What are the best anti-wrinkle active ingredients?

Both may seem appealing if you have wrinkles. However, they are not always interchangeable. Find out the essentials you need to know to get off to a good start when selecting your best anti-wrinkle active ingredients.

Anti-ageing active ingredients: a broad spectrum of action against skin ageing

Anti-ageing active ingredients target a wide variety of signs of ageing, not just wrinkles.

Anti-ageing ingredients are a broad category of cosmetic ingredients. They target various mechanisms and signs of skin ageing. Wrinkles are obviously one aspect of this, but the family of anti-ageing agents also covers hyperpigmentation, laxity (sagging skin), changes in skin texture and dryness, amongst others. In practical terms, they can:

• Prevent the signs of ageing (UV filters) 

• Reduce the appearance of established signs of ageing (alpha hydroxy acids, depigmenting agents) 

• Optimise the skin’s environment (moisturising or barrier-supporting agents)

• Target specific mechanisms of ageing (retinoids).

Good to know: an anti-ageing active ingredient can therefore also be an anti-wrinkle active ingredient. This is the case with niacinamide (1). Its remarkable versatility (redness, dark spots, wrinkles and fine lines, yellowing) means it is much more than just an anti-ageing ingredient, and cannot be reduced solely to its anti-wrinkle action.

Anti-wrinkle active ingredients: targeted effects on established wrinkles

Anti-wrinkle active ingredients have a specific effect on wrinkles and fine lines.

Anti-wrinkle active ingredients, on the other hand, have much more targeted effects. They act specifically on existing wrinkles, reducing their depth, number or appearance. Here again, these active ingredients achieve this through very different processes; some act on the surface, whilst others work at a deeper level. For example, they can:

• Reshape the skin’s structure and strengthen the collagen network (retinoids) (2) 

• Hydrate the stratum corneum to plump up the surface of the wrinkle (humectants)

• Smooth out surface irregularities that deepen the wrinkle (glycolic acid) 

• Modulate biological signals sent to the extracellular matrix (e.g. certain peptides).

The best anti-wrinkle product is generally one that supports the biological mechanisms of the extracellular matrix.

For many of us, the best anti-wrinkle product is, above all, the most effective one – the one that delivers visible results. And in this respect, it may seem more strategic not to settle for a fleeting, superficial effect. Instead, look for products formulated with anti-wrinkle active ingredients that directly target the biological processes linked to the formation of wrinkles.

In this case, the target is often the extracellular matrix, located in the dermis, as it is its gradual breakdown that causes your wrinkles to deepen. Over time, its components degrade and interact less effectively. These include fibroblasts, collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) such as hyaluronic acid. It is the skin’s entire supportive structure that weakens.

The best anti-wrinkle products, therefore, are those that are specifically capable of:

1. Maintain the normal functioning of fibroblasts 

2. Regulate the synthesis of collagen, elastin and GAGs 

3. Prevent the breakdown of collagen and the elastin network 

4. Improve the quality and organisation of the matrix components (3).

Retinol, vitamin C and certain peptides (signalling peptides, neuromodulators) are among the anti-wrinkle active ingredients most extensively studied in dermatological and cosmetological research.

The best anti-wrinkle active ingredients aren’t necessarily the same for everyone. In fact, they each work in their own specific way and target different areas of your skin. For example, bakuchiol may prove highly effective for a colleague at work, but be far less effective on your own wrinkles, simply because your wrinkles, unlike your colleague’s, are not caused by a factor addressed by the active ingredient you have chosen. It is therefore important to look beyond marketing hype and prioritise personalised advice.

For maximum effectiveness, choose an active ingredient that targets the right layer of skin and the right tissue mechanism.

You are no doubt familiar with the classic distinction between dynamic wrinkles (expression lines) and structural wrinkles (deep wrinkles). If you’re looking for the best anti-wrinkle active ingredients, it makes more sense to focus not on the behaviour of your wrinkles (whether or not they persist at rest), but rather on their underlying tissue mechanism. It’s by understanding which structure is affected that you’ll be able to choose the best ingredients to support your skin’s ageing process.

Fine lines caused by dehydration

This may apply to you if… Your skin appears parched, with numerous fine lines, which are generally more numerous around the eyes. Your complexion looks dull and your skin feels tight soon after applying your usual moisturiser. Fine lines caused by dehydration can appear even on young skin.

Active ingredients to look out for: prioritise humectants, such as hyaluronic acid. The aim is to hydrate the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis) to restore a ‘plump’ and smooth appearance to the skin’s micro-relief (9).

Wrinkles caused by thinning skin

This may apply to you if… Your skin has become significantly thinner over the years. It probably feels weaker and more fragile. In this case, your wrinkles take the form of fine, often numerous lines.

Active ingredients to look out for: retinol to increase your collagen density, hyaluronic acid to restore texture to your stratum corneum, and AHAs for their potential thickening effect (10).

Wrinkles associated with elastosis

This may apply to you if… You show all the signs of skin that has been heavily exposed to the sun. Elastosis is a typical feature of actinic ageing: the ultraviolet rays emitted by the sun have damaged your skin’s elastin network. The result: very deep wrinkles.

