Spilanthes targets expression lines thanks to its spilanthol content, which reduces the micro-muscle contractions responsible for these lines. Its effect is particularly visible on dynamic wrinkles, but its benefits don’t stop there: by stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis, it also helps improve the appearance of deeper wrinkles, with a gradual and natural result.
Aroma-Zone Spilanthes active ingredient
FIRMING ANTI-AGING SMOOTHING
If further proof were needed of the power of plant-based active ingredients, Spilanthes would be a textbook example. The plant-derived molecule spilanthol provides rapid muscle-relaxing activity (muscle relaxation) that inhibits contractions of the facial subcutaneous muscles, which cause expression lines. Result : visible action on wrinkles from the very first applications and an instant anti-fatigue effect, for smoother skin.
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Spilanthes Aroma-Zone profile
INCI Name : Spilanthes Acmella Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract or Acmella oleracea extract
VEGAN
BIOCHEMICAL COMPOSITION
The properties of Spilanthes are due to its high content of spilanthol, an isobutylamide of polyene and polyenoic acids, belonging to the family of fatty acid amides. The flowers and leaves of Spilanthes are the parts of the plant richest in spilanthol. They cause a tingling sensation when touched.
TRACEABILITY & SUSTAINABILITY
Naturally derived active ingredient. The Spilanthes used by Aroma-Zone is obtained through oil extraction from the leaves and flowers of Spilanthes acmella using a patented process.
Spilanthes : what effect does it have on the skin ?
Spilanthes, or Brède mafane, is a flowering plant native to South America. Traditionally used to relieve mouth and throat pain due to its anesthetic properties, it also offers numerous benefits in cosmetics.
Thanks to its relaxing effect on subcutaneous muscle micro-contractions, Spilanthes smooths expression lines simply by applying it to the skin. This effect is rapid and reversible. The skin is visibly smoothed from the very first uses.
Beyond its rapid and visible effect on expression lines, Spilanthes prevents skin aging over the long term.
By stimulating the synthesis by dermal cells of collagen and elastin—which are responsible for the skin’s firmness and elasticity—this active ingredient firms the skin with continued use and prevents the formation of new wrinkles. It also has a soothing effect appreciated by mature skin, thanks to its ability to inhibit inflammatory mediators such as the NF-kB factor.
Spilanthes : scientifically proven efficiency
A study analyzed the anti-wrinkle efficacy of a serum containing Spilanthes. After 2 weeks of use, the volunteers’ wrinkles were significantly reduced, particularly around the eyes and lips. No skin irritation was reported.
Skin tolerance
A note from Adeline Nalin, our Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist at Aroma-Zone
“Spilanthes is an extract from the plant Acmella oleracea, primarily used as a natural alternative to synthetic peptides or Botox. It offers a gentle approach through topical application—no injections, no permanent muscle paralysis—for better tolerance. It is generally well-tolerated and is also suitable for dry to very dry skin.”
Adeline Nalin - Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist
A safe ingredient for your health
A note from our Aroma-Zone Toxicologist
“Although Spilanthes is safe, as with any plant-based extract, it may cause irritation, redness, a tingling sensation, or even an allergic reaction, particularly in people sensitive to plants in the Asteraceae family. It is recommended not to use it after a treatment that may disrupt the skin barrier, such as a peel, to avoid any risk of discomfort. It should also be avoided in cases of very sensitive skin.”
Adeline Nalin - Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist
A note from the Dermatologist
"Spilanthol is an active ingredient extracted from a plant traditionally used for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anesthetic properties. In recent years, it has emerged as a promising ingredient in anti-aging skincare, as preliminary studies suggest it has muscle-relaxing, antioxidant, and soothing effects. This active ingredient can be beneficial for smoothing the skin and can be used morning and night as part of your routine.”
Dr. Dima Haidar - Dermatologist
Formulation focus with the Aroma-Zone R&D laboratory
The Spilanthes extract used by Aroma-Zone is standardized for spilanthol, the molecule responsible for its smoothing action on expression lines. Its fat-soluble nature allows it to be incorporated into oil-based serums, where it fully exerts its action on skin micro-contractions. In the Spilanthes Plant Concentrated Serum, it is combined with butterfly lavender extract, also known for its action on expression lines. This combination helps relax micro-contractions in the subcutaneous muscles and enhances the immediate smoothing effect sought in anti-aging formulas.
In the Vegan Collagen & Spilanthes Rich Cream, Spilanthes is combined with vegan collagen to work synergistically on all signs of aging : Spilanthes targets expression lines while collagen helps improve firmness and facial contours.
For which skin types ?
For mature skin or at the first signs of aging.
What issues does this address ?
It targets expression lines, deep-set wrinkles, and loss of firmness and elasticity.
What Spilanthes does for the skin
Immediate smoothing effect on expression lines
Prevent the appearance of new wrinkles
Firm the facial contours
Improve skin elasticity.
Spilanthes : an essential ingredient for the skin
Spilanthes Plant Concentrated Serum
The Spilanthes Plant Concentrated Serum is a certified organic and vegan skincare product that combines a plant complex of Spilanthes and Butterfly Lavender to immediately smooth expression lines thanks to their inhibitory action on micro-muscle contractions. Its formula also combines Hyaluronic acid, Cacay oil, and an extract of Astragalus, three active ingredients known to support collagen synthesis, preserve hydration, strengthen the skin barrier, and protect the skin from oxidative stress. Used morning and/or evening on the face and neck before your moisturizer, this serum provides a smoothing, firming, and plumping effect, ideal for mature skin and dry to very dry skin.
