Which hair dye should you choose for grey hair?

The key figure: 50% of people aged 50 have 50% grey hair. This average includes both natural hair greying (ageing) and cases of premature greying.

This 50/50/50 rule explains the high demand for hair color treatments for grey hair. This is known as “canities,” an age-related loss of pigmentation that causes hair to turn grey and eventually white. This phenomenon is primarily due to a physiological decline in melanin production. However, other factors may contribute to the causes of grey hair (genetics, environmental factors, etc.).

Choosing the right hair dye isn’t simply a matter of matching the initial color. Grey hair is, in fact, more fragile and may not tolerate certain chemical treatments well. It is more porous and thicker, which makes it brittle. Permanent dyes, which alter the hair’s structure, are therefore not necessarily the best choice. Conversely, plant-based dyes offer a gentler, more respectful option for covering grey hair.

Although many of us feel self-conscious about common misconceptions regarding our gray hair, let’s not forget that it is an entirely natural phenomenon! It would therefore be a shame to reduce hair colouring to a mere cover-up for grey hair. Above all, it’s a way to continue expressing your personality and experimenting with new hairstyles, by varying colours and styles. Dyeing your grey hair is a very personal choice, as is the decision to wear grey hair with pride. If you’re hesitant to take the plunge into colouring, also read: How to embrace your transition to grey hair?

Good to know: Hair colour for grey hair isn’t just for women. Men can use it too! For example, to achieve a more even look with salt-and-pepper hair. Note that some “men’s” hair colours can also be applied to beards.

• It’s natural: It consists of a blend of plant powders, such as henna, chamomile, or indigo. Simply mix it with warm water to create a natural colouring paste. You can also choose certified organic plant-based colours.

• It is gentle on the hair: It does not damage the hair fibre, as it simply settles on the surface of the cuticle, like a coloured veil. The plant-based pigments cover grey hair without the dye needing to penetrate the cortex.

• It reduces the risk of reactions: This type of grey hair dye contains no controversial compounds. It is also ammonia-free—a substance commonly found in perms and suspected of irritating the scalp and respiratory tract.

• It enhances the hair’s beauty: The tannins naturally present in plant powders not only help the pigments adhere but also improve the hair’s shine. Dyeing plants such as henna are also known to strengthen and thicken the hair shaft.

Several types of hair colour can theoretically work for grey hair. Plant-based, temporary (wash-out), semi-permanent, and tone-on-tone dyes are particularly well-suited for dull, lackluster grey hair. 

If you have a sensitive scalp and/or a tendency toward allergies, it’s best to opt for a plant-based dye, which also has the advantage of minimising visible regrowth. Another option: opt for a semi-permanent dye, which can also help neutralise certain unwanted tones, such as yellow tones in greying hair. 

If you have a lot of grey hair, permanent hair dye is generally the best option for achieving maximum coverage. However, it remains controversial due to its effects on the skin, hair health, and the respiratory system. 

This organic, plant-based hair dye covers grey hair from the very first application. It leaves hair with beautiful, naturally shimmering tones. Made from 8 ayurvedic plant powders and precious hennas, it works as a true colour treatment for the hair. Its coating, protective and strengthening properties reveal softer, more supple, shinier and thicker hair. Shown here in Organic Natural Brown Henna – Natural Hair Dye, it's also available in a range of other vibrant shades: copper, ebony black, golden blonde, honey brown, dark brown, auburn and caramel. A 100% plant-based formula, certified organic and vegan (free from animal-derived ingredients).

Discover our 100% plant-based and organic hair dye

1. Prepare your hair carefully. It must be clean, dry, and thoroughly detangled. Keep hair clips handy if needed to make it easier to divide your hair into sections. Place a towel over your shoulders (choose one you don’t mind getting stained) and put on suitable gloves.

