How long does it take before you can really judge the effectiveness of a hair loss treatment?

Hair follicles follow a slow cycle, which explains why the effects of hair care products are never immediate.

Anagen phase : the hair grows. This phase lasts between 2 and 5 years. It is characterised by intense metabolic activity at the hair bulb. Under normal circumstances, around 85 per cent of the hair is in the anagen phase. 

Catagen phase: the hair stops growing. This phase is fairly short (2 to 3 weeks) and affects only 1 per cent of the total hair at any given time. Although the hair is no longer growing, it remains rooted in the follicle until the telogen phase. 

Telogen phase: the hair falls out. This phase lasts 2 to 3 months, during which the dead hair remains anchored in the follicle until it falls out. This renewal phase affects around 14 per cent of the total hair. 

When the hair cycle is disrupted, the anagen phase is significantly shortened. 

CONCLUSION: All this explains why a hair loss treatment must be assessed over at least 6 months, or even 12 months, to draw conclusions about its actual effectiveness. After 3 months (which corresponds to the duration of the telogen phase), it is possible to observe certain results. 

The effectiveness of hair loss treatments is assessed using objective, standardised measures that have been validated by clinical research. 

The main criteria assessed in clinical trials

* Microscopic examination of the scalp, hair and hair roots.

** A non-invasive and painless digital counting method used to assess hair loss.

A closer look at the clinical results of the Peptides & Pea Extract Anti-Hair Loss Serum

• Hair density: instrumental tests showed a 17 per cent increase in hair density after a 90-day treatment course. The test was carried out on 20 volunteers. Using the same assessment criteria, 3,900 new hairs were counted using a trichogram and trichoscan. 

• Anagen/telogen ratio: the organic pea germ extract contained in Aroma-Zone’s Anti-Hair Loss Hair Serum helps to reactivate the dermal papilla at the base of the hair follicles, thereby stimulating new hair growth. After 3 months, an increase of approximately 8 per cent in the density of hair in the growth phase and a 28 per cent reduction in the density of hair in the shedding phase were measured.

• Overall assessment via photographs of the hair roots: after 45 and 90 days of using the product, the hair roots were observed to have hair sheaths showing good cellular activity, which corresponds to an anagen hair in its initial phase of regeneration. 

• Satisfaction questionnaire: 75 per cent of panellists considered this serum to be effective in preventing hair loss. 70 per cent found that their hair had greater vitality, was healthier and that hair density had improved (out of 20 panellists over a 90-day treatment period).

Anti-hair loss hair serum with peptides & pea extract

A leave-in hair serum, it combines peptides with pea and red clover extracts to thicken and strengthen hair right from the root. It prolongs the growth phase, promotes hair anchorage and slows down chronic hair loss – whether androgenic, stress-related, caused by nutritional deficiencies, hormonal changes or seasonal factors. It has a light, non-greasy texture suitable for all hair types.

Focus on the clinical results of the hair-growth active ingredient

After 150 days of treatment with a lotion containing 3% of the hair-growth active ingredient, the following was observed:

• Hair density: an increase of up to +10 per cent in 70 per cent of panellists (instrumental test using a trichoscan)

• Anagen/telogen ratio: an increase in the number of hairs in the anagen phase and a decrease in the number of hairs in the telogen phase in 100 per cent of panellists (instrumental test using a trichogram on 20 panellists)

• Overall assessment: reduces hair loss by up to 42 per cent in 90 per cent of panellists. 

Hair growth active ingredient

Extracted from an active microalgae rich in phytosterols, this oily hair active ingredient effectively stimulates hair growth by boosting the proliferation of fibroblasts in the hair follicles. As it is oil-soluble, this active ingredient blends very easily into your hair oil formulations, oil treatments and oil-based serums. It is suitable for all hair types, particularly hair that is damaged, brittle or where you wish to stimulate growth. Dosage: 0.5 to 5 per cent of the total weight of the formulation.

Discover the hair growth activator

Biological causes

Hair loss can occur following a triggering event (severe stress, illness, nutritional deficiency, hormonal changes) or be established and chronic. It is important to distinguish between the two. 

Androgenetic alopecia: generally due to a hormonal predisposition, it is the hormone DHT (dihydrotestosterone) that is responsible. When produced in excess due to a genetic predisposition that makes hair follicles more sensitive to this hormone, the size and lifespan of the follicles decrease, gradually leading to thinning hair and reduced regrowth.

Telogen effluvium: this is a diffuse and temporary form of hair loss caused by an episode of stress, illness, nutritional deficiencies or temporary hormonal fluctuations (post-partum).

Individual variations

The stage of hair loss : in advanced stages, it is best to consult a healthcare professional, as severely weakened follicles do not always respond to conventional treatments.

Styling habits: aggressive straightening, the use of products that ‘smother’ the hair, and hairstyles that pull on the follicle (the traction alopecia is a recurring concern amongst Black women) (2) can hinder the effectiveness of hair loss treatments.