It can be combined with the 3.5% Hyaluronic Acid Concentrated Serum to intensify the plumping effect, or with the 1.5% Vegan Collagen Concentrated Serum to enhance firmness.
Rich Vegan Collagen & Spilanthes Cream
The Rich Vegan Collagen & Spilanthes Cream is a treatment designed for mature, dry to very dry skin, including sensitive skin. Its formula combines biomimetic vegan collagen, Spilanthes extract, and hyaluronic acid to comprehensively address visible signs of aging. Spilanthes, rich in spilanthol, targets expression lines thanks to its relaxing effect on skin micro-contractions, while vegan collagen helps improve firmness, density, and the definition of the facial contour. Hyaluronic acid completes this synergy by supporting hydration and a plump appearance of the skin. Used morning and night on the face and neck after serum, this cream helps smooth the skin, strengthen its structure, and improve its comfort, with a rich, creamy texture that absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy film.
FAQ
Does Spilanthes really work on wrinkles, or only on fine expression lines?
Does Spilanthes really work on wrinkles, or only on fine expression lines?
Does Spilanthes really work on wrinkles, or only on fine expression lines?
Is Spilanthes extract suitable for areas of movement (eye contour, lips, forehead)?
Is Spilanthes extract suitable for areas of movement (eye contour, lips, forehead)?
Is Spilanthes extract suitable for areas of movement (eye contour, lips, forehead)?
Spilanthes’ mechanism of action, based on the relaxation of micro-contractions, is particularly suited to the mobile areas of the face where expression lines form. Its safety profile allows for application on these dynamic areas. However, precautions for use depend on the specific formulations. The Spilanthes Plant Concentrated Serum should be used while avoiding the eye area; in case of accidental contact, it is recommended to rinse with clean water.
Can Spilanthes completely replace a retinoid active ingredient in an anti-aging routine?
Can Spilanthes completely replace a retinoid active ingredient in an anti-aging routine?
Can Spilanthes completely replace a retinoid active ingredient in an anti-aging routine?
Spilanthes and retinoids work through different mechanisms. Spilanthes exerts a muscle-relaxing action that quickly smooths expression lines and helps improve firmness, with excellent tolerability. Retinoids, on the other hand, primarily work by stimulating cell turnover and supporting fibroblast activity, which helps improve skin texture and the appearance of deeper wrinkles.
At what concentrations is Spilanthes truly effective in skincare?
At what concentrations is Spilanthes truly effective in skincare?
At what concentrations is Spilanthes truly effective in skincare?
The effectiveness of Spilanthes relies on the use of extracts standardized in spilanthol. The concentrations used in the formulation are determined to ensure visible smoothing activity while maintaining skin tolerance. Aroma-Zone skincare products containing Spilanthes use controlled and titrated dosages to ensure efficacy consistent with available scientific data.
Which parts of the plant contain spilanthol?
Which parts of the plant contain spilanthol?
Which parts of the plant contain spilanthol?
Spilanthol is found in all parts of Acmella oleracea (roots, stems, leaves, and flowers), and the entire plant can be used in traditional medicine. The aerial parts (flowers and leaves) are, however, the parts richest in the active ingredient. They contain enough of it to cause a tingling sensation upon contact.⁵
Spilanthol is found in other plants of the genus Acmella and in Heliopsis longipes, another flowering plant from South America, where it is called Affinine. Note that although the two names are different, they refer to the same molecule.
Why does Spilanthol have a muscle-relaxing effect?
Why does Spilanthol have a muscle-relaxing effect?
Why does Spilanthol have a muscle-relaxing effect?
Within muscle cells, calcium is contained in an isolated compartment (endoplasmic reticulum). Muscle contraction is triggered by the release of calcium from this compartment. Spilanthol activates receptors in muscle cells that prevent the release of calcium (CB1 receptors). As a result, a reversible relaxation of the muscle is observed.
What other natural product can have muscle-relaxing effects?
What other natural product can have muscle-relaxing effects?
What other natural product can have muscle-relaxing effects?
Butterfly lavender extract, rich in fenchone, also has muscle-relaxing effects on subcutaneous micro-contractions. It is combined with Spilanthol in an innovative plant-based complex within the Spilanthes Plant Concentrated Serum.
Spotlight on our specialist editor, Marion Alves De Oliveira
Marion is a Doctor of Pharmacy, naturopath, and life coach. After twelve years in the cosmetics industry, she now guides her clients toward holistic balance and a more mindful lifestyle, drawing on her expertise in sustainable food practices. As the creator of a podcast, she shares her insights to promote a philosophy of living that respects both health and the environment.
Bibliography
1
SKIN CARE, The Skin, an Aroma-Zone publication by La Plage
2
Barbosa, A. F.; de Carvalho, M. G.; Smith, R. E.; Sabaa-Srur, A. U. O. Spilanthol: Occurrence, Extraction, Chemistry and Biological Activities. Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia 2016, 26 (1), 128–133.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bjp.2015.07.024
3
Kowalczyk, S.; Grymel, M.; Bilik, J.; Kula, W.; Wawoczny, A.; Grymel, P.; Gillner, D. Selected Plants as Sources of Natural and Active Ingredients for Cosmetics of the Future. Applied Sciences 2024, 14 (8), 3487.
https://doi.org/10.3390/app14083487
4
Savic, S. M.; Cekic, N. D.; Savic, S. R.; Ilic, T. M.; Savic, S. D. ‘All-Natural’ Anti-Wrinkle Emulsion Serum with Acmella Oleracea Extract: A Design of Experiments (DoE) Formulation Approach, Rheology and in Vivo Skin Performance/Efficacy Evaluation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2021, 43 (5), 530–546.
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12726
