Acne and adolescence: what's the link?

Puberty is a natural stage of development that marks the transition from childhood to adolescence. It is a period of physical, hormonal, and emotional changes that gradually prepare the body for sexual maturity.

Under the influence of hormones (mainly estrogen in girls and testosterone in boys), the body changes: rapid growth, development of secondary sexual characteristics, changes in the skin and sebum production, etc. It is this hormonal stimulation of the sebaceous glands in particular that promotes the appearance of acne in many adolescents.

Puberty does not begin at the same age or manifest itself in the same way in all young people. It generally starts earlier in girls than in boys and develops gradually over several years.

The main differences between girls and boys during puberty

Girls

Acne is a multifactorial skin condition that is common in adolescence and results from several mechanisms acting simultaneously on the hair follicles and sebaceous glands. It appears when the skin's natural balance is altered, promoting pore blockage and the development of inflammatory reactions.

Increased sebum production

During puberty, increased androgen hormones stimulate the activity of the sebaceous glands. These glands produce more sebum, an oily substance that is naturally present on the skin's surface. When secreted in excess, sebum accumulates in the pores and causes them to become clogged, leading to many types of blemishes.

Follicle blockage and inflammatory reaction

The accumulation of sebum and dead cells in the pores creates an environment conducive to the development of certain bacteria naturally present on the skin, notably Cutibacterium acnes. Their proliferation is accompanied by a local inflammatory reaction, responsible for the redness and lesions characteristic of acne.

The influence of external factors

Certain lifestyle factors can promote or aggravate skin imbalances. Stress, certain eating habits, the use of unsuitable cosmetic products, and repeated rubbing of the skin can contribute to clogged pores or increased inflammation.

The role of individual predisposition

Sensitivity to acne varies from person to person. Genetic factors can influence sebum production, the skin's inflammatory reactivity, or the tendency for pores to become clogged, which explains why acne is more pronounced in some teenagers.

Acne manifests itself in different types of skin lesions, the appearance and intensity of which vary from one teenager to another. It most often appears on areas rich in sebaceous glands, such as the face, back, shoulders, and chest. Among the most common manifestations are:

• Blackheads (open comedones) : clogged pores whose contents oxidize on contact with the air, forming small dark spots visible on the surface of the skin, particularly on the nose, forehead, or chin

• Whiteheads (closed comedones): small, clear bumps under the skin, caused by a buildup of sebum and dead skin cells in a closed pore

• Inflammatory red spots (papules): red lesions, sometimes sensitive to touch, which indicate an inflammatory reaction around the blocked follicle

• Pustules: red spots topped with a white or yellowish tip, corresponding to the presence of inflammatory secretions

• Nodules or cysts: deeper, larger, and sometimes painful lesions associated with more intense and deeper inflammation of the skin

• Excess sebum and shiny skin: a shiny appearance, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), with often more visible pores and an uneven skin texture

• Redness and skin sensitivity: more reactive skin, with localized redness, sometimes accompanied by a feeling of heat or discomfort

• Residual marks after pimples: pigmented spots, uneven skin texture or scars, sometimes linked to inflammation or manipulation of lesions.

To care for your skin daily with simple, targeted steps, feel free to try our natural, comprehensive routine—easy to adopt and tailored to the needs of skin prone to imbalances:

1. Gentle cleansing: Start by cleansing your face morning and evening with our Gentle Prebiotic, Zinc & Cucumber Cleansing Gel, which will help purify your skin while respecting its natural balance. Avoid contact with the eyes. Avoid contact with the eyes. In case of contact with the eyes, rinse thoroughly with clean water.

2. Target imbalances: Then apply a few drops of Concentrated Serum Niacinamide 10%, Copper & Zinc.  Lightweight and easy to incorporate into your routine, it helps to even out the complexion and improve the overall appearance of the skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use. Keep out of reach of children. Suitable for combination to oily, non-sensitive skin prone to acne. Not suitable for skin prone to erythrocouperosis redness.

