Ceramide NP is one of the main ceramides naturally present in the skin’s lipid barrier. When it is lacking, the skin becomes more sensitive to external aggressors. Incorporating it into a formula therefore helps to effectively restore the skin barrier.
From a formulation standpoint, however, ceramides present a major challenge: their melting point is very high, exceeding 100 °C, which far exceeds the typical working temperatures for emulsions, which do not go beyond 80 °C. To overcome this challenge, ceramides are combined with a fatty alcohol, which lowers their melting point and facilitates their incorporation into the oil phase. It remains essential, however, never to overheat the formula, as exceeding 100 °C could alter the entire fatty phase and accelerate the rancidity of the oils, for example.