Niacinamide or salicylic acid: which is right for me?

Not sure which active ingredient to choose to boost your cosmetic routine – niacinamide or salicylic acid? The good news is that they're both tried-and-tested ingredients with multiple benefits for combination to oily skin prone to blemishes, shine and open pores. That said, there are differences between them that you should be aware of before taking the plunge. Here's our advice on how to make the right choice and get a clearer complexion, without any nasty surprises.

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Niacinamide and Salicylic acid: what are they?

Niacinamide: a form of Vitamin B3

It's the ideal ingredient if… you're looking for a versatile active ingredient, generally well tolerated, to improve the overall appearance of your skin.

Niacinamide (or Nicotinamide) is a form of vitamin B3 (or vitamin PP, or Niacin). Niacinamide is essential to our bodies. It enables us to convert the nutrients we ingest (carbohydrates, lipids, proteins) into energy. It is also involved in the synthesis of sex hormones and the production of fatty acids. In cosmetics, it is mainly used as a soothing active ingredient and skincare agent. It can be of natural or synthetic origin.

Salicylic acid: a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA)

It's the ideal ingredient if… you want to introduce an acid into your routine and exfoliate your skin daily.

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (or BHA, not to be confused with AHAs). It is unique in that it is naturally produced by certain plant species, such as Willow and Meadowsweet. Its role is to help plants cope with the stresses of their environment. In pharmacology (internal use), it is still used today to make aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid). In cosmetics, it is known for its desquamatory and anti-seborrhoeic effects.

Salicylic acid or Niacinamide: their properties

The effects of niacinamide on the skin

It's the ideal ingredient if… you have oily skin that tends to shine during the day (excess sebum), with brown spots and/or redness.

  • Sebum regulator: Combats the excess sebum that causes shine in combination to oily skin and refines the appearance of pores.

  • Anti-ageing: It prevents accelerated skin ageing, smoothes the visible signs of ageing and combats pigmentation spots.

  • Soothing: It reduces the appearance of redness and helps restore a more even complexion thanks to its enhancing action on skin microcirculation.

The effects of Salicylic Acid on the face

It's the ideal ingredient if… you have oily skin with a thick texture, open pores, blackheads and uncomfortable blemishes.

  • Purifying: It is renowned for treating all types of acne-prone skin. It helps to unclog blocked pores, preventing the formation of blackheads.

  • Keratolytic: Its exfoliating effects remove dead cells, help smooth the skin's surface (including roughness) and encourages regeneration of the epidermis.

  • Soothing: It reduces skin discomfort linked to the formation of prostaglandins E2, fatty acids involved in inflammatory processes.

A closer look at our Niacinamide and Salicylic acid products

Focus on our Niacinamide cosmetic active ingredient

Warning

Keep out of reach of children and pets. Dangerous. Observe safety precautions. Causes severe eye irritation. Wear eye protection. IF IN EYES: rinse cautiously with water for several minutes. Remove contact lenses if present and easy to remove. Continue rinsing. If eye irritation persists: consult a doctor.

A closer look at our 10% Niacinamide, Copper & Zinc Serum Concentrate

Focus on our Active ingredient - Plant-derived salicylic acid

Warning

Keep out of reach of children. Do not swallow. Avoid contact with eyes. Do not use on children. Salicylic acid is a powerful active ingredient, so always follow the recommended quantities. For sensitive skin, start with a low dosage. Stop use in the event of irritation. Do not use if you are allergic to aspirin or salicylic compounds. Perform a patch test of your products in the crease of the elbow 48 hours before first application. Wearing protective gloves and goggles is recommended when handling.

Focus on our 2% Salicylic Acid & Zinc Serum Concentrate

How do I use Salicylic Acid or Niacinamide?

Applying a Niacinamide serum or cream

It's the ideal ingredient if… you want a tried-and-tested active ingredient that's easy to use on a daily basis and doesn't impose any particular constraints.

  • The right time of day: morning and/or evening (niacinamide does not increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays).

  • The right season: all year round.

  • Tip: for dry skin, apply a Nicotinamide serum under your day cream to optimise its moisturising benefits.

  • The right formulation: choose between a lotion, serum or moisturising cream, depending on your texture preferences.

  • The right dose: the frequency of use may vary depending on the niacinamide concentration of your product. Be sure to consult the instructions for use.

Apply a treatment enriched with Salicylic Acid

It's the ideal ingredient if… you feel comfortable enough with a powerful ingredient that requires a little more care.

  • The right time of day: ideally in the evening (like all exfoliating ingredients, as they tend to thin the skin's protective barrier).

