Aroma-Zone Hordatine Active Ingredient

INCI Name: Hordeum Vulgare Extract

VEGAN

SOURCE

Derived from barley germ, Hordeum vulgare. The germ is a byproduct of the malting process in breweries : an upcycling process.

BIOCHEMICAL COMPOSITION

Hordatins are compounds derived from Hordeum vulgare, belonging to a class of molecules capable of interacting with enzymatic proteins, particularly tyrosinase, by inserting themselves into their structure.

SUSTAINABILITY / TRACEABILITY

The part of the plant used is the sprouted barley grain: the germ is rich in Hordatins. 

Hordatine, derived from Hordeum vulgare, acts directly on a key mechanism of skin pigmentation: tyrosinase activity. This enzyme is involved in the earliest stages of melanin synthesis, the pigment responsible for skin color.

Specifically, Hordatine binds to the protein structure of tyrosinase, thereby blocking its activity. By limiting this enzyme, melanin production is reduced, which helps to diminish the appearance of pigmented areas and even out the complexion.

This mechanism is particularly relevant in the context of UV-B exposure, which is known to stimulate tyrosinase expression and thus exacerbate pigmentary imbalances—that is, the appearance of spots. The action of hordatins thus represents a targeted response to an identified biological mechanism underlying skin pigmentation.

A study* evaluated the efficacy of an emulsion containing 1% Hordeum vulgare extract, applied to the face twice daily for 56 days. Measurements were taken after 28 and 56 days. The results show a significant 36% reduction in the total surface area of pigmented spots, reduced visibility of pigmented spots, and improved skin radiance. Hordatin proved to be four times more effective than the placebo after 28 days, and twice as effective after 56 days.

The lightening effect was confirmed by an objective visual assessment and supported by various measurement methods. A 20% reduction in skin pigmentation was observed, significantly higher than the baseline value and the placebo. The lightening effect of the 1% active ingredient was not limited to pigmented spots but was also visible on the surrounding skin.

*See the Scientific Bibliography for more information.

A Note from Adeline Nalin, Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist at Aroma-Zone

“Hordatine is an extract derived from the sprouts of Hordeum vulgare, a species of barley commonly used in cosmetics for its targeted action on skin pigmentation. This active ingredient has a good skin and eye tolerance profile under recommended conditions of use, in accordance with available toxicological data and the history of barley extract use in dermatological care.”

Adeline Nalin - Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist

A Note from Our Aroma-Zone Toxicologist

“The safety assessment of this natural active ingredient is based on a rigorous analysis of the extract’s origin, its manufacturing process, and its detailed composition, to ensure there are no identified risks to the user.

Hordatin is considered safe for human health when used under normal and reasonably foreseeable conditions of use.”

Adeline Nalin - Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist

A Note from the Dermatologist

“Found in barley extract, this molecule acts on melanin production by inhibiting a key enzyme: tyrosinase. It can therefore help treat spots characterized by an overproduction of this pigment.

It is always important to understand the mechanism behind the appearance of a spot to ensure appropriate care. The causes are varied: inflammation, sun damage, melasma… A dermatologist’s opinion is often necessary.”

Dr. Reyhan Amode - Dermatologist

This active ingredient is known for its targeted action on skin radiance and skin evenness, particularly by helping to reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots. Its mechanism of action follows the same logic as other well-known active ingredients in cosmetics, such as alpha-arbutin, kojic acid, and tranexamic acid.

Some data even suggest efficacy comparable to, or even superior to, these benchmark ingredients, making it an attractive alternative in formulations designed to enhance radiance and even out skin tone.

From a formulation standpoint, this active ingredient has the advantage of being relatively easy to incorporate. It does not require any special precautions, particularly regarding thermal stability, which makes it easy to incorporate into various types of textures.

It also stands out for its positioning: it can serve as a natural alternative to more controversial or potentially irritating active ingredients, such as kojic acid, or to certain synthetic molecules. This makes it a relevant choice for formulations seeking both efficacy and gentleness.

Hordatine, derived from barley (Hordeum vulgare), is primarily used in skincare products designed to improve skin tone evenness. It is therefore primarily intended for skin with pigmentation imbalances, such as visible spots or an uneven complexion. This type of active ingredient is generally beneficial for dull skin lacking radiance or marked by uneven pigmentation.

Its action on tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the synthesis of melanin, allows it to target visible pigment imbalances.

Specifically, this active ingredient may be beneficial in cases of visible pigment spots, uneven skin tone due to non-uniform pigment distribution, or a general lack of skin radiance.

The results of the study* indeed show a reduction in pigmented spots, a decrease in their visibility, and an improvement in radiance, with an effect observed both on the targeted areas and on the surrounding skin.

*See the Scientific Bibliography for more information.

• Brightening active ingredients that act on pigmentation mechanisms

• Inhibition of tyrosinase activity

• Limiting melanin formation

• Contributes to the visual reduction of pigmentation spots

• Improvement in skin tone evenness.

Hordatine is an anti-dark spot active ingredient that is not yet widely available. It has the same effects as molecules currently on the market, but does not cause irritation or dryness, unlike other well-known anti-dark spot actives. It can be found in several types of products : serums, creams... In our catalog, you can find it in our serum: 

Hordatine & Licorice Extract Anti-Dark Spot Serum

With 90% of dark spots reduced and visibly lightened**: this clinically proven serum, specially formulated for all skin tones, offers a triple action targeting dark spots, aging, and radiance. Its formula combines Hordatine, Niacinamide, and Licorice extract to target dark spots on all skin types. For a luminous, even complexion.

** Effect observed in 42 volunteers after 56 days of use.

I'm Delphine Duc, a biological engineer specialising in cosmetology, and I've been passionate about the field of cosmetics for almost 10 years. I started making my own homemade cosmetics using Aroma Zone products to tackle my skin problems. Eventually, I decided to train as a cosmetologist and ultimately to create a bespoke cosmetics brand to address everyone’s individual skin concerns.