Dermaplaning: What Is It?

Dermaplaning is a technique that involves shaving the fine hair on the face and/or neck to remove excess dead skin cells from the surface of the epidermis, as well as fine hairs. This method, which can be performed at a beauty salon or at home, emerged about five years ago on social media and promises numerous benefits.

• Improved complexion

• Removal of facial peach fuzz, without aggravation when it grows back

• Stimulation of cell renewal

• Reduction of fine lines 

• Reduction of enlarged pores

• Improved skin texture, smoother skin

• Increased penetration of dermo-cosmetic products

Here are the essential steps of a session:

1. Cleansing the skin with a suitable product after carefully removing makeup. Rinsing and gently drying.

2. Use of a blade (razor or scalpel, single-use) to “shave” the skin against the direction of hair growth across the entire face, taking care to pull the skin taut and avoid overly delicate areas (around the eyes).

3. Then apply a moisturising or healing cream, followed by sunscreen.

This technique can be performed at a beauty salon or at home, provided basic hygiene rules are followed. Sessions should be spaced out approximately every month to minimise the risk of irritation and, consequently, skin sensitisation, which can eventually lead to highly reactive skin.

Immediately after the session, use moisturising and restorative products for the next 2 to 5 days, such as: 

1. A moisturizing and anti-aging serum (retinal, fruit acids etc.) in the evening, before your moisturizer

2. Apply a vitamin C serum in the morning, followed by a moisturizer or even sunscreen (minimum SPF 30)

Afterward, you can resume your usual routine, ideally focusing on :

1. A pure and native organic aloe vera gel

2. A real soothing and moisturizing cream such as our Aloe Vera and Peppermint Cream

Temporary irritation or redness: Immediately after the session, the skin may be red, sensitive, or even slightly irritated, especially if it is reactive.

Risk of cuts: The treatment involves the use of a very fine blade. If done improperly, it can cause small cuts or scrapes.

Pimples or acne breakouts: In some people, especially those with active acne-prone skin, dermaplaning can worsen pimples or cause minor breakouts.

For the vitamin C and retinal serum: Store at room temperature, away from heat and light, and close the bottle tightly after use.

This product has a shelf life of 9 months after opening.

Precautions:

• If discomfort occurs, use less frequently.

• Avoid the eye area.

• Keep out of reach of children.

For the glycolic acid serum: Store at room temperature, away from heat and light, and close the bottle tightly after use.

This product has a shelf life of 9 months after opening.

Precautions:

• This exfoliating serum is for evening use only. Use daily sunscreen and avoid sun exposure for up to one week after the last application.

• Avoid the eye area.

• If irritation occurs, discontinue use.

• Keep out of reach of children.

My opinion as a dermatologist is simple: if the goal is to remove fine facial hair to even out your complexion, and you don’t have any hormonal issues, then: go for it!

If it’s to reduce signs of ageing, improve your skin texture, etc., then consult a dermatologist instead, who can guide you on the best course of action based on your skin type: a tailored routine, targeted active ingredients, and perhaps chemical peels.

Dr Agathe Aoun - Coussieu is a dermatologist in Martinique, where she practises general, surgical and cosmetic dermatology. Passionate about skin wellness, she also offers advice and the most natural skincare products adapted to sensitive skin types and specific needs. She has also set up an Instagram account where you can find her favourite products, explanations of skin concerns and skin advice (@dragatheaoun).