What mistakes should you avoid in your ‘glow’ routine?

Among the most common practices, certain ones crop up time and again among people concerned about a lack of radiance in their complexion.

Choosing or layering skincare products that are unsuitable for your skin type (dry, combination, oily, sensitive, or seasonally changing) can disrupt sebum production and hydration, damage the skin barrier and result in an uneven surface and a dull complexion.

A build-up of products tends to clog the pores and disrupt the hydrolipidic film, leading to dehydration which causes a greyish complexion. As the skin has a limited capacity to absorb and tolerate certain active ingredients such as vitamin C, layering vitamin C-concentrated skincare products can cause irritation.

An abrupt change to your skincare routine can cause irritation and weaken the skin barrier, particularly as active ingredients that promote radiance (vitamin C, niacinamide, mild AHAs, etc.) require regular use to have an effect on pigmentation, collagen and cell renewal.

Another common mistake is over-exfoliation or the use of unsuitable exfoliants, practices which can weaken the skin barrier and reduce radiance.

Neglecting cleansing (single or double) can prevent active ingredients from penetrating the skin properly and, as a result, dull the complexion’s radiance.

Skipping the moisturising step can affect the skin’s firmness, suppleness and radiance.

Failing to adapt your skincare routine when the seasons change or your environment changes can lead to imbalances and an uneven complexion. 

Failing to use sun protection, even in winter, can promote skin oxidation and lead to the appearance of pigmentation spots and a loss of radiance.

Applying skincare products in the wrong order or too quickly, without massaging them in, can reduce their effectiveness and hinder the microcirculation that contributes to a radiant complexion.

Finally, a lack of a healthy lifestyle (a balanced diet, sleep, regular physical activity) can, in the long term, lead to inflammation and skin ageing.

You may be making these mistakes if…

• Your complexion lacks evenness

• Your skin has pigmentation spots or diffuse redness

• Results vary significantly from one period to the next

• Light seems to be absorbed by dry areas or reflected with a shine by oily areas

Radiant skin is the result of a precise cellular balance: management of oxidative stress , integrity of the skin microbiome, hydration of the epidermis, lipid homeostasis and sun protection (5). A lack of photoprotection (using a suncare product with an SPF of at least 30) leaves the skin vulnerable to UV rays, which increase reactive oxygen species (ROS) and break down collagen and elastin, resulting in a dull complexion (1).

Generally speaking, a lack of hydration, the inappropriate or excessive use of exfoliants, and a lack of sun protection disrupt the skin barrier by altering the lipid cement and increasing insensible water loss, thereby reducing the skin’s ability to reflect light (5).

Chronic oxidative stress tends to increase inflammation, oxidation and microcirculatory disorders, affecting the quality of the skin’s surface and micro-inflammation, which can result in rough skin, diffuse redness, pigmentation spots, a loss of evenness, wrinkles, a loss of firmness and, ultimately, a reduction in the complexion’s radiance and apparent vitality. This phenomenon includes pollution, UV exposure, smoking, alcohol, stress, lack of sleep and a diet low in fruit and vegetables (2, 3, 5, 7).

When it comes to a radiant complexion, a suitable skincare routine is based on several key elements: gentle cleansing, moisturising, revitalisation and protection.

1. Removing dead skin cells with a gentle (chemical) exfoliant promotes skin regeneration. It smooths the skin’s texture, removes dead skin cells and evens out the reflection and diffusion of light, making the skin visibly more radiant.

2. Hydration strengthens the skin barrier and helps the skin reflect light. The use of a humectant such as hyaluronic acid can optimise the skin’s translucency and suppleness.

3. The addition of antioxidant active ingredients such as AHAs/BHAs or vitamin C improves the skin’s micro-relief, hydration and reflectance (the proportion of light reflected by the skin), resulting in a more even and luminous complexion.

4. A facial massage after applying a skincare product can help stimulate blood microcirculation, thereby improving drainage, increasing the supply of oxygen and nutrients, and resulting in a more even complexion.