3. Moisturise without weighing skin down: Follow with Zinc Hyaluronate & Plant-Based Salicylic Acid Fluid Cream, a lightweight, non-greasy moisturiser that hydrates the skin while leaving a feeling fresh. Ideal for combination to oily skin. Avoid the eye area; in case of contact with the eyes, rinse immediately with clean water.

4. Act from within: The Clear Skin dietary supplement combines plant extracts, from burdock to zinc, to support the skin from within. A natural solution to support daily skin balance. Take 2 capsules per day with a glass of water. Not a substitute for a varied and balanced diet and a healthy lifestyle. Do not exceed the recommended daily dose. For adults only. Not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women, or in cases of heart failure or oedematous renal failure. Not recommended in cases of allergy to salicylic derivatives or known cross-allergy, particularly to plants of the Asteraceae family. Keep out of reach of children.

To find out more, discover our anti-blemish routine.

10% Azelaic Acid Serum (30 ml)

This treatment helps refine skin texture, mattify and prevent the appearance of visible imperfections. It also helps even out the complexion and improve the appearance of pores. Suitable for skin prone to shine and irregularities. Use gradually according to skin tolerance.

Discover 10% Azelaic Acid Serum

Vitamin B12 & Prebiotics Concentrated Serum (30 ml)

For sensitive and reactive skin, this serum helps to soothe feelings of discomfort and support the balance of the skin barrier. Prebiotics help to maintain the skin's ecosystem, while vitamin B12 helps to improve its comfort and appearance. Suitable for skin prone to redness.

Surfine pink clay (200 g)

Gentle and purifying, pink clay helps absorb excess sebum while respecting sensitive skin. Used as a mask, it helps to deeply cleanse the skin and tighten the appearance of pores, for a clearer and more even complexion. Ideal as a weekly treatment for delicate skin prone to imperfections.

Active ingredient Activated charcoal (50 g)

Known for its powerful absorbent properties, activated charcoal helps absorb excess sebum and unclog pores. Used in a purifying mask, it helps deeply cleanse the skin and visibly improve the clarity of the complexion, while respecting the skin's balance.

Mineral Sunscreen Lotion for Face & Body SPF 30 (100 ml)

Formulated with a 100% natural mineral filter, this product effectively protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays. Its light, non-comedogenic texture with an invisible finish makes it comfortable to apply every day, both on the face and body. It helps protect the skin from the effects of the sun, particularly photoaging, and is particularly suitable for oily skin.

There is no miracle solution to guarantee the total disappearance of blemishes. But in mild to moderate cases, certain habits can help limit blemishes and preserve the skin's balance.

• Avoid touching your pimples: touching, scratching, or squeezing blackheads can irritate the skin and promote the spread of bacteria. These actions also increase the risk of residual marks.

• Choose non-comedogenic makeup: if you wear makeup, choose products that are suitable for blemish-prone skin, which are both light and mattifying. Also remember to clean your brushes and makeup accessories regularly to remove impurities and product residue

• Limit sun exposure: the sun can promote the appearance of pigmentation marks after acne breakouts. It is recommended to seek shade during the hottest hours of the day, wear a wide-brimmed hat, and apply appropriate sunscreen when exposed to the sun.

• Eat a balanced diet: limiting fast sugars, ultra-processed foods, and excess dairy products can help maintain skin balance and reduce factors that contribute to blemishes.

• Stay hydrated: drinking enough water throughout the day helps the body function properly and contributes to the overall balance of the skin

• Get regular exercise: movement promotes circulation, helps regulate stress, and contributes to overall well-being, all of which indirectly contribute to skin balance

• Choose clean fabrics that allow the skin to breathe: Pillowcases, towels, and clothing that come into frequent contact with the skin can accumulate sebum, sweat, and impurities. Changing them regularly and choosing lightweight materials helps reduce the risk of skin irritation.

