Hair mask for curly hair: our natural recipes

The nature of curly hair is down to the distinctive shape of its hair follicles and the structure of the hair shaft. Unlike straight hair, which has a circular cross-section, the hair shaft of curly hair has an elliptical cross-section and undergoes natural twists along its length. This helical configuration results in an uneven distribution of the sebum produced by the scalp.

The standard classification system is used to identify the different textures:

• Type 2 (wavy hair): comprises gentle ‘S’-shaped waves of varying prominence (2A, 2B, 2C), requiring light styling to maintain bounce

• Type 3 (curly hair): comprises well-defined curls, ranging from loose rings to tight, spring-like spirals (3A, 3B, 3C), which are particularly prone to dryness at the ends

• Type 4 (kinky and textured hair): features a very tight ‘S’-shaped or zigzag pattern (4A, 4B, 4C), characterised by lower mechanical strength and a greater tendency to break during styling.

A natural curl that slows down sebum distribution

The sebum secreted by the scalp struggles to slide down the hair shaft in curly hair. The mid-lengths and ends are therefore deprived of their natural lipid protection, which promotes dehydration, the formation of frizz and the appearance of split ends. [1, 2]

Sensitivity to water swelling and 5 moisture-induced fatigue

Upon contact with water during washing, the inner layer of the cuticle (the endocuticle) absorbs moisture and swells. This repeated swelling causes the outer scales to lift and break under the pressure of the comb. Applying a mask rich in hydrophobic lipids limits this water penetration and prevents damage to the cuticle. [2, 3]

Mechanical fragility when subjected to friction and detangling

Due to weak points at the points of curvature, the curly hair fibre offers less resistance during handling. Applying a conditioning mask deposits a lubricating film that reduces the friction between the strands and significantly reduces protein loss during detangling. [1, 2, 3]

To precisely meet the needs of the hair fibre, it is important to combine humectants – which are capable of retaining water – with lipophilic ingredients that lock in moisture and strengthen the protective barrier.

Key active ingredients to strengthen and soften curls

• Plant-based ceramides: major components of the intercellular matrix of the hair fibre and scalp, they smooth the cuticle, restore the lipid barrier and reduce water loss

• Hyaluronic acid: a powerful humectant, it binds water to the hair’s surface to restore suppleness and elasticity to the curl without weighing it down

• Hydrolysed proteins and keratin: with a low molecular weight, these peptides bind to damaged areas of the cuticle, neutralise negative electrical charges and reduce static electricity.

Nourishing and protective natural ingredients

• Coconut oil: composed of low-molecular-weight lauric acid triglycerides, it has the unique ability to penetrate deep into the hair fibre to reduce protein loss and limit water-induced swelling

• Light plant oils (jojoba, argan, abyssinian): rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, they form a protective, water-repellent film that enhances shine and makes the hair easier to comb

• Plant-based butters (shea, cocoa): very rich in fatty acids, they coat very dry or thick hair fibres and prevent split ends from forming.

Among the plant-based oils used in hair care, olive oil is also valued for its emollient properties. Discover the uses of olive oil for hair and the precautions to take with it depending on your scalp type.

It should be noted that these active ingredients must never be used on their own; they must always be incorporated into cosmetic formulations. 

Discover haircare products that are perfectly suited to wavy, curly or textured hair.

The effectiveness of a hair treatment lies in the application method chosen to protect the hair fibre.

1. Opt for pre-shampoo application 6: spread the treatment or oil onto dry or slightly damp hair before washing to form a protective water-repellent film that prevents the hair from swelling when wet.

2. Focus on the lengths and ends: distribute the formula strand by strand, focusing on the driest areas, without overloading the scalp.

3. Leave on for the recommended time: leave the mask on for at least 30 minutes (up to an hour or overnight under a warm towel for an intensive treatment) to help the lipids penetrate the hair.

4. Gently detangle with your fingers or a wide-toothed comb: make the most of the moisturising treatment to remove knots without breaking the hair shaft.

5. Rinse with lukewarm water and wash gently: remove any excess treatment, then wash using a mild shampoo applied directly to the scalp.

Spotlight on the ‘Strength & Nutrition’ Homemade Hair Mask Kit

Make your own homemade hair mask using organic castor oil. Enjoy its nourishing and strengthening properties, renowned for helping to strengthen and nourish the hair and slow down hair loss (in both men and women). Enriched with provitamin B5, this luxurious treatment coats damaged hair, leaving it strong, soft and shiny! Learn how to make your own homemade cosmetics with ease using this comprehensive Aroma-Zone recipe kit. This kit includes all the ingredients and equipment you need to create your 100% natural hair care product.

Discover the ‘Strength & Nutrition’ Homemade Hair Mask Kit

Focus on the Hair Mask Base

A true nourishing balm, this neutral, certified organic hair mask base, rich in jojoba, castor and shea butter oils, protects, smooths and nourishes your hair. Its supple, lightweight texture means it can be used as a hair mask or as a conditioner to make detangling easier and to give your hair shine, suppleness and softness. It is also ideal as a leave-in treatment to coat, nourish and enhance your mid-lengths and ends. Used on its own or enhanced with fragrances, active ingredients and/or essential oils of your choice, this base allows you to easily create 100% personalised hair care treatments, tailored to your hair’s needs and whatever you fancy!

Focus on the Hair Mask Base

Focus on the Hair Protection Active Ingredient

Derived from Abyssinian oil, this 100% natural, oil-based hair active ingredient effectively protects your hair from external aggressors such as the sun, seawater and heat. Rich in phytosterols with conditioning properties, it coats the hair fibre and restores softness and shine to damaged hair. This Hair Protection Active Ingredient is also ideal for coloured hair, helping to preserve the intensity of the colour. Its oily texture means it blends very easily into your hair oil preparations, oil treatments or protective hair masks.

Discover the Hair Protection Active Ingredient

Spotlight on the Keratin’protect Active Ingredient

Made from brown seaweed extract, this beautifying and heat-protective hair active ingredient adds shine and softness to the hair whilst protecting it from dehydration and damage caused by straighteners and hairdryers. It coats the hair, restoring strength and shine, and softens coarse, damaged hair.

Discover the Keratin'protect Active Ingredient

Focus on the Active Ingredient: Plant-Based Ceramides

Derived from sunflower oil, plant-based ceramides are an active ingredient that replenishes lipids and protects the skin and hair. In ‘homemade’ hair care, ceramides are highly effective at smoothing, protecting and strengthening the hair fibre. They are particularly renowned for their use in colour-treated hair, helping to maintain its shine. When incorporated into your skincare recipes, they protect against dehydration and restore the skin’s hydrolipidic film.

Discover the Plant-Based Ceramides Active Ingredient

Before using a new ingredient or a new homemade hair care formula, always carry out an allergy test on the inside of your elbow 48 hours before application. Avoid contact with the eyes and rinse thoroughly with clean water if the product comes into contact with them.

To maximise the benefits of a hair mask containing plant-based oils or butters, wrap your hair in a warm towel or a shower cap while the mask is left on. The gentle heat helps to soften the cuticle and optimise the penetration of lipids into the hair shaft. When washing, apply the gentle shampoo only to the scalp to cleanse it without drying out the lengths.

Lauréna is a journalist and editor specialising in lifestyle, wellbeing and psychology. Between writing articles, she travels to discover the world and what it has to teach us.