What are the best active ingredients for problem skin?

Identifying the most suitable active ingredients first requires understanding which underlying issue(s) is (are) predominant. Problem skin can, in fact, involve several imbalances: excess sebum, persistent inflammation, blackheads linked to hyperkeratinisation, increased sensitivity or even a compromised skin barrier. Studies show that these mechanisms can coexist and feed into one another, which explains the variability in responses to skincare treatments (1, 3). 

Truly effective active ingredients are those capable of targeting one or more of these biological mechanisms without irritating the skin.

For example, keratoregulatory** and exfoliating active ingredients promote cell renewal and the release of pores, whilst soothing, sebum-regulating or microbiome-supporting active ingredients help to limit inflammation and restore the skin’s balance (1, 2).

It is this understanding of mechanisms, rather than ‘types of spots’, that enables the selection of relevant active ingredients and their coherent integration into a skincare routine.

** Active ingredients capable of normalising cell renewal by regulating the production and elimination of keratin, in order to refine skin texture without compromising the skin barrier.

The distinction between natural active ingredients and so-called dermo-cosmetic active ingredients for the care of problem skin is now largely a thing of the past. 

• Many active ingredients used in natural cosmetics are backed by sound scientific evidence, whether they are purified naturally-derived molecules or standardised plant extracts. The literature shows that efficacy depends first and foremost on the form of the active ingredient, its concentration and its formulation, rather than on its origin (1, 3).

• In a natural approach, the challenge lies in selecting active ingredients that are well-documented, well-tolerated and suitable for regular use. Active ingredients derived from plants, minerals or natural biochemistry can thus act in conjunction with keratoregulatory or seboregulatory active ingredients, in particular by supporting the skin barrier, the microbiome or the skin’s soothing mechanisms (2, 7).

The active ingredients specifically targeted at ‘problem skin’ presented below act on different biological mechanisms and are not all compatible with one another. Some can be combined in a complementary manner, whilst others need to be used alternately over time or reserved for occasional use. The choice must therefore be based on identifying the mechanisms at play and the skin’s ability to tolerate them, rather than on a ‘more is better’ approach (1, 2, 3):

We’ll help you make sense of the range of active ingredients available, based on the specific issues your problem skin may be facing.

Excess sebum

This might apply to you if… Your skin shows persistent shine, particularly in the T-zone, enlarged pores and a tendency towards inflammatory or comedonal blemishes. Excess sebum can also promote the proliferation of certain bacteria associated with problem skin (1, 3).

Active ingredients to look for: sebum-regulating and purifying active ingredients should be prioritised, whilst taking care not to dry out the skin excessively. Niacinamide and zinc help to regulate sebum production whilst supporting the skin’s barrier function. Certain purifying plant-based active ingredients, such as burdock, stinging nettle or tea tree, can complement this action in a targeted and controlled manner (1, 2).

Imbalance in the skin microbiome

This may apply to you if… Blemishes persist despite a suitable skincare routine, the skin reacts easily or experiences recurrent inflammatory flare-ups. These signs may indicate dysbiosis of the skin microbiome, now recognised as a key factor in problem skin (2, 3).

Active ingredients to look out for: Prebiotics play a central role here, by supporting the balance of the skin’s flora. Soothing active ingredients that respect the skin barrier also help to limit the inflammatory reactions associated with microbial imbalance (2, 7).

Persistent inflammation

This may apply to you if… Blemishes are red, painful, and sometimes accompanied by a sensation of heat or discomfort. Chronic inflammation plays a major role in the development and persistence of problem skin (1, 3).

Active ingredients to look for: Active ingredients with documented anti-inflammatory properties, such as azelaic acid or niacinamide, help to modulate the inflammatory response whilst remaining suitable for regular use. Certain plant-based active ingredients with soothing properties, such as aloe vera or black cumin oil, can complement this approach by supporting skin comfort and tolerance to the formulations (1, 4, 5).

Hyperkeratinisation

This may apply to you if… Your skin has blackheads and an uneven texture. Hyperkeratinisation refers to a build-up of dead skin cells around the follicle, which contributes to blocked pores (1, 3).