• Clean your phone and objects that come into contact with your face regularly: Screens and surfaces that are handled on a daily basis can accumulate bacteria, sebum, and impurities that can come into contact with the skin and promote the appearance of blemishes. Cleaning them frequently helps to limit this contact

• Wash your hands before touching your face: Hands carry many microorganisms and impurities. Keeping them clean helps prevent them from transferring to the skin and limits the appearance or worsening of blemishes

• Make sure you cleanse your skin gently, morning and evening: using non-abrasive skincare products suitable for young skin helps eliminate excess sebum and impurities while preserving the skin's balance

• Thoroughly remove makeup from the skin every evening: removing makeup, impurities, and excess sebum at the end of the day helps prevent clogged pores and limits skin imbalances

• Maintain a balanced lifestyle: getting enough sleep and managing stress effectively promote the skin's natural regeneration mechanisms and help maintain its balance.

Consistency is one of the key elements in caring for acne-prone skin. For teenagers, it is recommended to establish a routine as soon as the first visible signs appear: blackheads, occasional pimples, or oily skin. Early treatment generally allows for better control of blemishes and limits the risk of more pronounced inflammatory lesions or residual marks.

Ideally, the treatment should be applied twice a day:

• In the morning: to protect the skin from external aggressions and help regulate sebum production throughout the day.

• In the evening: after gentle cleansing, to purify the skin, soothe skin discomfort, and support the skin's natural regeneration mechanisms during the night.

Good to know: Certain natural active ingredients, such as zinc or purifying hydrosols (lavender, rosemary, etc.), are particularly suitable for daily use on young, acne-prone skin due to their balancing and gentle action.

Acne is often a normal part of adolescence. However, when blemishes become more severe, persistent, or difficult to live with, it may be helpful to seek medical advice to assess the situation and consider appropriate treatment. Certain signs may indicate that support from a healthcare professional is recommended. This is particularly the case when acne persists for several months without improvement, when it becomes painful, highly inflammatory, or spreads to several areas of the body such as the back or chest. The presence of deep lesions, such as cysts, or visible marks and scars may also warrant a consultation. The dermatologist will assess the nature and severity of the lesions and then recommend appropriate treatment. Depending on your needs, medical treatment may be considered in addition to gentle, non-irritating care to maintain the comfort and proper functioning of your skin.

The emotional impact should not be overlooked either. When acne affects self-confidence, well-being, or quality of life, it is important not to face these difficulties alone. A doctor or dermatologist can provide support and, if necessary, refer the patient to additional support services. In certain situations, particularly when skin symptoms develop rapidly or do not improve despite usual care, more personalized follow-up may be recommended. Teenagers may also need to be listened to and supported during this sometimes sensitive period. Psychological support may then be offered to help them better cope with the daily effects of acne.

A word from the dermatologist

According to a study published in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, approximately 85% of adolescents aged 12 to 24 experience some form of acne at some point in their lives (James et al., 2016). This phenomenon is directly linked to the increase in androgen hormones during puberty, which stimulates sebum production by the sebaceous glands. The accumulation of sebum combined with a proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes promotes the appearance of inflammatory lesions. Studies have also shown that genetic factors can account for up to 80% of acne cases (Lynn et al., 2019). Appropriate treatment, combining a healthy lifestyle, gentle skin care, and natural active ingredients, can help to visibly improve the appearance of the skin in adolescents."

Dr. Agathe Aoun - Dermatologist and Venereologist

Natural skincare products are generally well tolerated, but certain precautions are necessary. Avoid applying concentrated active ingredients to irritated, fragile, or damaged skin. Before using a product for the first time, test it on a small area to check for skin tolerance. Finally, if you use an exfoliating product in the evening, remember to apply sunscreen the next morning to protect your skin from UV rays.

We cannot stress this enough: sun protection is essential, especially if you have spots or blemishes. Even though the sun may seem to temporarily improve the appearance of the skin, it actually promotes the appearance of lasting pigmentation spots. Stay in the shade and apply sun protection that is suitable for your skin type.

After graduating from ESCP Business School in 2020, Louise began her career as a writer in 2021. Today, she writes a newsletter where she shares cultural recommendations and more personal articles, such as dating apps, therapy, and career guidance. She also writes for the media, brands and agencies on subjects such as well-being, mental health, culture, and society.