Why does my skin remain dry even though I use a moisturiser?

Lack of lipids vs. lack of water

As dry skin can also be dehydrated, it is more useful to focus on the nature and persistence of skin discomfort.

To put it simply, we tend to say that dehydrated skin lacks water and that dry skin lacks lipids. In reality, it can be quite difficult to draw a clear distinction between the two, as dryness and dehydration are based on similar mechanisms. It’s even possible for both conditions to coexist on your skin: in this case, it would be both dry and dehydrated (1).

Does your skin seem to ‘drink up’ your moisturiser? That’s not quite enough of a clue to make a definitive judgement. A moisturiser contains ingredients that can benefit both dehydrated AND dry skin. So, rather than focusing on the distinction between xerosis (dry skin) and a lack of water, we advise you to turn your attention to how your skin feels.

Signs to look out for when you apply your cream

A moisturiser can be a useful tool for identifying any signs of damage to the skin barrier.

If applying your usual cream causes irritation, a burning sensation or itching, your skin barrier is probably damaged. Products specifically designed for dry skin, which provide more intensive care, will be more suitable for you. However, it may be necessary to rule out the possibility of a deeper skin imbalance by consulting a dermatologist first (2).

Skincare products for dry skin will also be more suitable if you feel rough patches, small flakes of dead skin or even cracks beneath your fingers. Skin that is simply dehydrated is generally free from these characteristics. It often looks a little dull and creased. This does not prevent it from feeling slightly tight and uncomfortable, even if it looks shiny.

Good to know: Dehydration is a temporary condition that can affect any skin type, and may come and go depending on skincare routines and the seasons. Dry skin, on the other hand, is often a condition present from birth. The recurring nature of these discomforts requires a real ability to adapt.

The formula of your cream isn’t right for you

Lightweight formulas, such as oil-in-water types or those low in occlusive and emollient agents, are often insufficient for dry to very dry skin.

If your skin remains dry despite using a moisturiser, it may simply be that the moisturiser isn’t right for you, or is no longer suitable. A cream is an emulsion that works thanks to the complementary action of its ingredients, including humectants (which attract and retain water in the stratum corneum), emollients (which fill the intercellular spaces) and occlusives (which reduce water loss). The drier your skin appears, the more it needs emollients and occlusives (3).

The presence of humectants remains important in your cream, but it is preferable for it to contain a sufficient amount of lipid components to restore your skin’s barrier function. For very dry skin, dermatologists even recommend water-in-oil formulations (such as cold creams, which are often thick but very effective at reducing the PIE) (3). The majority of creams on the market are oil-in-water formulations, which are lighter and more sensorial.

Good to know: your skin changes with the seasons and as you get older; its moisturising needs naturally change with it. A moisturiser that suited your skin two years ago may no longer be suitable today, as ageing skin tends to become drier (4). Similarly, a moisturiser that provides sufficient coverage in summer may prove too light for winter: you may then feel that your skin remains dry despite using your moisturiser.

Your other skincare products are cancelling out the benefits of your moisturiser

Dry skin can lose moisture more quickly than the cream can retain it due to inconsistencies in your skincare routine.

Of course, your moisturiser is the cornerstone of your skincare routine. However, don’t forget that most of the other products you apply every day can also have an impact on how dry your skin feels. How? By further weakening that skin barrier that you’re trying, as best you can, to ‘repair’ with your day cream and night cream. In this case, it’s not the effectiveness of your moisturiser that’s the issue, but the rest of your skincare routine.

The cleansing stage is probably the trickiest. Certain surfactants found in foaming cleansers disrupt the lipid balance of the stratum corneum. This is a criticism often levelled at traditional soaps, which are also known to disrupt the pH of the skin’s surface (5). As well as the product itself, your technique matters too. Rubbing your skin too hard or rinsing it with water that’s too hot can exacerbate the dryness you’re trying to alleviate.

Extra tip: certain potentially irritating active ingredients can also make the problem worse, and not just in your cleansers. Check that your current lotion, serum or even your cream doesn’t contain any; if it does, this might explain why your skin still feels so dry despite your moisturising routine.

Why is my skin dry even though I’m moisturising it?

