What are the differences between Retinol and Bakuchiol?

Despite their differences, retinol and bakuchiol share similar benefits for the skin and perform equally well. Here are some of the properties they have in common when used in cosmetics:

• Anti-ageing: they stimulate collagen synthesis and cell renewal, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and preserving skin firmness and elasticity.

• Anti-oxidants: they help the skin neutralise free radicals, which are involved in oxidative stress and accelerated skin ageing.

• Anti-blemish: they detoxify acne-prone skin and prevent the appearance of open or closed comedones (blackheads, for example).

• Anti-dark spot: they reduce traces of hyperpigmentation (dark spots, age spots, marks left by pimples, etc.).

The bottom line: apart from their chemical differences, bakuchiol is considered to be a plant-based alternative to retinol because the latter is of synthetic origin.

• Retinol: a member of the retinoid family, which also includes retinaldehyde and retinoic acid. It is a derivative of vitamin A, naturally present in our skin and animal fats. In cosmetics, real retinol (not to be confused with "bio-retinol" or "retinol-like") is synthetic. Therefore, it is banned by most organic cosmetic charters.

• Bakuchiol: this is a terpenophenol extracted from an Asian plant, Psoralea corylifolia, which has long been known in traditional Chinese medicine. It is thanks to this legume that bakuchiol serums can be made today. However, it is not the only source. Bakuchiol is also present in other plant species, such as David's Elm and Otholobium pubescens.

The bottom line: bakuchiol is typically better tolerated than retinol. Generally speaking, bakuchiol and retinol are not recommended for very sensitive or atopic skin types.

• Retinol: retinoids are often criticised for their 'backlash' on the skin. For some people, they cause irritation, overheating and flaking, among other symptoms. That's why manufacturers often recommend gradually introducing retinol into a skincare routine. This allows your skin to become accustomed to it, and it's up to you to adapt the dosage according to how you feel.

• Bakuchiol: this study in the British Journal of Dermatology showed that it offers cosmetic results similar to those of retinol, but with fewer side effects. However, be careful if you have sensitive skin. The fact that it is better tolerated overall does not mean that it will automatically make your skin happy. Take the time to do a sensitivity test in the crease of your elbow at least 48 hours before use.

The bottom line: retinol skincare products can only be applied in the evening, unlike those containing bakuchiol.

• Retinol: unfortunately, one of the side effects of retinol is it increases the skin's sensitivity to sunlight. It is said to be photosensitising. As a result, you can't use it any time in your routine. It should only be applied in the evening, when your skin is no longer at risk from UV rays. The next morning, it is still essential to wear a sun cream to protect your sensitised skin.

• Bakuchiol: conversely, one of the main advantages of bakuchiol is that it has no photosensitising effect. So you're free to apply it whenever you like, in the morning and/or evening. The frequency of application depends on your preferences, but you can apply it up to twice a day. Another difference with retinol is that it can be applied to the eye contour area to target dark circles and fine lines.

The bottom line: products enriched with retinol are incompatible with some active ingredients and not recommended for others. Bakuchiol serums offer more room for manoeuvre.

• Retinol: this powerful active ingredient must be handled with care. It should not be combined with other potentially irritating ingredients, including AHAs and BHAs (salicylic acid). If you are undergoing acne treatment (benzyl peroxide), you should also avoid applying retinol (unless advised otherwise by your doctor or dermatologist). We also advise against using it with Vitamin C.

• Bakuchiol: it has fewer cosmetic contraindications, making it easier for beginners to handle. As it has a keratolytic action, be careful not to apply it after exfoliation. For the rest of the time, avoid layering two highly concentrated serums on top of one another. It's better to use them separately (one in the morning and the other in the evening, for example) to keep your skin comfortable.

The bottom line: pay attention to the galenic formulation of your retinol or bakuchiol products to optimise their penetration and your cosmetic combinations.

• Retinol: many retinol serums are water-based. At Aroma-Zone, we've chosen this galenic formulation for our Optimised Retinal Serum. This gives it a fresher feel when applied, as well as a natural, lightweight feel. This type of serum follows the classic application protocol: place it under your moisturiser or skincare oil.

• Bakuchiol: most serums with bakuchiol are formulated on an oily base. This is the case with our serum, which contains plant-derived olive squalane. Yet, it doesn't leave a greasy finish. That's because squalane has a fine texture and a good affinity with the skin's surface. So it penetrates quickly, leaving a "dry" feel. Just one golden rule to remember: if you're combining several serums, apply it on top of your water-based serum.