  • The right season: preferably in autumn and winter.

  • Tip: avoid the area around the eyes. Remember to wear sun protection all over your face the day after you apply it.

  • The right formulation: use as a cleanser, lotion, peeling, or cream.

  • The right dose: it all depends on the product you choose. Take the time to read the instructions for use on the packaging.

BHA and Niacinamide: which active ingredients can be combined with them (or not)?

Do you already have a well-established skincare routine and want to know whether your new active ingredient (Niacinamide or Salicylic Acid) will be compatible with your current products? Here are our answers.

P.S. Some ingredients are not recommended in combination, but you can always use them at different times of the day or alternate them!

Vitamin B3: the right combinations

The following combinations are traditionally considered to be well tolerated by the skin. However, don't forget that it's the whole of your skincare formula that needs to be taken into account. If in doubt, don't hesitate to ask for advice.

  • Niacinamide + Hyaluronic acid: for a surface moisturising, anti-wrinkle and anti-blemish effect.

  • Niacinamide + Vegan collagen: for anti-ageing, anti-redness and skin barrier protection.

Did you know?

You can also personalise our 10% Niacinamide serum concentrate with essential oils (not recommended for use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding, nor for children; other specific precautions may apply). For example: organic Gum Rockrose to boost its anti-redness benefits, organic Seville orange to combat shine or organic Patchouli to repair. Consult the technical data sheet for our serum to discover all our customisation recommendations, recommended dosages and precautions for use.

Which products should not be combined with Niacinamide?

Key takeaway: Niacinamide may cause skin discomfort when combined with acidic ingredients. As a general rule, we recommend avoiding the use of multiple products containing high concentrations of potent active ingredients at the same time.

  • Niacinamide + Vitamin C

  • Niacinamide + Retinol

  • Niacinamide + AHA (e.g. glycolic acid, lactic acid)

See also: our 3 golden rules for using Niacinamide correctly.

BHA: the right combinations

The following combinations are not considered problematic for the skin. However, remember to take into account the entire formula of the products you wish to combine. If in doubt, don't hesitate to ask for advice.

  • Salicylic acid + Hyaluronic acid: for an anti-imperfection, smoothing and moisturising effect.

  • Salicylic acid + Collagen: for a regenerating, softening and firming effect.

Which products should not be mixed with salicylic acid?

The main thing to remember: Avoid using several exfoliating agents at the same time. The following combinations are very (some would say, too!) powerful and potentially present risks of irritation for your skin.

  • Salicylic acid + Retinol.

  • Salicylic acid + Vitamin C.

  • Salicylic acid + AHA.

  • Salicylic acid + Azelaic acid.

Can Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide be combined?

No, this is not a combination that we recommend for our serums: neither as a mixture nor layered on top of each other. The combination of salicylic acid and niacinamide could be a source of irritation for some skin types. If you absolutely must include these two active ingredients in your routine, use them separately: niacinamide in the morning and salicylic acid in the evening.

That said, don't forget that skin with blemishes is often more sensitive than we think. It can overreact to what it perceives as aggression, such as overly aggressive cleansing or overzealous use of active ingredients. The result is sometimes the opposite of what was hoped for, with reactive seborrhoea ('rebound effect') which encourages the appearance of new blackheads. Your watchword should always be GENTLE CARE.

Our AZ recipes

Our Niacinamide recipes for skin prone to redness and imperfections

Niacinamide & Algo'Zinc cleansing and balancing lotion

Niacinamide & Algo'Zinc cleansing and balancing lotion

Hyaluronic Acid & Niacinamide rebalancing serum

Hyaluronic Acid & Niacinamide rebalancing serum


Age-defying redness cream

Age-defying redness cream


Our Salicylic Acid recipes for oily, clogged skin

Cleansing foam for clean skin

Cleansing foam for clean skin

Purifying cream for acne-prone skin

Purifying lotion for acne-prone skin

Zero-blemish gel for oily skin

Zero-blemish gel for oily skin

Expert advice

Whether it's Niacinamide or Salicylic Acid, don't overwork your oily skin. Take the time to analyse its needs and reactions. Introduce new active ingredients into your daily routine little by little, and always one at a time, to make it easier to identify those that don't suit you. Start with a lower concentration if necessary and gradually increase if you feel your skin needs more. Wait at least 28 days (the equivalent of one cell renewal cycle) before considering any additions or changes to your skincare routine.

Spotlight on our specialist editor, Hélène Betoux

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice and guides to help consumers choose the right beauty products. With a strong interest in natural, organic and clean cosmetics, she analyses and shares trends and innovations in the sector.