College of Dermatologists

Need an instant radiance boost? These serum pearls boost skin radiance by 30% from the very first application*. Perfect for an evening out or a special occasion, they can be mixed with a little water directly in the palm of your hand, transforming into a lightly gelled serum ready to apply. Recommended dosage: 1 pearl + 7 drops of water OR 7 drops of Hordatine & Licorice Extract Anti-Dark Spot Serum.

*Clinical assessment carried out on 36 volunteers immediately after application.

Do not use more than one pearl per application and per day. Dilute the pearl thoroughly in a few drops of water or facial serum. Avoid contact with the eyes. In case of contact with the eyes, rinse immediately with clean water.

Our active ingredients for creating your personalised skincare products

Ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C)

A powerful antioxidant and anti-ageing agent, it combats dark spots, a dull complexion and uneven skin tone, whilst boosting collagen synthesis for firmer, more radiant-looking skin. 100% pure product. For easy, everyday use, you can mix it directly in the palm of your hand with our Neutral Youth Cream, our Neutral Hydrating Cream or our Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Serum. Recommended dosage: 1 spoonful (0.05 mL) mixed with 3 pumps of cream or serum.

Discover the active ingredient ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C)

Niacinamide

It improves the overall appearance of the skin by regulating sebum production, reducing the appearance of dark spots, soothing redness and supporting skin microcirculation. It thus promotes a more even complexion and radiant skin. A 100% pure product to be incorporated at a concentration of 1–7% into your formulations. For easy everyday use, you can mix it directly in the palm of your hand with our Neutral Youth Cream, our Neutral Hydrating Cream or our Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Serum. Recommended dosage: 1 spoonful (0.05 mL) mixed with 3 pumps of cream or serum.

Discover the active ingredient niacinamide

Fat-soluble hyaluronic acid cosmetic active ingredient

Renowned for its plumping and anti-wrinkle properties, it evens out the complexion, regulates sebum production, reduces redness and strengthens the skin’s barrier function. Ideal for formulating serums, creams or skincare oils that reveal the skin’s radiance. 100% natural, vegan, sourced from Europe. Recommended dosage: 1 per cent of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the fat-soluble hyaluronic acid cosmetic active ingredient

AHA (fruit acids)

As well as their ‘exfoliating’ effect, which helps to stimulate cell renewal and even out the complexion, they improve hydration of the skin’s surface and stimulate collagen synthesis. 100 per cent plant-based. Incorporate them into your homemade recipes at a concentration of 1–5 per cent for regular use, or 5–10 per cent for an occasional exfoliating effect. Another option: use it as an active ingredient as part of our ‘MIX – APPLY’ beauty routine: in the palm of your hand, mix 3 pumps of our Neutral Youth Cream, our Neutral Hydrating Cream or our Hyaluronic Acid Serum with a 0.05 mL spoonful of AHA active ingredient.

Discover the AHA Active Ingredient (fruit acids)

Organic Carrot CO₂ Extract

Renowned for its natural content of antioxidant carotenoids, it protects the skin’s health against environmental stressors whilst giving the complexion a lovely sun-kissed glow. Certified organic product, sourced from Europe. Recommended dosage for use in your homemade skincare recipes: 0.5 to 5 per cent of the total weight of your preparation.

Discover the Organic Carrot CO₂ Extract

Liquorice powder

A source of flavonoids, notably glabrene and isoliquiritigenin, it is traditionally recommended for its brightening and antioxidant properties. It is also a natural ally for soothing sensitive skin prone to itching. 100% pure and natural powder. Recommended dosage: 2–5% of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover Liquorice Powder

Concentrated Radiance & Brightening Active

The comprehensive anti-ageing treatment to boost the skin’s radiance. Derived from Dahurian larch wood, it is said to be more effective and better tolerated than arbutin at inhibiting melanin synthesis and brightening the complexion. Its anti-dark spot action is combined with powerful antioxidant properties that prevent the signs of photoageing, as well as pro-collagen and soothing properties. Recommended dosage: 1–3 per cent of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the Radiance & Light Concentrated Active Ingredient

Organic Aloe vera Powder Active Ingredient

Concentrated 200 times, it contains all the moisturising, soothing, astringent, skin-evening and regenerating benefits attributed to aloe vera. It can be easily rehydrated for use as an active ingredient in the aqueous phase of your homemade cosmetics. A 100% pure and natural product, certified organic. Recommended dosage: 0.1 to 0.5 per cent of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the Organic Aloe vera Powder Active Ingredient

Natural enzymes

Ideal for formulating a grain-free exfoliating treatment for dull or problem skin, they are renowned for providing gentle exfoliation that helps remove dead skin cells and sebum. The result: more radiant, softer and rebalanced skin. 100% natural product. Recommended dosage: 2–4% of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the Natural Enzymes Active Ingredient

Our ready-to-use formulations

Good to know: as vitamin C is considered a must-have amongst natural active ingredients for maintaining a radiant complexion, it naturally features at the heart of several of the formulations below. To protect your skin barrier, we recommend using only one vitamin C product at a time. Enzyme powder, brightening serum or moisturiser: choose your vitamin C product based on your personal preferences.

Papaya & Vitamin C Enzymatic Cleansing Powder

Serving as both a cleanser and an exfoliator, it combines exfoliating enzymes with antioxidant vitamin C and soothing rice powder for a smoothing, refining and deep-cleansing effect. Its powder texture transforms into a creamy lather on contact with water, providing a gentle exfoliation that is so mild it is even suitable for daily use. Dermatologically tested formula, suitable for sensitive skin, 100% naturally derived ingredients, certified organic, vegan, made in France.

