Can natural active ingredients really influence the hair growth cycle?

Why is the hair growth cycle so important?

The hair cycle, or hair growth cycle , is the biological process that governs the life cycle of a hair follicle – that is, the area where hair is produced. It is therefore this cycle that determines how long hairs (including the hair on our heads) grow before they die and fall out. It thus governs all the hair on our bodies, with some variations depending on where the hair is located. For example, eyelashes have a much shorter growth phase than the hair on our heads, which explains why they remain short. Hair, on the other hand, can grow to a length of up to 1 metre (rarely more).

• Anagen phase: this is the hair growth phase, during which the follicle is actively producing hair. It lasts approximately 2 to 7 years, with its duration being proportional to the final length of the hair. This is determined primarily by genetic factors.

• Catagen phase: this is a regression phase, during which the follicle gradually becomes inactive. It lasts only 2 to 3 weeks. It can be compared to a regenerative process that allows the follicle to prepare for the next hair cycle.

• Telogen phase: this is a resting phase, during which the follicle is completely inactive, though not dead. It lasts roughly 2 to 3 months on the scalp. The hair, which is only very loosely anchored, eventually falls out. It is estimated that we lose between 50 and 100 hairs a day.

Good to know: scientific literature sometimes describes two additional phases. The exogenous phase (1) (phase 4) is thought to occur after the telogen phase and corresponds to active hair shedding as well as regrowth (the hair falls out, but is in fact already being replaced within the hair follicle). The kenogenic phase (2) (phase 5), on the other hand, marks the precise moment when the follicle is empty, that is to say, just after the hair has fallen out and just before a new hair begins to form.

What is the point of altering these phases?

Most instances of sudden hair loss are actually due to a disruption in the hair growth cycle. When the anagen phase shortens, for example, the hair fails to reach its optimal length (3). Conversely, when too many hairs enter the telogen phase at the same time and this phase lasts longer than necessary, hair loss appears more pronounced (4). The recent concept of the “kenogenic phase” also adds to the theories surrounding androgenetic alopecia: when this phase is too long, it causes a very marked thinning of the hair, resulting in the characteristic sparse appearance (2).

Good to know: Physiological ageing alters the duration of the anagen phase, which explains why hair regrowth becomes increasingly slow and why hair loses its density over time. Other factors such as hormonal fluctuations, stress, seasonal changes or diet can also affect the balance of the hair growth cycle.

However, we have known since 1999, thanks to the pioneering work of Ralf Paus and George Cotsarelis (5), that influencing the hair growth cycle is sufficient to produce significant aesthetic benefits for the hair. Scientists who have continued the research in their footsteps thus suggest the possibility of increasing hair density, hair length and reducing hair loss.

What factors can influence them?

From a purely cosmetic perspective, certain ingredients are reputed to be capable of strengthening the natural hair cycle. These do indeed include natural or naturally derived active ingredients, though not necessarily the ones most widely publicised or best known. Their effects are varied, though they cannot claim to bring about radical or miraculous transformations, contrary to what is sometimes claimed.

Generally speaking, these may include:

1. Extending the anagen phase to promote longer and thicker hair

2. Reducing an excessively long telogen phase to make hair loss less noticeable

3. Supporting the follicle between cycles to help improve density

4. Protect the follicular environment to maintain a healthy-looking scalp.

Some traditional recipes may tend to exaggerate the benefits of plants. Whilst plant extracts often possess properties of interest in hair care, science is more cautious about their potential to influence the hair growth cycle. In fact, of the five plants most commonly associated with this in the collective imagination, only rosemary has demonstrated plausible clinical efficacy.

"Natural active ingredients can prolong the growth phase (anagen) of the hair, and studies prove it!

Pea germ extract stimulates hair growth by activating the Wnt/β-catenin signalling pathway. It promotes the expression of hair growth factors such as IGF-1 and FGF7, whilst reducing that of inhibitory mediators such as IL-1β and BMP4. These mechanisms help to support and prolong the anagen phase of the hair cycle*

D-panthenol, a precursor of vitamin B5, stimulates hair growth by acting directly on the hair follicle cells. It improves the viability and proliferation of cells in the dermal papilla and the outer epithelial sheath, whilst reducing markers of apoptosis (caspase 3/9) and senescence (p21/p16). D-panthenol activates factors that induce the anagen phase, such as ALP, β-catenin and versican, thereby prolonging this key phase of the hair cycle. It also increases the expression of VEGF, promoting peripheral vascularisation of the follicle, and reduces TGF-β1, a growth inhibitor. These combined mechanisms help to support and prolong the anagen phase and stimulate hair regeneration**

The methanolic extract of Eclipta alba (Bhringaraj) stimulates the transition of hair follicles from the telogen phase to the anagen phase, thereby increasing hair growth in mice.***

A 7-month double-blind, randomised controlled trial involving 86 patients with alopecia areata: participants in the active group performed a daily scalp massage using a mixture of essential oils of thyme, rosemary, lavender and cedarwood, diluted in jojoba and grapeseed vegetable oils. After 7 months, 44 per cent of patients treated with this blend showed visible clinical improvement, compared with 15 per cent in the control group.**** Essential oils have numerous contraindications; always ensure you consult their technical data sheets carefully before use."

*(Kim Y, Hyeon A, Yoon D, Lee JM, Woo MS, Park YJ, Hong JP, Seok J, Kim BJ. Pea sprout extract promotes hair follicle regeneration via prolongation of the anagen phase and dual modulation of oxidative and inflammatory signalling. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology. 2025). doi:10.4014/jmb.2508.08011. PMID: 41309367. PMCID: PMC12685587

** (Shin JY, Kim J, Choi YH, Kang NG, Lee S. Dexpanthenol promotes cell growth by preventing cell senescence and apoptosis in cultured human hair follicle cells. Cells & Molecular Biology. 2021;43(3):97. doi:10.3390/cimb43030097. PMID: 34698060. PMCID: PMC8929036).

