Azelaic acid or Nicotinamide: how do I choose which serum to use?

Azelaic acid is an active ingredient renowned for its many benefits for the face. Firstly, it is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it an effective ally in treating acne and skin blemishes. By regulating sebum production, it prevents clogged pores and stops pimples and blackheads from forming.

Azelaic acid is also used for its brightening properties. It works by inhibiting the excessive production of melanin, helping to reduce pigmentation spots, acne scars and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It contributes to a more even, luminous complexion.

Finally, azelaic acid is renowned for its gentle exfoliating properties. By promoting cell renewal, it helps to eliminate dead skin cells and reveal smoother, more radiant skin.

Although azelaic acid and nicotinamide are both beneficial active ingredients for the skin, they differ significantly in their actions and applications. Azelaic acid is effective for treating acne and pigmentation spots, while nicotinamide offers a wider range of benefits, including strengthening the skin barrier, reducing the appearance of pores and improving skin texture.

It can be applied in the morning or evening, with no risk of photosensitisation. It should be applied before your usual skincare creams or oils and sun protection.

Azelaic acid can potentially be poorly tolerated by highly reactive skin, so we recommend you avoid combining it with irritating active ingredients, such as AHAs (fruit acids), glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or retinol. Our serum already contains salicylic acid, so there's no point, or even a potential danger, in applying any more salicylic acid to your skin.

On the other hand, combining it with hyaluronic acid is safe and maximises results.

It can be used morning and/or evening. Massage a few drops of serum into your face and neck before applying your usual day/night skincare. This product is not photosensitising.

It is possible to combine it with AHAs (fruit acids), glycolic acid or salicylic acid, but these combinations should preferably be spread out over the day. For example, nicotinamide serum in the morning, and the other AHAs in the evening, as they are potentially photosensitising. However, in theory, you could combine the two at the same time.

Finally, remember that serums or cosmetic products containing AHAs (glycolic acid in particular) can be irritating. Therefore, they should be reserved for your evening beauty routine to reduce sun exposure as much as possible. Similarly, avoid using too many irritating or abrasive products at the same time (e.g. salon exfoliators, DIY micro-peels and retinol, etc.), as this can damage your skin and make it uncomfortable (redness, itching, stinging, burning, etc.). Finally, including a good skin moisturiser will make your skin feel more soothed, comfortable, and, above all, more beautiful. So, don't hesitate to include hyaluronic acid in your beauty routine!

Overall, the simple answer is simple: given that nicotinamide is well tolerated, there's not really a risky combination. However, remember that skincare products containing vitamin C are relatively 'fragile' and it's best to apply them separately from other skincare products, with the exception of hyaluronic acid (or a moisturiser) and sun cream. For example, apply vitamin C with hyaluronic acid in the morning and nicotinamide (with or without other active ingredients) in the evening.

Azelaic acid is ideal for oily skin with a tendency towards acne or rosacea, with or without dark spots. And nicotinamide is perfect for more sensitive, reactive and slightly more mature skin, potentially with inflammatory acne.

Finally, the argument about combining nicotinamide with other active ingredients should also be taken into account in this choice, given the excellent tolerance of nicotinamide compared with azelaic acid.

Here again, it is important to consider the actions of these two components differently:

Hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin, which absorbs water and diminishes with age. When applied as a serum, it plumps the skin, erases fine lines and rehydrates dry, dehydrated or mature skin. It has no direct stripping or abrasive action, and no micro-peeling effect. It is well tolerated and rare to experience any side effects when using it.

For example, our Hyaluronic Acid Serum is 3.5% concentrated and is suitable for all skin types, but particularly dry and dehydrated skin, thanks to its moisturising and soothing properties.

It can also be used around the eyes, and even on the hair, especially dry, curly or textured hair.

Retinol, on the other hand, is a derivative of vitamin A acid, which is a retinoid (a powerful keratolytic). It is more suited to mature skin or skin with imperfections. It is often poorly tolerated, especially when first used, because of its keratolytic action.

For example, our Optimised Retinal Concentrate Serum is made up of retinal, a precursor of retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A), and mastic tree extracts, which limit the breakdown of retinoic acid naturally present in our skin. It is also enriched with hyaluronic acid, improving the tolerance of this serum, as well as its moisturising and anti-ageing action.

This serum helps to smooth the skin, tighten pores, reduce blackheads and pimples, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also improves the complexion, making it more even and luminous, as well as limiting excess sebum.

It is designed for all skin types, but in particular mature skin needing anti-ageing action, oily skin, acne-prone and rosacea-prone skin, and dull or uneven complexions.

We now understand that one moisturises and plumps (hyaluronic acid) the skin, while the other exfoliates it and unclogs pores (retinol).

To sum up, these two active ingredients work in different ways, and the ideal solution is to combine them! Why not blend them at the same time (preferably in the evening for retinol)? As this improves both efficacy and tolerance.