Which facial cleanser should you use if you have acne?

Acne is caused by an imbalance in the functioning of the sebaceous glands, located in the dermis. These glands produce sebum, a natural lipid substance whose role is to protect and maintain the skin's suppleness.

When this production becomes excessive or the sebum thickens, it can mix with dead cells on the surface of the epidermis. This accumulation promotes pore blockage. Comedones, inflammatory pimples, or deeper lesions may then appear.

Acne frequently occurs during adolescence due to hormonal changes that stimulate sebaceous gland activity. However, it can persist or appear in adulthood. Hormonal fluctuations, stress, certain dietary imbalances, or genetic predisposition can influence its development and intensity.

Facial cleanser is the basis of any beauty routine. It is used in the morning and/or evening to remove impurities that have accumulated on the skin's surface and in the pores. Unlike simply rinsing with water, it provides targeted cleansing tailored to each skin type. When chosen correctly, it respects the skin's balance while preparing the skin to receive subsequent skincare products, such as serums or creams.

Throughout the day and night, the skin naturally accumulates sebum, dead cells, sweat, pollution particles, and makeup residue. Without proper cleansing, these elements can remain on the surface of the epidermis and contribute to clogged pores.

The role of a facial cleanser is to remove these impurities while maintaining the skin's balance. In the morning, it removes excess sebum produced during the night and prepares the skin for daytime care. In the evening, it frees the epidermis from external impurities and makeup, allowing the skincare products applied afterwards to work more effectively.

Gentle, regular cleansing helps keep skin clear, balanced, and comfortable day after day.

Cleansers come in several forms. The choice depends on your skin type and personal preferences.

Cleansing gel

Light and fresh texture, ideal for combination to oily skin. It rinses off with water and provides an immediate feeling of purity.

Cleansing foam

Light and gentle, it envelops the skin and is suitable for skin types seeking effective cleansing without a tight feeling.

Cleansing cream or milk

More creamy, they are suitable for dry or sensitive skin. Their texture limits any feeling of discomfort.

Micellar water and hydrosol

Applied with a reusable cotton pad, they provide gentle cleansing without rinsing or as a complement to washing with water.

Cleansing bar

Practical and economical, it gently cleanses while respecting the hydrolipidic film.

Cleansing powder

When mixed with a little water, it provides a more concentrated cleanse and can have a mild exfoliating effect depending on its composition.

When you have acne, cleansing your skin is more than just a simple hygiene routine. It's a key step in your routine that plays an active role in maintaining your skin's balance. There are several reasons why it's so important.

Acne-prone skin often produces more sebum. This sebum can trap particles of pollution, dust, sweat, or makeup residue in the pores.

Proper cleansing helps remove this excess and accumulated impurities, especially in the morning after a night's sleep and in the evening after a day of exposure. After physical activity, it also helps eliminate sweat, which can promote bacterial growth.

Dead skin cells can become trapped in thickened sebum and form comedones. Some cleansers have a slightly exfoliating action that helps to remove these cells and keep pores clearer.

Regular cleansing, morning and evening, helps to limit the appearance of new blackheads and microcysts.

Acne is associated with a change in the skin's microbiota, particularly the development of certain strains of Cutibacterium acnes within the hair follicles. Excessive sebum accumulation creates an environment conducive to their proliferation and can promote local inflammatory reactions.

By gently cleansing the skin, we limit this favorable environment and help maintain healthier skin.

A gentle cleanser respects the skin's physiological pH, which is around 4.5 to 5.5. This balance is essential for maintaining the barrier function and limiting imbalances.

Conversely, a product that is too harsh can disrupt this balance and cause a compensatory reaction with increased sebum production. The goal is therefore not to strip the skin, but to cleanse effectively while respecting it.

The choice of cleanser depends primarily on your skin type. An unsuitable formula may accentuate imbalances, increase excess sebum, and cause discomfort or tightness. 

Combination to oily skin produces excess sebum, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), with enlarged pores, blackheads, and comedones. Light textures, such as gels or foams, are ideal for not weighing down the skin. Purifying active ingredients such as white clay (or kaolin), zinc, or salicylic acid, help regulate sebum and unclog pores.Salicylic acid help regulate sebum and unclog pores.

Sensitive skin reacts easily to external aggressions with redness, stinging, or tightness. Gentle cleansers, free of sulfates and irritants, in the form of a cream or light foam, cleanse without weakening the skin. Plant extracts such as calendula and chamomile soothe and support the skin's balance.

Dry skin produces little sebum and is prone to tightness and a weakened skin barrier. Cleansing milks, cleansing creams, or soap-free bars enriched with plant oils, plant ceramides or Aloe vera help preserve the hydrolipidic film. Lactic acid, used in low concentrations, can also support skin renewal without compromising comfort. The goal is to cleanse while maintaining the skin's suppleness and balance.

Acne-prone skin often has excess sebum, clogged pores, and regular breakouts, blackheads, or sometimes deeper lesions. Cleansing is therefore essential to limit the accumulation of sebum and impurities while respecting the sensitivity of the epidermis.

To do this, it is recommended to opt for gentle, purifying, non-stripping cleansers. Active ingredients such as Niacinamide, green clay, zinc, salicylic acid, or even azelaic acid in cases of hormonal imbalances, help to unclog pores, regulate excess sebum, and reduce the environment conducive to the development of bacteria responsible for blemishes. The goal is to purify the skin without drying it out, in order to avoid a vicious cycle where the skin produces more sebum to protect itself.

Good to know: Be sure to avoid formulas that are too harsh. Excessively dry skin can react by producing more sebum, which perpetuates the imbalance. Cleansing should therefore purify while respecting the skin's natural sensitivity.

Mature skin produces less sebum and its cell renewal slows down, which can lead to dryness and loss of suppleness. It can sometimes develop late-onset imperfections, particularly in connection with hormonal changes. A gentle cleanser, in the form of a cream or non-stripping gel, is preferable. Formulas enriched with plant oils such as rosehip oil or borage oil, known for their high content of essential fatty acids, help preserve suppleness and support the skin barrier. Aloe vera and plant ceramides can also help maintain comfort.

To care for blemish-prone skin, we recommend choosing gentle but effective cleansers that purify the skin while respecting its natural balance.

Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water before applying a cleanser. Avoid the eye area. Follow the recommended frequency of use for each product. Avoid mixing active ingredients without prior knowledge. If you experience a skin reaction, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.