***(Datta K, Singh AT, Mukherjee A, Bhat B, Ramesh B, Burman AC. Eclipta alba extract with potential for hair growth-promoting activity. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2009;124(3):450–456. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2009.05.023. PMID: 19481595).

**** (Hay IC, Jamieson M, Ormerod AD. Randomised trial of aromatherapy: successful treatment for alopecia areata. Archives of Dermatology. 1998;134(11):1349–1352. doi:10.1001/archderm.134.11.1349. PMID: 9828867).

Dalila Belmokhtar, @dalilahairscience, Doctor of Pharmacy & trichologist

Myth or reality?

Fact… with a touch of myth. Certain natural active ingredients are indeed capable of influencing the hair growth cycle. However, these are almost never the ones popularised by traditional recipes, whose claimed benefits for the hair lack any real scientific basis.

What is true

• Yes, certain little-publicised natural active ingredients have been the subject of studies demonstrating their ability to prolong the anagen (growth) phase of the hair growth cycle.

• Yes, the cosmetics market offers a few active ingredients and formulations that can claim to have an effect on the anagen (growth) phase and/or the telogen (shedding) phase.

What is false

Most of the ‘old wives’ tales’ recommended for hair growth have no solid scientific basis.

Food for thought

Many of us experience sudden or significant hair loss at some point in our lives. For example, it is estimated that androgenetic alopecia affects one in two 50-year-old men (10). In this context, it is easy to see why the market for hair growth and ‘anti-hair loss’ products represents a major commercial opportunity, with ‘natural’ claims often being prioritised at the expense of scientific validation. Hence the need to emphasise that a cosmetic product remains just that, regardless of whether it is natural or comes from more conventional sources. Unlike a medicine, any effect it may have on the hair cycle is limited to optimising an existing biological process, without claiming to bring about profound changes. Similarly, no cosmetic product has the technical or regulatory capacity to regrow follicles that have been destroyed or severely miniaturised. It is essential to bear these nuances in mind when making informed choices about your hair care products, whilst avoiding the trap of vague or misleading claims. 

Certain Aroma-Zone products have been clinically proven to be effective in influencing the hair growth cycle. This is the case with our Hair Growth active ingredient (which acts on the anagen and telogen phases) and our Peptides & Pea Extract anti-hair loss serum (which acts on the anagen phase).

Hair growth active ingredient

Proven efficacy: when incorporated at a concentration of 3% into a scalp lotion, it increases the number of hairs in the anagen phase and reduces the number of hairs in the telogen phase. Use it to customise your hair oils, oil treatments, oil-based serums or hair masks (it dissolves in oil). Recommended dosage: 0.5–5 per cent of the total weight of your preparation. 100 per cent natural, extracted from the microalgae Nannochloropsis oceanica.

Discover the hair growth active ingredient

Provitamin B5 (Panthenol)

It is renowned for slowing hair loss, promoting hair growth, improving the appearance of the hair shafts and soothing discomfort at the roots. This active ingredient is very easy to add to your recipes for shampoos, conditioners, serums or scalp lotions. Recommended dosage: 2–5 per cent of the total weight of your formulation; suitable for all hair types and sensitive scalps.

Discover the Provitamin B5 (Panthenol) Active Ingredient

Peptides & Pea Extract Anti-Hair Loss Hair Serum

Proven effectiveness: it prolongs the anagen phase of existing hair, improves the hair formation process and helps anchor the hair follicle whilst reducing DHT production. Result: longer, thicker, stronger hair and less hair loss. Its light, non-greasy texture is suitable for daily use, applied directly to the scalp. Dermatologically tested, vegan formula. Made in France. Refillable bottle.

Discover the Peptides & Pea Extract Anti-Hair Loss Serum

Organic Brahmi & Bhringaraj Oil (oily macerate)

This is an organic virgin castor oil in which organic Brahmi and organic Bhringaraj plants have been macerated. This macerate is traditionally recommended to reduce hair loss, stimulate hair growth and strengthen the hair from root to tip. It can be used as an ingredient in your homemade hair care products, for example to make oil treatments or scalp serums. A 100% pure and natural product, free from any chemical treatments or additives, and certified organic.

Discover Organic Brahmi & Bhringaraj Oil (oily macerate)

Products designed to support the natural hair growth cycle are applied to the roots, in direct contact with the scalp. Just like the skin on your face, the skin on your scalp can be sensitive and react to certain active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients. That’s why it’s best to carry out a sensitivity test before first use, by testing the product on a small area of skin. Results regarding hair growth and hair loss are never immediate. Aim for consistency and patience to maximise the results of your routine, resisting the temptation to replace each product too quickly. 2If hair loss persists or worsens, we recommend that you consult a doctor.

Whilst there is no proven effectiveness regarding the anagen or telogen phases, scalp massage remains a worthwhile practice to complement the application of your hair care products. Direct mechanical stimulation of the follicle is thought to increase blood flow, which is believed to activate the hair follicle (11). It should be noted that, at this stage, these are still hypotheses and physiological extrapolations. However, another, much more concrete study has succeeded in demonstrating that a 4-minute massage per day for 24 weeks can increase hair thickness (12).

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice, and guides to help consumers choose the right beauty products. With a strong interest in natural, organic, and clean cosmetics, she analyses and shares trends and innovations in the sector.