5. Sun protection, in both summer and winter, helps to limit oxidative stress and premature ageing of the skin. Certain mineral filters, such as zinc oxide, provide UV protection whilst diffusing light, giving the skin a glow.

Key points to remember for a healthy skincare routine

• Radiant skin is the result of a smooth, well-hydrated and non-inflamed complexion. 

• Skin that has been thoroughly cleansed and gently exfoliated will be better able to absorb antioxidant active ingredients such as vitamin C.

• Good moisturising, tailored to your skin type, promotes a radiant complexion.

• Sun protection is essential all year round.

• The glow depends on the skin’s overall health.

In addition to a suitable skincare routine, there are some specific tips from our team of dermatologists that are worth bearing in mind.

" A common mistake I see in my practice when it comes to achieving a radiant complexion? Many patients suffer from irritation caused by using a retinoid too frequently. Applying it two to three evenings a week, combined with moisturising in the morning, is often well tolerated."

Dr Reyhan Amode, dermatologist and member of the Aroma-Zone College of Dermatologists

To help achieve a radiant complexion, there are several types of skincare treatments to consider, depending on your skin’s needs:

Step 1: Cleanse and exfoliate gently

Pomegranate Enzyme & Rice Pearl Facial Scrub

This face scrub, with its milky gel texture, works in two ways to leave your complexion clear and refined: gentle enzymatic exfoliation using pomegranate enzymes to lift away dead skin cells without rubbing, and mechanical exfoliation using rice pearls to unclog pores.

Discover the Pomegranate Enzyme & Rice Pearl Facial Scrub

Papaya & Vitamin C Enzymatic Cleansing Powder

This facial cleanser foams on contact with water; massage it into the face to unclog pores and refine skin texture thanks to a grain-free enzymatic exfoliation that is gentle on sensitive skin. The bonus? Its high concentration of vitamin C, which boosts radiance and evens out the complexion.

Discover the Papaya & Vitamin C Enzymatic Cleansing Powder

10% Glycolic Acid & AHA Concentrated Serum

The exfoliating effect of this serum, enriched with glycolic acid and AHA fruit acids (an active ingredient known to boost the skin’s radiance), removes dead skin cells and stimulates skin renewal for a radiant, even complexion. It specifically targets skin imperfections caused by sun exposure, smoking or premature ageing. It should be used as a 3-week treatment, applied in the evening, remembering to apply sun protection the following morning.

Discover the 10% Glycolic Acid & AHA Concentrated Serum

Step 2: incorporate antioxidants

It is advisable not to layer several vitamin C-based products and to choose one from those listed below:

10% Concentrated Vitamin C & Astaxanthin Serum

In this facial serum, stabilised Vitamin C at an optimal concentration of 10% brightens the complexion, stimulates collagen synthesis, and reduces dark spots and the signs of photoageing. It works in synergy with astaxanthin, an antioxidant extracted from microalgae, and hyaluronic acid, with its moisturising and anti-wrinkle properties, to leave skin smooth, firm and radiant.

Discover the 10% Vitamin C & Astaxanthin Concentrated Serum

Organic Vitamin C & Astaxanthin Cream

This radiance-boosting treatment, packed with powerful antioxidants, enhances the skin’s natural glow, smooths the complexion and helps prevent the first signs of ageing. Vitamin C and astaxanthin protect the skin from free radicals and stimulate collagen synthesis, whilst maté extract boosts skin oxygenation.

Discover the Organic Vitamin C & Astaxanthin Cream

Active ingredient: Pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

An essential active ingredient for combating dark spots, a dull complexion and the signs of ageing, pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) stimulates collagen synthesis, reduces dark spots and restores the skin’s radiance and firmness. The active ingredient can be used as a quick treatment by mixing it with a neutral cream or serum to even out the complexion and protect against oxidative stress.

Discover the active ingredient: pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

Step 3: Targeted moisturising

3.5% Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Serum

One of the most concentrated 100% naturally sourced hyaluronic acid serums on the market, it can be used on its own or combined with other active ingredients. Its gel-like texture is instantly absorbed by the skin to smooth, moisturise and improve its elasticity, whilst filling in wrinkles. This renowned anti-ageing product provides the skin with intense, long-lasting hydration for up to 6 hours after application (lab-tested using the corneometry method).