Active ingredients to look for: Keratoregulatory and exfoliating active ingredients, such as salicylic acid or fruit acids, promote cell renewal and unclog pores. They should be introduced gradually to ensure the skin remains tolerant (1, 6).

Impaired barrier function

This may apply to you if… Your skin feels tight, shows diffuse redness or reacts easily to skincare products. A compromised skin barrier allows irritants to penetrate and perpetuates inflammation (7).

Active ingredients to look for: ingredients that support the skin barrier, such as niacinamide, aloe vera or prebiotics, which help to restore the skin’s integrity. This step is essential for improving the overall tolerance of the skincare routine and minimising paradoxical reactions (2, 7).

A word from the biochemistry engineer on natural active ingredients

"Certain combinations of active ingredients for problem skin can weaken the skin if not used correctly, particularly the layering of powerful exfoliants or the combination of purifying active ingredients without support for the skin barrier.

It is also important to remember that certain active ingredients may be present in a formula in various capacities. Salicylic acid, for example, is sometimes used as a preservative or co-preservative, whilst also being a keratolytic active ingredient in its own right. Without realising it, you may therefore be combining several sources of exfoliation within the same skincare routine.

Generally speaking, I prefer to think in terms of functional complementarity rather than accumulation. Spacing out keratoregulatory active ingredients, reading the composition of formulations carefully and systematically incorporating soothing or moisturising active ingredients often helps to improve skin tolerance and the overall effectiveness of skincare products."

Émilie Ondet, biochemical engineer and naturopath

A word from the dermatologist

"In my view, AHAs are a must-have in any anti-ageing or anti-acne routine, or for combating a dull complexion, thanks to their exfoliating action. Bear in mind, however, that there are all sorts of AHAs, and, crucially, they come in varying concentrations (and therefore with varying levels of irritation).

My advice: introduce them gradually, preferably applying them in the evening two or three times a week, whilst ensuring you use sun protection as well, as they can make the skin more sensitive to the sun.

Spoiler: like any exfoliant, they may cause a ‘purge’ when you first start using them.

They are not suitable for sensitive or irritated skin."

Dr Dima Haidar, dermatologist

Useful for problem skin, the active ingredients presented here can be incorporated into bespoke formulations or used in ready-to-use skincare products, depending on the level of simplicity required.

Our related products

Niacinamide: at low concentrations, this active ingredient helps to soothe problem skin and strengthen the skin barrier; at higher concentrations, it acts more on sebum regulation and skin tone evenness (1). Concentration: 1–7 per cent in your aqueous formulations.

Algo'Zinc active ingredient: this active ingredient, based on zinc complexed with a laminaria seaweed extract, has proven purifying, sebum-regulating and soothing properties. It is therefore a very useful active ingredient for formulating skincare products for oily, blemish-prone skin. Concentration: 5% in your aqueous formulations.

AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids): thanks to their ‘exfoliating’ effect and their role in cell renewal, AHAs are used as active ingredients in your formulations to smooth out wrinkles, even out and brighten the complexion, and reduce pigmentation spots and skin imperfections. This active ingredient can be used in your DIY cosmetic recipes (1–5 per cent for regular use; 5–10 per cent for an occasional exfoliating effect), but also as an active ingredient in our MIX – APPLY beauty routine: it blends easily in the palm of your hand with our neutral creams and Hyaluronic Acid Serum, for a simple and effective ‘quick’ skincare treatment.

Bacti-Pur active ingredient : naturally derived and produced through fermentation, Bacti-Pur is a highly innovative active ingredient with deodorising, purifying and sebum-regulating properties. It is very well tolerated by the skin whilst demonstrating proven efficacy against both body odour and skin imperfections. Dosage: 1–2 per cent in your aqueous formulations.

Active ingredient: Plant-based salicylic acid: this black willow bark extract, rich in salicylic acid, is a powerful ally to incorporate into your formulations for oily, dull or acne-prone skin. With purifying and keratolytic properties, it stimulates skin renewal, smooths out imperfections and combats blackheads, ingrown hairs and dandruff. Concentration: 2–4% as an active ingredient in leave-on products (face, body or hair), 2–10% as an active ingredient in rinse-off products (face, body or hair), always in an aqueous base.

