Aroma-Zone Glycolic Acid Active Ingredient

INCI Name: Glycolic Acid 

VEGAN  

BIOCHEMICAL COMPOSITION

It belongs to the family of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). It is the smallest of the AHAs, giving it a simple molecular structure composed of a carboxyl group and a hydroxyl group.

SUSTAINABILITY & TRACEABILITY  

This active ingredient is naturally present in several plants such as sugarcane, beets, and grapes. 

Glycolic acid acts primarily through a mechanism of exfoliation by reducing the cohesion between cells in the stratum corneum, which promotes natural desquamation. More specifically, it promotes the breakdown of corneodesmosomes—the bonds that hold dead cells together—thereby refining skin texture and smoothing the skin’s surface.

Beyond this superficial action, this active ingredient helps maintain hydration by increasing the tissues’ ability to retain water. It also supports epidermal cell renewal and promotes the synthesis of essential structural components, such as collagen and hyaluronic acid (glycosaminoglycans), which are naturally present in the dermis. Finally, it helps improve the quality of elastic fibers, offering a comprehensive solution to preserve the skin’s suppleness and firmness.

The scientific validity* of glycolic acid is based on precise clinical results regarding the structure, hydration, and appearance of the skin.

First, regarding skin structure support, studies have shown that regular application can lead to a 59% thickening of the epidermis and a 100% thickening of the dermis, a remarkable result for preserving skin density. Over the long term, there is also a 25% increase in overall skin thickness, along with improved collagen density and elastin fiber quality. 

Glycolic acid is also beneficial for blemish-prone skin. For skin prone to acne, daily application at 10% yields a significant improvement as early as the 45th day. More intensive regimens have shown a reduction in the severity of blemishes of up to 68%, with visible effects on the appearance of comedones, papules, and associated pigmentation. Following these treatments, 100% of volunteers noted smoother skin.

Glycolic acid is a solution capable of increasing skin hydration by up to 163%.

It is also highly effective at reducing dark spots: in comparative tests, 45% of users observed a reduction of more than 75% in the appearance of their spots. Finally, it acts on signs of aging, by stimulating the synthesis of collagen (up to +250%) and glycosaminoglycans (up to +267%), it helps visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and sustainably improve skin texture.

*See the Scientific Bibliography for more information.

Adeline Nalin - Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist

Glycolic acid is an active ingredient known for its keratolytic action, meaning its ability to promote chemical exfoliation of the skin. Unlike mechanical exfoliants with grains, its action relies solely on the molecule itself, which helps gradually remove dead skin cells from the surface of the epidermis, resulting in a smoother skin texture and a more even complexion. 

Its effectiveness depends heavily on its concentration: at low concentrations, it helps restore the complexion’s radiance and improve the skin’s overall appearance. At higher concentrations, its exfoliating action is enhanced, resulting in a more pronounced peeling effect.

In formulations, the key parameter remains the pH, which directly determines the activity of glycolic acid. To be effective, it must be formulated in an acidic environment, allowing the molecule to remain in its active form. However, a pH that is too low can cause discomfort or even irritation. The challenge, therefore, lies in finding a balance between efficacy and skin tolerance. 

A pH of around 4 generally offers a good compromise: acidic enough to allow for exfoliating activity, while remaining close to the skin’s physiological pH (approximately 5.5), in order to best preserve its natural balance. This is the case with our 10% Glycolic Acid & AHA Concentrated Serum. 

To safely incorporate glycolic acid into your skincare routine, a few tips are essential to maximize its benefits while maintaining your skin’s balance. It is best to take a gradual approach, starting with a lower concentration during the first week, then increasing the dosage based on your skin’s tolerance.

Some temporary discomfort may occur, such as a tingling sensation, mild burning, dryness, or localized redness. These side effects are often linked to a high concentration of free acid or a very low pH. For optimal comfort, the choice of texture is key: opt for a cream for dry skin and a gel for oily or acne-prone skin.

Finally, applying sunscreen is essential. The exfoliating action of this active ingredient can increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun, making sun protection necessary to prevent the risk of hyperpigmentation or other issues related to UV rays.

For protocols using higher concentrations, professional supervision is required to minimize the risk of more severe skin reactions, such as scabbing or changes in pigmentation.