Discover the 3.5% Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Intense Hydration Active Complex

This water-soluble (not oil-soluble) moisturising active ingredient replicates the skin’s ‘natural moisturising factor’ – that is, the combination of compounds that naturally maintain moisture in the upper layer of the epidermis – using several complementary and synergistic components. To be incorporated into any water-based formulation: cream, gel or foaming facial product, at a concentration of 1–3 per cent of the total weight of the formulation.

Discover the Intense Hydration Active Complex

Hyaluronic Acid & Polyglutamic Acid Cream

This innovative formula combines a new, patented generation of hyaluronic acids with varying molecular weights and polyglutamic acid, which can retain up to 5,000 times its weight in water. As a result, this rich, non-greasy cream provides immediate and long-lasting (48-hour) hydration to reduce the discomfort associated with dehydration, prevent or correct the signs of ageing, and leave the skin supple, soft and plump with a ‘baby-soft’ effect.

Discover the Hyaluronic Acid & Polyglutamic Acid Cream

Step 4: Boost microcirculation

Rose quartz facial roller

Using this rose quartz roller helps active ingredients to penetrate the skin more easily and boosts natural collagen production immediately after applying your skincare oil, cream or serum. Massaging the face with gentle, steady movements improves skin elasticity, reduces puffiness around the eyes, stimulates microcirculation and promotes a radiant complexion.

Discover the Rose Quartz Facial Roller

Step 5: Brighten your complexion

Hyaluronic Acid & Vitamin C Brightening Drops

A cross between make-up and skincare, these illuminating drops, enriched with skin-evening vitamin C and moisturising hyaluronic acid, give the complexion an instant glow. The pink, gold and orange mineral pearlescent pigments bring out the radiance of all skin tones. They can be mixed into a day cream to brighten the entire face or applied as highlighter, like a veil of light on the cheekbones, the bridge of the nose and the temples.

Discover the Hyaluronic Acid & Vitamin C Illuminating Drops

Concentrated radiance & luminosity active

With its brightening and antioxidant properties, this concentrated extract of Dahurian larch is incorporated into water-based formulations for anti-ageing, anti-dark spot and skin-brightening facial care products to reduce pigmentation spots, even out and restore radiance to the complexion, and promote collagen synthesis. The recommended dosage for this water-soluble (not oil-soluble) active ingredient is 1–3 per cent of the total weight of the formulation.

Discover the Radiance & Light Concentrated Active Ingredient

Step 6: Protect

Mineral Sun Milk SPF 30

Suitable for use all year round, this SPF 30 sun protection, formulated with a zinc oxide-based mineral filter, forms a barrier against oxidising UVA and UVB rays whilst diffusing light across the skin. Water-resistant, its milky texture glides on easily and leaves an invisible finish on the skin.

Discover the Mineral Sun Milk SPF 30

Certain active ingredients, such as vitamin C, need to be stored at room temperature, away from heat and light, with the bottle tightly closed after use. Furthermore, high-concentration vitamin C can irritate sensitive skin. It is therefore recommended to start by applying it every other day and to avoid combining it with other exfoliating active ingredients (AHAs, BHAs, retinol) at the outset. Generally speaking, and for greater comfort, it is recommended to test each product on the inside of your elbow and observe the effects after 48 hours.

A natural tip to boost your skin’s radiance? A facial steam treatment. By leaning your head over a pan of water that has been boiling for 10 minutes, with your head covered by a towel, the steam will help to purify your pores, moisturise your skin and dilate your blood vessels for an instant radiance boost.

Vanessa HOUPERT, who holds a Master’s degree in cultural journalism from the Sorbonne Nouvelle University (Paris 3), has been working as a journalist, copywriter and editorial consultant for media organisations and brands for over 10 years. Inspired by all things related to beauty, good living and wellbeing, her holistic approach to consumer trends enables her to analyse the times.