Our ready-to-use formulations

Gentle Prebiotic, Zinc and Cucumber Cleansing Gel: this gentle cleansing gel deeply purifies whilst respecting the skin’s natural balance. Its prebiotic formula, combined with zinc and cucumber, removes impurities, regulates excess sebum and soothes the skin. Its fresh, light texture leaves the skin clean and purified without stripping it.

Niacinamide, Zinc and Hyaluronic Acid Toner: this toner, containing 5% niacinamide, refines the skin’s texture and tightens pores. Enriched with Zinc PCA and Hyaluronic Acid, it mattifies, moisturises and rebalances combination to oily skin. Use daily for clear, fresh and radiant skin.

10% Niacinamide, Copper and Zinc Serum: a serum containing 10% niacinamide that targets blemishes and evens out the complexion. Its combination of copper and zinc regulates sebum production, tightens pores and reduces redness. A light, non-greasy texture for visibly clearer, mattified skin.

10% Glycolic Acid and AHA Serum: this highly concentrated exfoliating serum, containing 10% glycolic acid, stimulates cell renewal to reveal a radiant complexion. It smooths out imperfections, fades dark spots and refines skin texture thanks to its AHA complex. For luminous, even-toned skin.

2% Salicylic Acid and Zinc Serum: this multi-action serum, concentrated with 2% plant-based salicylic acid, unclogs pores and reduces blemishes. Enriched with zinc and Agarikon mushroom extract, it regulates excess sebum, prevents blackheads and tightens pores. A lightweight, non-drying formula for purified skin and a refined complexion.

10% Azelaic Acid Serum: containing a 10% concentration of 100% naturally sourced azelaic acid, this serum is designed for acne-prone skin. It unclogs pores, regulates sebum production, reduces blackheads and redness, whilst mattifying the complexion. Enriched with hyaluronic acid and silica for enhanced moisturising and mattifying effects.

Organic Zinc Hyaluronate and Plant-Based Salicylic Acid Fluid Cream: this organic purifying fluid cream rebalances, mattifies and deeply moisturises thanks to zinc hyaluronate and salicylic acid. It reduces blemishes and tightens pores for clear, comfortable skin. With a light, non-greasy texture that absorbs quickly, it is ideal as a day or night treatment.

Organic anti-blemish essential oil roll-on: this roll-on, enriched with 7 purifying essential oils (tea tree, manuka, spike lavender, etc.), is applied topically to help clear blemishes. Its organic formula, containing black cumin oil, purifies the skin and accelerates skin repair. A handy size to take anywhere, so you can target spots as soon as they appear. Not to be used by pregnant or breastfeeding women, or by children under 7 years of age.

Clear Skin Complex: this dietary supplement combines burdock, nettle, wild pansy and zinc to detoxify and improve the condition of oily and blemish-prone skin. With the clinically proven, patented active ingredient SkinAx²™ Urban Detox, it visibly reduces spots, sebum and redness. Results can be seen from as early as 15 days, leaving skin clearer and more radiant. Take 2 capsules a day, to be swallowed with a glass of water. For adults only. Not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women, or in cases of oedematous heart or kidney failure. Not recommended in cases of allergy to salicylate derivatives or known cross-allergies, particularly to plants of the Asteraceae family.

Discover our super-simple 4-step anti-blemish routine too

Exfoliating and keratoregulatory active ingredients should be introduced gradually to ensure the skin can tolerate them. Using too many active ingredients at once can weaken the skin’s barrier. If you have sensitive or reactive skin, or are currently undergoing dermatological treatment, it is recommended that you adjust the concentrations and frequency of use. Always carry out a patch test on the inside of the elbow and monitor the skin’s reaction for 48 hours before applying the product more widely or more frequently.

Problem skin benefits more from a consistent and stable skincare routine than from a multitude of powerful active ingredients. Combining a regulating active ingredient, a soothing active ingredient and a skin barrier booster often leads to more long-lasting results. Consistent use and paying attention to how your skin reacts remain key factors.

Lou graduated from HEC in 2012. She gained ten years of experience in marketing for cosmetics and perfumes before becoming an independent consultant in this field. She recently completed a three-year naturopathy program at the European College of Holistic Naturopathy (CENATHO, Paris) with the goal of supporting the physical and mental health of the people she works with through a holistic approach to lifestyle.