Dermaplaning: What Is It?

Dermaplaning, this trendy technique that involves shaving the face with a scalpel or razor blade, promises numerous benefits for the skin, but what’s the truth? How does a session work? What are the pros and cons? We’ll tell you everything you need to know.

By Agathe Aoun

Updated on 5/12/2026Reading time: 0 min.

What is dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is a technique that involves shaving the fine hair on the face and/or neck to remove excess dead skin cells from the surface of the epidermis, as well as fine hairs. This method, which can be performed at a beauty salon or at home, emerged about five years ago on social media and promises numerous benefits.

What are the benefits?

Improved complexion
Removal of facial peach fuzz, without aggravation when it grows back
Stimulation of cell renewal
Reduction of fine lines
Reduction of enlarged pores
Improved skin texture, smoother skin
Increased penetration of dermo-cosmetic products

How to do dermaplaning properly?

Here are the essential steps of a session:

Cleansing the skin with a suitable product after carefully removing makeup. Rinsing and gently drying.
Use of a blade (razor or scalpel, single-use) to “shave” the skin against the direction of hair growth across the entire face, taking care to pull the skin taut and avoid overly delicate areas (around the eyes).
Then apply a moisturizing or healing cream, followed by sunscreen.

Who can perform dermaplaning?

This technique can be performed at a beauty salon or at home, provided basic hygiene rules are followed. However, sessions should be spaced out approximately every month to minimize the risk of irritation and, consequently, skin sensitization, which can eventually lead to highly reactive skin.

What products should you use after dermaplaning?

Immediately after the session, use moisturizing and restorative products for the next 2 to 5 days, such as:

Afterward, you can resume your usual routine, ideally focusing on:

2. a moisturizing and anti-aging serum (retinal, fruit acids etc.) in the evening, before your moisturizer

1. Apply a vitamin C serum in the morning, followed by a moisturizer or even sunscreen (minimum SPF 30)

2. A pure aloe vera gel

1. Aloe Vera and Peppermint Cream

What are the downsides of dermaplaning?

Temporary irritation or redness: Immediately after the session, the skin may be red, sensitive, or even slightly irritated, especially if it is reactive.

Risk of cuts: The treatment involves the use of a very fine blade. If done improperly, it can cause small cuts or scrapes.

Pimples or acne breakouts: In some people, especially those with active acne-prone skin, dermaplaning can worsen pimples or cause minor breakouts.

Precautions

For the vitamin C and retinal serum: Store at room temperature, away from heat and light, and close the bottle tightly after use.

This product has a shelf life of 9 months after opening.

Precautions:

If discomfort occurs, use less frequently.
Avoid the eye area.
Keep out of reach of children.

For the glycolic acid serum: Store at room temperature, away from heat and light, and close the bottle tightly after use.

This product has a shelf life of 9 months after opening.

Precautions:

This exfoliating serum is for evening use only. Use daily sunscreen and avoid sun exposure for up to one week after the last application.
Avoid the eye area.
If irritation occurs, discontinue use.
Keep out of reach of children.

Expert advice

My opinion as a dermatologist is simple: if the goal is to remove fine facial hair to even out your complexion, and you don’t have any hormonal issues, then: go for it!

If it’s to reduce signs of aging, improve your skin texture, etc., then consult a dermatologist instead, who can guide you on the best course of action based on your skin type: a tailored routine, targeted active ingredients, and perhaps chemical peels.

Learn more

Is dermaplaning a good idea?

It appears that among these claimed benefits, the brightening of the complexion (due to exfoliation and the removal of fine facial hair) and the increased absorption of cosmetic ingredients seem to hold true. However, it should be noted that very few medical studies have been conducted on this topic, and the few that exist emphasize the need for further research to determine whether or not it is effective and safe.

To the question "Is dermaplaning a good idea?" I would answer that it might be better to opt for chemical peels (products primarily based on fruit acids, AHAs, and BHAs), which penetrate deeper into the skin due to their active ingredients, yielding more comprehensive and, above all, longer-lasting results. Similarly, there is a lower risk of infection, injury, and skin sensitization, unlike with dermaplaning.

Although facial hair in women is not considered a hormone-sensitive area, it should be noted that in some women, the areas around the “sideburns,” jawline, chin, and neck—as well as the upper lip—can react to hormones and may therefore be sensitive to shaving or other hair removal techniques. Thus, for these individuals, dermaplaning can theoretically promote slightly thicker regrowth or expand the area of regrowth. It is therefore important to be cautious.

Similarly, taking hormonal birth control can sometimes “mask” this type of hormonal sensitivity, and it is only after stopping the medication that hair growth or regrowth may become more visible... So, proceed with caution.

The main risks are as follows:

excessive irritation, especially for already sensitive or reactive skin
injuries, especially for skin experiencing an acne flare-up (since the skin’s surface is very uneven in this case, with active inflammatory lesions)
secondary infection
post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (especially if there is a wound)

Dr Agathe Aoun - Coussieu is a dermatologist in Martinique, where she practises general, surgical and cosmetic dermatology. Mindful of the skin's well-being, she also offers advice and the most natural skincare products adapted to sensitive or special skin types. She has also set up an Instagram account where you can find her favourite products, explanations of skin pathologies and skin advice (@dragatheaoun).

Bibliography

Tijani AO, Frempong D, Kaur J, Sergent S, Shaw K, Lessaint R, Al Shawi M, Verana G, Puri A. Dermaplaning for Transdermal Drug Permeation Enhancement: A Qualitative and Quantitative Assessment. AAPS PharmSciTech. 2023 Feb 1;24(2):54. doi: 10.1208/s12249-023-02505-y. PMID: 36725790.

Pryor L, Gordon CR, Swanson EW, Reish RG, Horton-Beeman K, Cohen SR. Dermaplaning, topical oxygen, and photodynamic therapy: a systematic review of the literature. Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2011 Dec;35(6):1151-9. doi: 10.1007/s00266-011-9730-z. Epub 2011 May 2. PMID: 21533984.