It is more effective to use a topical moisturiser than to increase your water intake to reduce dry skin.

Drinking water is, of course, the key to keeping your skin properly hydrated. Your body stores water in your dermis, from where it gradually rises to hydrate the upper layers. When it reaches the stratum corneum, it is normally bound by substances that act like water magnets, whilst the skin’s lipids slow down its natural evaporation.

If this protective barrier no longer functions properly – as is the case with dry skin – then the absorbed water is bound to evaporate very quickly. This is why drinking water is essential, but it is not enough on its own to guarantee perfectly hydrated and comfortable skin.

If you do not drink enough during the day, you can indeed try to increase your fluid intake: a 2018 study suggests this is a worthwhile effort in cases of dry skin, although the evidence remains very limited (6). The most effective way to moisturise remains the application of a cream (7).

Which deficiency causes dry skin?

Persistent dryness is sometimes the result of a deficiency in omega-6, vitamin A, zinc or protein.

There are many nutritional deficiencies that can lead to skin problems such as dryness or dehydration. However, the fact that your skin remains dry despite using a moisturiser does not automatically mean you have a deficiency. It is one possibility amongst many that may be worth exploring with a doctor.

1. Scientific literature links a deficiency in essential fatty acids in particular to an impairment of the skin’s barrier function, characterised by the presence of flakes and increased transepidermal water loss. Linoleic acid (an omega-6 fatty acid, found in walnuts and in grape seed and safflower oils) is one of the most frequently cited (8). Rest assured: this type of deficiency remains very rare.  

2. It may also be due to a deficiency in vitamin A (9) or protein. Once again, these are observed only in exceptional cases, mainly in instances of malabsorption and malnutrition.

3. In older people, some researchers have also linked xerosis to zinc deficiency (10).

What signs should make you suspect that dry skin isn’t just down to a lack of moisture?

"There are several possible reasons: 

• Over-cleansing. Dry skin should be cleansed with a gentle, non-detergent cleanser, such as a superfatted soap bar. 

• Irritation, which manifests as redness and fine flaking accompanying the dryness.    

• An unsuitable cream formulation. A moisturiser should contain water-retaining ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and fatty acids that limit water loss. 

It should be noted that, sometimes, the ‘cream’ formulation can feel uncomfortable: in such cases, it is possible to separate the water-based and oil-based phases by applying a serum followed by an oil or balm.”

Dr Reyhan Amode, dermatologist and member of the Aroma-Zone College of Dermatologists

The following selection focuses on a balanced combination of humectants and lipid-replenishing agents, which are essential for supporting the skin barrier in dry skin. Gentleness is also key, with a nourishing cleanser that respects the lipid balance of the skin’s surface.

Product spotlight: Plum & Oat Cleansing Oil

A true 3-in-1 treatment, it removes make-up, cleanses and nourishes in a single step. Use it in the morning to revitalise your skin and in the evening to remove the day’s impurities. Its minimalist formula preserves the skin’s precious hydrolipidic film.

Product spotlight: 3.5% concentrated hyaluronic acid serum

A treatment highly concentrated in moisturising active ingredients, ideal for applying under your moisturiser to maximise moisture retention. Suitable for all skin types, it absorbs quickly without causing any tightness.

Product spotlight: Oat & Ceramide NP Lipid-Restoring Balm

Suitable for use on the face and body, this high-tolerance moisturiser helps to reduce dryness and associated discomfort. Its formula, enriched with 35% nourishing lipid-replenishing complex, strengthens the skin’s barrier, leaving it feeling soft and velvety.

Discover our complete minimalist ‘anti-dryness’ routine too

Persistent dryness despite using moisturisers can sometimes be an early sign of a skin condition. For example, xerosis is one of the clinical signs of psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. If you have any doubts, it is best to consult a dermatologist.

Try to make applying your moisturiser part of your daily routine to avoid forgetting it. Consistency is key if you want long-lasting results for your dry skin and to improve your skin’s comfort.

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice, and guides to help consumers choose the right beauty products. With a strong interest in natural, organic, and clean cosmetics, she analyses and shares trends and innovations in the sector.