What are the benefits of Bakuchiol for my skin?

Bakuchiol is an active plant ingredient, generally extracted from the seeds of a herbaceous plant, Psoralea corylifolia (or Cullen corylifolium). This species thrives in the Himalayas, particularly in India and Sri Lanka. It can be recognised by its green, veined leaves, covered in fine down. In spring, it develops pretty clusters of purple flowers.

This astonishing endemic legume is one of the mainstays of traditional Indian pharmacopoeia and Chinese medicine. It owes most of its properties to one compound: the famous bakuchiol! This active plant ingredient is isolated and used in our serums and cosmetic creams. Its rather strange name comes from the plant's Sanskrit name: bakuchi.

Age spots are, as their name suggests, characteristic of skin ageing. They can also be a sign of skin that has been repeatedly damaged by UV rays. As you know, sun exposure and skin ageing are (very) closely linked.

Bakuchiol has been shown to reduce both the intensity of hyperpigmentation and the extent of dark spots. This property is partly attributable to its effect on melanogenesis (melanin synthesis, the source of your skin colour, but also your dark spots). In fact, it seems to be able to interfere with 2 of its levers: tyrosinase (an enzyme that 'activates' the production of melanin) and a hormone involved in stimulating melanocytes (cells specialised in synthesising the melanin pigment).

Bakuchiol is one of the few agents (other than retinoids) with proven efficacy on acne-prone skin. Itis thought to actively target P. acnes, one of the main bacteria causing acne. Several studies have shown that it is capable of reducing acne lesions and any associated inflammation. According to one study, the results are even more convincing when it is combined with salicylic acid. In cosmetics, it can prevent the appearance of new blackheads by limiting sebum lipid oxidation.

Remember: acne is, by definition, a skin condition. Therefore, it cannot be 'treated' with cosmetics, which are only there to preserve or improve the overall appearance of your skin. If you have papules or pustules, seek medical advice.

Scientific research has confirmed that bakuchiol is an effective anti-ageing ingredient. However, its mechanisms of action have not been studied to the same extent as retinol, which for many remains THE benchmark for reducing the appearance of wrinkles. It appears to have a retinol-like profile that enables it to stimulate the production of type I and IV collagen. It is also thought to act on type III collagen synthesis in mature skin. This effects both the length and depth of wrinkles, which appear less visible after 12 weeks (based on 2 applications a day).

Products enriched with bakuchiol are also powerful preventive allies. This active ingredient acts like a shield against free radicals, which are responsible for premature skin ageing. How does it do this? By activating a transcription factor, which plays a key role in cells resistance to oxidative stress, and limiting cellular lipid peroxidation.

If you're wondering whether you can apply bakuchiol to the eye contour area, the answer is YES. (However, check the recommendations for use of your cosmetic products: some formulas, whether enriched with bakuchiol or not, may not be suitable for this delicate area).

Given its benefits for wrinkles, this 100% natural active ingredient can, of course, be useful for smoothing out crow's feet. But it doesn't stop there, as its anti-pigmentation properties could also benefit dark circles. Bakuchiol could be particularly useful for lightening dark circles (linked to an accumulation of melanin).

Bakuchiol is often presented as a natural alternative to retinol (vitamin A). And there's some truth in this!

Despite their fundamentally different chemical structures, these two molecules have comparable properties when it comes to preventing the signs of ageing. Both appear to be capable of activating extracellular matrix protein (collagen, elastin, etc.) production. By reinforcing the skin's support tissues, they help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Their results are also similar when it comes to hyperpigmentation. Retinol and bakuchiol both affect both pigmentation intensity, as well as the extent of the hyperpigmented areas. They are two ingredients of choice for smoothing uneven skin tones.

This is its main difference from retinol. It's also what makes it so popular, at a time when more and more of us claim to have sensitive skin.

Studies prove that bakuchiol is better tolerated by the skin. The people who took part in the tests experienced fewer side effects than with retinol (tingling, flaking). As a result, it is now being promoted as having similar, but gentler, benefits.

Another positive point is that it has no known major contraindications. Unlike retinoids, bakuchiol has no photosensitising effect. So, you can use it in the morning, as well as in the evening, without having to apply a sunscreen.

Despite its soothing properties and greater tolerance than retinoids, bakuchiol is not necessarily a panacea. It may not be suitable for the most delicate skin.

In all cases, remember that cosmetics are designed for use on healthy skin. This means that cosmetic products containing bakuchiol cannot be used on atopic skin. If you suffer from atopic skin, use the solutions recommended by your dermatologist.

While it is strongly recommended to avoid using retinol during pregnancy, this is not the case for its plant counterpart, bakuchiol. In theory, there is every reason to believe that it can be used freely while pregnant.

That said, every pregnancy is different and we all have our own unique needs. So, it's best to take a cautious approach. We recommend that you check with a doctor that your beauty routine will not harm your baby.