The active ingredients to look for: retinoids and retinol-like ingredients, to reorganise and strengthen your network of elastic fibres. Retinol is primarily studied for its effects on collagen, but a 2011 publication suggests it has a positive effect on fibrillin (11), which acts as the framework for the formation of elastin fibres.

"Wrinkles are natural creases on the face that develop over time. The decision to prevent or treat these signs is the result of individual choices and societal pressures. 

 There are several types of wrinkles: 

• Expression lines, which result from the contraction of facial muscles. These include the well-known frown lines, crow’s feet and horizontal forehead lines. If these cause cosmetic concern, botulinum toxin injections administered by a qualified doctor can reduce their visibility by precisely relaxing the muscle fibres involved.

• Static wrinkles : these are linked to chronological ageing and photoageing. Lifestyle factors influence their development. Quitting smoking, a varied diet rich in antioxidants, sufficient sleep and sun protection measures may help delay their onset. Cosmetics may be recommended as an adjunct to the measures outlined above. They work by stimulating collagen synthesis (retinoids, fruit acids) or by limiting oxidative processes (carotenoids, polyphenols, vitamin C). 

• Wrinkles associated with tissue ptosis. These are caused by gravity and result from the accumulation of tissue above an anatomical barrier. The best-known example is the nasolabial fold. The methods available to reduce these wrinkles are surgical."

Dr Reyhan Amode, dermatologist and member of the Aroma-Zone College of Dermatologists

Choosing natural products can also mean choosing effectiveness. Whether you prefer a ready-to-use skincare product or making your own anti-wrinkle treatment, explore our selection to achieve smoother skin.

Italian Helichrysum (Immortelle) essential oil

Toning and restorative, this is one of the most renowned essential oils for its benefits in combating the signs of sagging skin. Recommended dosage: a maximum of 2 per cent of the total weight of your formulation. Do not use on pregnant or breastfeeding women, children under 6 years of age, or people with epilepsy.

Discover the Organic Italian Helichrysum Essential Oil from Corsica.

Relax’rides active ingredient

It helps to reduce the micro-contractions in the skin that cause expression lines to deepen or form. It has the advantage of providing a visibly smoothing effect shortly after application, whilst offering a gentle and reversible action, without any paralysing side effects. Recommended dosage: 2 to 5 per cent of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the Relax’rides Active Ingredient.

Kiosmetine

Ideal for mature and dry to very dry skin, it smooths the skin’s micro-relief whilst optimising skin hydration. It also helps to tone the extracellular matrix by stimulating pro-collagen synthesis and inhibiting the breakdown of existing collagen. Recommended concentration: 0.5 to 2 per cent of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the Kiosmetine Active Ingredient.

Cosmetic active ingredient: Fat-soluble hyaluronic acid

An essential active ingredient in anti-wrinkle skincare, it smooths and plumps the skin’s appearance, with optimised penetration thanks to its oily form. This version is 100% naturally sourced and compatible with your organic formulations. Recommended dosage: 1% of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the Liposoluble Hyaluronic Acid Cosmetic Active Ingredient.

AHA active ingredient – fruit acids

This is the ultimate ‘new skin’ ingredient. By promoting skin renewal, it smooths out fine lines and reduces the dark pigmentation of blemishes. Recommended concentration: 1–5 per cent of the total weight of your formulation for regular use, or 5–10 per cent for an occasional exfoliating effect. Use daily sun protection and avoid sun exposure for up to a week after the last application.

Discover the AHA fruit acids active ingredient.

Active ingredient: Ascorbic acid – Pure vitamin C

It is known to support natural collagen synthesis whilst limiting the effects of oxidative stress. This handy active ingredient can be mixed directly into one of our neutral bases for an instant anti-wrinkle treatment. Recommended dosage: 1 spoonful (0.05 mL) mixed with 3 pump presses of cream or serum as part of our MIX – APPLY Beauty Routine.

Discover the Active Ingredient: Pure Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C).

Niacinamide

This versatile active ingredient works in several ways to improve the overall appearance of the skin. It reduces the appearance of wrinkles, lightens the intensity of pigmentation spots, soothes redness and visibly refines enlarged pores. Recommended concentration: 1 to 7 per cent of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the active ingredient Niacinamide.

Cosmetic active ingredient: Vegan collagen peptides

Its biomimetic profile enables it to mimic the effects of collagen and restore firmness to the appearance of the skin, resulting in skin that appears firmer with continued use. Recommended dosage: 1–10 per cent of the total weight of your formulation.

Discover the vegan collagen peptides cosmetic active ingredient.

Wrinkled skin is often drier, thinner and therefore more sensitive. Take the time to test any new skincare product before incorporating it permanently into your routine. Apply a drop to a small, hidden area of skin and check for any adverse reactions.

It would be a real shame to focus exclusively on ‘intensive treatments’ to reduce the appearance of your wrinkles. Research shows that a preventative approach remains a valuable complement to ensure your strategy is sustainable. Sun protection, to name but one example, helps to limit the progression of ageing and the worsening of existing wrinkles (12).

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice, and guides to help consumers choose the right beauty products. With a strong interest in natural, organic, and clean cosmetics, she analyses and shares trends and innovations in the sector.