Diet or long-standing deficiencies: deficiencies in iron, zinc, fatty acids, selenium, and vitamins A, E, B3, B8, B9 and D create conditions conducive to hair loss. Furthermore, an anti-inflammatory diet, rich in antioxidants and protein, is a useful strategy for limiting hair loss. (3)(6)

Chronic stress: researchers at the Harvard Stem Cell Institute (HSCI) have identified the biological mechanism explaining how chronic stress affects hair follicle stem cells. (4)

Hormonal factors: Hormones are closely linked to hair growth and have a significant impact on the hair cycle and the structure of hair follicles. Numerous hormones control hair growth, the hair cycle and hair density. They can therefore influence an individual’s response to treatment. (5)

Adherence to the treatment: Stopping the treatment too early, applying less product than recommended, or failing to apply it daily are all factors that can affect the treatment’s effectiveness. Indeed, the results of clinical studies were obtained under specific conditions (duration, dose and frequency of application). It is therefore necessary to apply the treatment under the same conditions to ensure its chances of success. 

Diet and micronutrients

As mentioned above, many vitamins and minerals are essential for the normal hair cycle. In particular, Iron (especially in women), Zinc, vitamin D (which is thought to play a role in the hair growth cycle), biotin or vitamin B8 (involved in protein synthesis in the hair follicles), and fatty acids (3) should be obtained through diet or supplementation to ensure good hair health.  Deficiencies must be confirmed by a blood test in order to identify the appropriate supplements where necessary. Diets rich in antioxidants protect against hair loss, whilst pro-inflammatory diets increase the risk, probably by promoting the development of metabolic syndrome. By changing one’s diet – and in particular by reducing the intake of pro-inflammatory foods (such as trans and saturated fatty acids or refined sugars) and increasing consumption of anti-inflammatory foods (fruit and vegetables), one could help prevent hair loss and alleviate its psychological impact. (6) It should be noted that extreme diets leading to rapid weight loss can increase hair loss due to nutritional deficiencies and stress on the body.

Lifestyle

Stress is one of the most common triggers of hair loss, as it increases cortisol production in the body. By breaking down hyaluronic acid and proteoglycans in the skin, cortisol has a negative impact on the development of hair follicles. Stress can also exacerbate forms of alopecia. Furthermore, hair loss persists due to the stress it causes in individuals, thus creating a vicious circle (7). It is also important to ensure you get restful sleep and take regular exercise.

Hair care

Simple steps can help maintain a healthy scalp. Using irritant-free products, wearing loose hairstyles or giving yourself gentle scalp massages can improve local blood circulation in your scalp. 

A word from the dermatologist

"Hair loss is a symptom that is often trivialised, yet it warrants an examination of the scalp and hair, and, if necessary, a blood test – usually to check for iron deficiency or a thyroid condition. In the case of so-called ‘seasonal’ hair loss, an anti-hair loss serum can speed up regrowth. It should be applied whilst gently massaging the scalp to stimulate blood circulation, ensuring better absorption. It takes three months to assess the effectiveness of the treatment.”

Dr Reyhan Amode, dermatologist and member of the Aroma-Zone College of Dermatologists

A word from the trichologist

"How can you tell the difference between simple stabilisation and genuine regrowth? A complete hair cycle lasts an average of three months (anagen, catagen and telogen phases). It is therefore physiologically inconsistent to assess the effectiveness of a hair loss treatment before at least 12 weeks of regular use. However, the timeframe varies depending on the cause of the hair loss. In the case of reactive hair loss (acute stress, iron or protein deficiencies, post-partum, illness, severe fatigue), stabilisation of hair loss can be observed between 6 and 8 weeks, whilst visible and significant regrowth generally appears around 4 to 6 months, provided that the underlying cause is addressed at the same time. For hormonal hair loss, it takes an average of 6 months for hair loss to slow down; signs of regrowth are more gradual and often subtle at first, and prolonged treatment – sometimes long-term – is often necessary to maintain the results. In practice: 3 months to assess a trend, 6 months to assess a result.

Furthermore, the stabilisation phase involves a reduction in the number of hairs lost whilst washing or brushing, fewer hairs found on the floor, as well as a slowing of hair loss in areas already affected, with existing hair appearing stronger and less prone to breakage. True regrowth involves the appearance of new, short and fine hairs (hairs in the early anagen phase), a gradual thickening of thinning areas and an improvement measurable by trichoscopy (increase in the number of hairs per cm², decrease in the percentage of miniaturised hairs).

Dalila Belmokhtar, @dalilahairscience, Doctor of Pharmacy & trichologist

If the hair loss treatment you have chosen is not effective, you should seek medical advice. Your doctor may suggest blood tests and further investigations to identify the causes of your hair loss. 

A significant link has been demonstrated between following a Mediterranean diet and a reduced risk of androgenetic alopecia. This diet includes an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables, which are rich in polyphenols and possess notable antioxidant properties. These findings are consistent with those indicating that most patients suffering from hair loss had a low intake of fruit and vegetables.(6) It therefore seems essential to add colour to your plate in every way possible.

Emilie is a biochemistry and natural active ingredients engineer, as well as a naturopath, nutrition consultant, and writer specialising in health, food, and well-being. She spent over 10 years working in the pharmaceutical industry and scientific communication, giving her a broad, well-rounded view of health, one she's able to speak about with both rigour and clarity. Science is her foundation, words her tools. She champions an approach to health that's more preventive, more considered, more scientific, and, of course, more natural!