Aroma-Zone Azelaic Acid Active Ingredient

INCI Name: Azelaic acid

NATURAL / SYNTHETIC: Active ingredient of natural origin

VEGAN - CERTIFICATIONS

BIOCHEMICAL COMPOSITION

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid (two acid groups per molecule) found in certain grains, such as wheat, rye, and barley. Azelaic acid can also be produced by Malassezia furfur, a yeast naturally present in the skin’s flora.

SUSTAINABILITY & TRACEABILITY

The azelaic acid used by Aroma-Zone is 100% natural, produced from sunflower oil.

Azelaic acid is a natural compound effective in combating blemishes, thanks to its multifaceted action on several factors contributing to acne.

It inhibits the proliferation of keratinocytes, the cells in the epidermis that produce keratin. Keratin provides strength and impermeability to the skin, but its accumulation can clog pores, prevent sebum from draining, and cause the appearance of comedones (hyperkeratosis). By reducing keratin synthesis in blemish-prone skin, azelaic acid reduces blackheads and comedones and unclogs pores. This effect is amplified by the active ingredient’s ability to inhibit sebum production: it prevents the conversion of testosterone, which stimulates the sebaceous glands. It thus has a mattifying effect on the skin.

Azelaic acid also acts on blemishes by regulating the skin’s microflora: it has a bacteriostatic effect (which stops bacterial proliferation) on several bacteria involved inacne, such as Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis.

Finally, due to its soothing effect—thanks to its ability to capture free radicals, compounds that cause tissue damage and inflammation— azelaic acid helps combat redness caused by acne and rosacea.

A clinical study involving 90 volunteers with acne-prone skin (mild to moderate acne) demonstrated the ability of a cream containing 15% azelaic acid to reduce skin lesions and hyperpigmentation caused by comedones.

Another clinical study also demonstrated the efficacy of a gel containing 10% azelaic acid in reducing acne-like lesions.

A Note from Adeline Nalin, Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist at Aroma-Zone

“Concentrations of up to 10% azelaic acid are generally well-tolerated by most skin types, while effectively addressing mild blemishes and improving skin radiance.

However, it is recommended to introduce azelaic acid gradually, as sensations of discomfort, such as tingling, may occur at first, especially with the most sensitive skin types.

At higher concentrations, azelaic acid becomes a therapeutic active ingredient (dermatological treatment).”

Adeline Nalin - Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist

A Note from Our Aroma-Zone Toxicologist

“The formulation’s galenics, which contain azelaic acid, play an important role in the product’s good tolerability.

Our 10% Azelaic Acid Concentrated Serum was tested in vitro on 3D reconstructed human epidermis and demonstrated low irritant potential (with no cytotoxicity and satisfactory inflammation markers).”

Adeline Nalin - Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist

A Note from the Dermatologist

“Azelaic acid is an essential ingredient for skin prone to blemishes and redness. It has a mattifying and sebum-regulating effect, which helps control excess sebum and prevent the appearance of comedones and blackheads.

By refining skin texture and tightening pores, it creates a smoother, more even complexion. Additionally, azelaic acid regulates the skin’s microbiome, making it an excellent choice for reducing redness and soothing sensitive or reactive skin.”

Dr. Dima Haidar - Dermatologist

Azelaic acid is a challenging active ingredient to formulate. In its active form, it is poorly soluble, making its incorporation into a cosmetic product difficult. The challenge lies in incorporating it into a formula capable of keeping it uniformly suspended, while ensuring good stability and a comfortable application. This formulation work results in a product that is effective, stable, and well-tolerated, suitable for skin prone to imperfections.

Blemish-prone skin, combination and oily skin, dull skin, sensitive skin.

Excess sebum, blackheads, redness.

• Provides a mattifying and sebum-regulating effect that helps control shine

• Prevents the appearance of blackheads and whiteheads

• Refines skin texture

• Visibly tightens pores

• Regulates the skin’s microflora

• Reduces redness for a more even complexion.

Concentrated 10% Azelaic Acid Face Serum

Aroma-Zone’s 10% Azelainic Acid Concentrated Serum has been formulated to meet the needs of combination to oily, blemish-prone, and acne-prone skin. Its concentrated formula helps rebalance the skin, mattify the complexion, and visibly improve the appearance of blemishes, without drying the skin.

This serum combines a high 10% concentration of naturally derived azelaic acid with silica, which absorbs excess sebum and leaves a long-lasting matte finish, as well as hyaluronic acid, to preserve hydration and skin comfort. Its lightweight texture absorbs quickly and integrates easily into a daily routine.

Non-comedogenic, it is used before your day or night cream. Due to its high concentration, it is recommended to introduce it gradually, starting with 2 to 3 times a week.

Marion is a Doctor of Pharmacy, naturopath, and coach. After twelve years working in the cosmetics industry, she now supports her clients in achieving greater overall balance and adopting a more mindful lifestyle, with a particular focus on sustainable nutrition. She is also the creator of a podcast, where she shares her insights to promote a lifestyle philosophy that respects both health and the environment.