2. Measure out the correct amount of powder. This varies depending on the length of your hair. If you choose our ready-to-use plant-based hair dyes, use 1 packet for short hair, 2 packets for medium-length hair, and 4 packets for long hair.

3. Make your dye paste. Simply mix the powder with lukewarm water (about 35–40°C). Add the water gradually, mixing with a wooden utensil or a spatula. You should end up with a smooth, even consistency, free of lumps.

4. Apply your mixture. Don’t hesitate to apply a thick layer to achieve a richer color on your grey hair. Start at the back of your head, working strand by strand. Gradually work your way up toward the scalp, focusing on the roots. Massage the mixture in and gather your hair into a bun under a shower cap.

5. Follow the processing time. For porous hair (which is often the case with grey hair), the minimum processing time generally applies. Our ready-to-use henna products require a processing time of 1.5 to 3 hours. Be sure to read the instructions carefully before use.

6. Rinse thoroughly. Take the time to remove all traces of the dye paste. Follow up with conditioner to make detangling easier if you have longer hair. Otherwise, finish with a simple rinse using vinegar water to close your hair cuticles.

A Word from the Trichologist

"To maintain your colour when you have grey hair, there are several factors worth considering. Choosing a natural or plant-based dye allows you to use tinting powders such as Rajasthan henna, indigo, madder or katam, which colour the hair without chemical oxidation, without breaking down the disulphide bonds and without damaging the hair fibre. It's also worth choosing gentle, sulphate-free shampoos, since certain surfactants can alter the colour and dry out the hair fibre, whereas sulphate-free shampoos help colour last longer and keep hair hydrated. Limiting excessive heat is also important, as straighteners, hairdryers and curling irons can weaken the fibre and dull the colour when used at too high a temperature; it's best to opt for gentle or air drying and to use a heat protectant when needed. To avoid damaging lengths that are already coloured, it's best to dye only the roots, touching up regrowth while leaving the lengths untouched. It also helps to protect and nourish the hair after colouring by applying a hydrating treatment or a nourishing mask rich in proteins and plant oils, favouring lighter oils such as avocado, jojoba, broccoli, sweet almond, rocket, grape seed or aloe vera, and using smoothing conditioners to help flatten the cuticle and preserve shine. Finally, it's best to avoid prolonged exposure to the sun and to hard water, since sun, chlorine or limescale can dull the colour, and protective sprays or lightweight oils can help limit fading."

Dalila Belmokhtar, @dalilahairscience Doctor of Pharmacy & Trichologist

Walnut Husk: To darken brown hair and add brown highlights. It is used in combination with Egyptian Henna to give white hair a luminous coppery tint.

Organic Indigo: To darken hair or add midnight blue highlights to brown hair. You can use it alone to achieve a bluish grey on your white hair. Combine it with a Rajasthan Henna color if you’re looking for a natural brown instead. 

Yemeni Red Henna: To colour your hair from auburn to chocolate brown. Applied alone to grey hair, it will give a coppery red.

Rhapontic: To bring out golden highlights in blonde and light brown hair. Use it as a hair colour on your grey hair if you want a pastel blonde.

Although they are generally considered gentler on the hair shaft and scalp, plant-based hair dyes are not entirely free of allergy risks. Henna, for example, can cause delayed hypersensitivity reactions when it comes into contact with the skin. When using it for the first time, we therefore encourage you to perform a patch test beforehand, waiting 48 hours before applying the dye (provided you have not observed any abnormal skin reactions following the test). 

Always follow the instructions, dosages, and processing time for your grey hair dye.

The more often you use plant-based dyes on your gray hair, the better the results will be! These dyes have the advantage of a gradual effect: they blend naturally into the hair and avoid the traditional “root line” effect. So commit to prolonged and repeated use, and don’t lose hope if the first color doesn’t quite meet your expectations.  

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice, and guides to help consumers choose the right beauty products. With a strong interest in natural, organic, and clean cosmetics, she analyses and shares trends and innovations in the sector.