Retinol or hyaluronic acid: which anti-ageing active ingredient should you choose?

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a must-have cosmetic ingredient. It stands out from other anti-ageing active ingredients due to its exceptional hygroscopic properties. This means that it has the ability to capture surrounding water and trap it in the epidermis. It therefore produces different degrees of a superficial plumping and wrinkle-firming effect, depending on its molecular weight and the resulting penetration effectiveness. The smaller its molecules, the easier it penetrates.

It is unique in that it is already naturally present in our bodies. It belongs to a special group of carbohydrates called glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Omnipresent in the extracellular matrix, it hydrates connective tissue and gives our skin a plump appearance.

What is retinol?

Retinol is another well-known anti-ageing active ingredient. This time it is a type of retinoid, a family of substances derived from vitamin A. Once applied to the skin, it automatically undergoes a process of metabolisation by our skin cells. This transformation is essential for it to become 'active' and stimulate the natural physiological functions of our epidermis. From retinol, it is gradually transformed into retinal, then retinoic acid.

Retinol may be synthetic in some cosmetic products, but it exists in a natural state (when taken from animal and plant sources). It is naturally present in cacay carrier oil (in the form of trans-retinoic acid).

What are the effects of hyaluronic acid on the skin?

According to studies, topical application (= on the skin) of hyaluronic acid may have the following benefits:

• It forms a film that reinforces the skin's protective barrier.

• It increases hydration of the stratum corneum.

• It makes the skin more elastic.

• Improves skin texture.

• Brightens and evens skin tone.

• Smoothes fine lines and wrinkles.

• It is generally well tolerated by the skin.

What are the benefits of retinol for the skin?

Multiple scientific and dermatological studies attribute the following properties to retinol when used topically:

• It supports the natural renewal of skin cells

• Stimulates fibroblast activity and collagen synthesis

• It reduces the depth of wrinkles

• It improves the signs of sun-related ageing

Focus on Hyaluronic acid serum concentrate

This 100% natural hyaluronic acid serum is one of the most concentrated on the market: 3.5% compared with 0.1 to 1% hyaluronic acid in conventional cosmetics. Recognised for smoothing, moisturising and plumping the skin, its fresh, naturally gelled texture penetrates instantly without leaving bits on your skin or pulling. Its effectiveness as an anti-ageing serum has been tested. It has been proven to fill wrinkles, moisturise and improve skin elasticity. Our hyaluronic acid serum also works wonders on dry, damaged hair, softening and restructuring it. This anti-ageing face moisturising serum can be used on its own or can be personalised with other active ingredients. It's new formula contains no alcohol. Available in recyclable and inexpensive eco-refill packs for easy refilling to reduce waste. Find out about the different possible additions and their dosages in this fact sheet.

A closer look at Optimised Retinal Serum Concentrate

A global anti-ageing agent, this serum has concentrated retinal, the precursor of retinoic acid, the only active form of vitamin A. An essential multi-targeting active ingredient for combating the signs of ageing, retinal firms the skin, reduces wrinkles and fine lines, fades spots and rosacea and brightens the complexion. Also renowned for treating acne-prone skin, it has anti-inflammatory effects, eliminates impurities, purifies, evens out and regulates oily skin. Combined with an extract of mastic tree, which helps stop the breakdown of retinoic acid naturally present in your skin. Retinal's anti-ageing power is legendary! Available in a recyclable and inexpensive eco-refill to reduce waste.

As well as retinol and hyaluronic acid, there are many other anti-ageing cosmetic ingredients to choose from. Here is a selection of highly reputed anti-ageing ingredients to help select the best for your skin type.

• Retinol: recommended for mature, oily and normal skin.

• Retinal: recommended for mature, delicate skin with blemishes.

• Hyaluronic acid: recommended for normal, dry and dehydrated skin.

• Collagen: recommended for mature, sagging and dehydrated skin.

• Vitamin C: recommended for normal, dry and dull skin.

• Bakuchiol: recommended for normal, dry, oily and combination skin with a mature tendency.

• Glycolic acid (AHA): recommended for oily, blemish-prone and slightly sensitive skin.

• Nicotinamide (vitamin B3): recommended for combination or oily skin.

See how to combine our serums

Our application advice

1. If you opt for a retinol treatment. Use it in the evening, remembering to protect your skin with a sunscreen the next day. It's best to introduce retinol into your routine gradually, slowly increasing the concentration of the formula and amount used. You can start with one application a week at a concentration of 0.01% to 0.03% maximum. Pay close attention to any sensations (e.g. tingling or overheating) and adjust your use if necessary.

2. If you opt for a hyaluronic acid treatment. This active ingredient is much easier to incorporate into your skincare routine. You can use it in the morning or the evening (or both). It's available as a cream, serum and mask. It can improve skin elasticity even from 0.1% concentration. You can opt for a more concentrated formula straight away if you prefer.

Can retinol and hyaluronic acid be mixed?

Yes, absolutely! This combination can even be beneficial for maintaining optimal skin hydration levels and preventing the minor discomforts commonly associated with the use of retinol. For example, you could use a retinol product in the evening, followed by a hyaluronic acid product the next morning.

The disadvantages of hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid has almost none! You simply have to bear in mind that, as with any cosmetic substance, the risk of an allergic reaction can never be completely ruled out. Do a sensitivity test in your elbow crease 48 hours before using the formula on your face.

The disadvantages of retinol

• It can cause irritation and redness in sensitive skin. However, this is less likely than with other retinoids.

• It is photosensitising: it increases the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

• It needs to be used with greater care than hyaluronic acid.

• It is contraindicated for pregnant and breast-feeding women.

• It must be stored away from air and sunlight to preserve its effectiveness.

Whether you use retinol or not, get into the habit of applying sun cream to your face every day. This will protect your skin from sun-related ageing. This is premature ageing caused by UV rays. On top of biological ageing, it can cause open pores, thickening of the epidermis, deep wrinkles and pigmentation spots.

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice, and guides to help consumers choose the right beauty products. With a strong interest in natural, organic, and clean cosmetics, she analyses and shares trends and innovations in the sector.