Discover the Papaya & Vitamin C Enzymatic Cleansing Powder

5% Niacinamide, Zinc & Hyaluronic Acid Toner

Proven effectiveness: it leaves the complexion more even, fresher and the skin feeling toned. Its complex of dermocosmetic active ingredients targets several types of imperfections (redness, enlarged pores, shine, dark spots and blackheads) for an overall flawless complexion. Dermatologically tested formula, suitable for sensitive skin, vegan, made in France.

Discover the 5% Niacinamide, Zinc & Hyaluronic Acid Toner

3.5% Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Highly concentrated, it provides long-lasting hydration that helps to smooth the skin’s surface. 85 per cent of users find that it leaves their skin radiant and glowing (satisfaction rate, test carried out in a laboratory under dermatological supervision over 28 days on a panel of 20 volunteers, 10 of whom had sensitive skin). Its fresh, naturally gel-like texture absorbs quickly and provides a pleasant feeling of comfort. Dermatologically tested formula, 100% naturally derived ingredients, vegan, made in France.

Discover the 3.5% Hyaluronic Acid Concentrated Serum

10% Glycolic Acid & AHA Concentrated Serum

Proven effectiveness: it leaves the skin looking more radiant, refines the skin’s texture, minimises the appearance of enlarged pores and reduces the appearance of dark spots. It’s the ideal ‘exfoliating’ treatment for gently revealing ‘new skin’, with a silky texture that leaves no greasy residue. Use only in the evening and follow with sun protection the next morning. Dermatologically tested, vegan, made in France.

Discover the 10% Glycolic Acid & AHA Concentrated Serum

Hordatine & Liquorice Extract Anti-Dark Spot Serum

Proven efficacy: reduces pigmentation irregularities, lightens dark spots and evens out the complexion, whilst providing additional anti-wrinkle benefits. Designed primarily for mature skin, its complex of brightening active ingredients, including 5% niacinamide, targets redness and hyperpigmentation and helps to brighten the complexion. Formula suitable for sensitive skin, vegan, made in France.

Discover the Hordatine & Liquorice Extract Anti-Dark Spot Serum

10% Vitamin C & Astaxanthin Concentrated Serum

Proven efficacy: it boosts the skin’s natural radiance, brightens the complexion and reduces the appearance of dark spots whilst smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles. It combines vitamin C with astaxanthin, a natural carotenoid, to offer comprehensive antioxidant protection alongside anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle benefits. A gentle, non-greasy texture with a moisturising and plumping base of hyaluronic acid. Dermatologically tested formula, 100% naturally derived ingredients, vegan, made in France.

Discover the 10% Vitamin C & Astaxanthin Concentrated Serum

Vitamin C & Glabridine Anti-Dark Spot Oil Serum

Proven effectiveness: it provides immediate hydration and gradually improves the skin’s radiance, evens out the complexion and enhances skin suppleness. What makes it stand out: a comprehensive anti-dark spot action based on three powerful antioxidant active ingredients combined in a fine, silky-textured oil for a unique sensory experience. Can be used in three ways: as a replacement for your moisturiser, as a serum applied under your moisturiser, or as a booster to mix with your usual serum (2 drops of oil serum in a daily dose of serum, followed by a moisturiser if desired). Dermatologically tested formula, suitable for sensitive skin, 100% naturally derived ingredients, vegan, made in France.

Discover the Vitamin C & Glabridine Anti-Dark Spot Oleosérum

Organic Vitamin C & Astaxanthin Cream

Proven effectiveness: the skin is twice as radiant, with a healthier and more rested appearance. Its antioxidant duo (astaxanthin + vitamin C) combines with maté extract to support skin oxygenation. Ideal for preserving the radiance of skin exposed to pollution, UV rays or tobacco, its naturally tinted texture gives the complexion a fresh, luminous and revitalised appearance. Formula suitable for sensitive skin, 100% naturally derived ingredients, certified organic, vegan, made in France.

Discover the Organic Vitamin C & Astaxanthin Cream

Organic Tomato de Provence Skincare Oil

Packed with carotenoids and lycopene – powerful antioxidants – it brightens the complexion, giving it a healthy glow. It is particularly suitable for dull and tired complexions, as well as for mature or dehydrated skin. Highly recommended for preserving the complexion’s radiance after sun exposure; use on its own or over your moisturiser. 100% natural ingredients, certified organic, made in France.

Discover the Organic Tomato de Provence Skincare Oil

Achieving a radiant, even complexion involves regularly using exfoliating products to smooth the skin’s micro-texture and even out the complexion. Remember to carry out a sensitivity test before using a product for the first time. Stop using the product immediately if your skin appears to react negatively (discomfort, redness, a burning or stinging sensation, etc.) to the formula being tested. Try not to exceed two exfoliation sessions per week, adjusting this frequency to suit your skin’s sensitivity, in order to preserve the integrity of your skin’s protective barrier. We also recommend applying sun protection to your face the day after exfoliating.

The skin’s natural radiance undergoes slight fluctuations with the changing seasons. To maintain your complexion’s radiance all year round, be flexible with your skincare routine. In winter, for example, swap your moisturising serum for a richer cream to prevent dehydration, which often leads to a dull complexion. In summer, swap your usual serum for a dark spot-correcting serum or an antioxidant serum to minimise the appearance of pigmentation irregularities.

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice, and guides to help consumers choose the right beauty products. With a strong interest in natural, organic, and clean cosmetics, she analyses and shares trends and innovations in the sector.