Azelaic acid or Nicotinamide: how do I choose which serum to use?

Unfortunately, there is no simple, straightforward answer to this question, as everything depends on your skin type and the problems you're facing. There is no single acid that is 'more effective' than another. The most important thing is to select them according to what you want your skincare to do, and to pick a smart combination.

Some acids have more keratolytic effects (refining and smoothing skin texture and stripping the top layer of skin containing dead cells) than others: this is the case with salicylic acid. Others have more depigmenting and acne-fighting properties, such as azelaic acid. Others are reputed to be powerful antioxidants that target free radicals and promote cell renewal, such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Lastly, some are already world-renowned for their anti-ageing effects, such as retinol and hyaluronic acid.

To keep things as simple as possible, we've summarised which skincare concerns the different acids target:

• Glycolic acid (part of the AHA - alpha fruit acids): spots, oily or acne-prone skin, fine lines or enlarged pores.

• Salicylic acid (part of AHAs): thick skin texture, raised blemishes, microcysts, blackheads, spots or oily skin.

• Hyaluronic acid: dry, dehydrated skin, fine lines or loss of firmness.

• Retinoic acid, or retinol: spots, fine lines or loss of firmness.

• Azelaic acid: spots, combination skin, redness, dilated blood vessels or acne-prone skin.

• Ascorbic acid (vitamin C): pigmentation spots, dull or uneven complexion

Or, put another way, here are the acids to choose based on your skin issues:

• Dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin: hyaluronic acid.

• Mature, wrinkled skin: hyaluronic acid, retinol and vitamin C.

• Acne-prone, oily skin prone to redness (rosacea), dilated pores and microcysts: glycolic and salicylic acids, azelaic acid, retinol and niacinamide (not an acid).

• Hyperpigmentation and an uneven tone: vitamin C (ascorbic acid), retinol, azelaic acid, glycolic acid and nicotinamide (not an acid).

Azelaic acid is an active ingredient renowned for its many benefits for the face. Firstly, it is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it an effective ally in treating acne and skin blemishes. By regulating sebum production, it prevents clogged pores and stops pimples and blackheads from forming.

Azelaic acid is also used for its brightening properties. It works by inhibiting the excessive production of melanin, helping to reduce pigmentation spots, acne scars and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It contributes to a more even, luminous complexion.

Finally, azelaic acid is renowned for its gentle exfoliating properties. By promoting cell renewal, it helps to eliminate dead skin cells and reveal smoother, more radiant skin.

The differences between Azelaic acid and Nicotinamide

Although azelaic acid and nicotinamide are both beneficial active ingredients for the skin, they differ significantly in their actions and applications. Azelaic acid is effective for treating acne and pigmentation spots, while nicotinamide offers a wider range of benefits, including strengthening the skin barrier, reducing the appearance of pores and improving skin texture.

It can be used primarily for two conditions:

• Acne rosacea with excess sebum.

• Pigmentation spots and dull complexions.

For example, our Azelaic Acid Serum has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties (particularly against Propionibacterium acnes, responsible for inflammatory acne). It also has keratolytic and sebum-regulating properties.

It contains 10% azelaic acid, as well as silica, hyaluronic acid and plant-derived salicylic acid. Don't combine it with any other salicylic acid to avoid side-effects (irritation, redness, burning). It is suitable for acne-prone skin, as well as skin suffering from rosacea and dull, easily reddened complexions.

It is also suitable for use during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.

A closer look at our Azelaic Acid Serum Concentrate

This concentrated serum is an all-round anti-blemish treatment. With 10% azelaic acid, it is the answer for combination, oily and blemish-prone skin. It gives you a clear, radiant complexion. Azelaic acid, known for its keratolytic, anti-comedonal and antibacterial effects, is 100% natural and targets several factors responsible for acne at the same time. This serum unclogs and tightens pores, regulates excess sebum and calms redness. The results? Blackheads are reduced, pores are tightened and smoothed, and your complexion becomes clear and shine-free. Enriched with hyaluronic acid, this serum locks in moisture to revitalise dehydrated skin and make it feel pleasant again. Its formula contains silica with sebum-absorbing properties, for velvety, matte skin.

How do you apply it?

It can be applied in the morning or evening, with no risk of photosensitisation. It should be applied before your usual skincare creams or oils and sun protection.

Can it be combined with other active ingredients?

Azelaic acid can potentially be poorly tolerated by highly reactive skin, so we recommend you avoid combining it with irritating active ingredients, such as AHAs (fruit acids), glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or retinol. Our serum already contains salicylic acid, so there's no point, or even a potential danger, in applying any more salicylic acid to your skin.

On the other hand, combining it with hyaluronic acid is safe and maximises results.

It can be used predominantly for two conditions:

• Inflammatory acne.

• Secondary pigmentation spots, primarily skin showing the first signs of ageing and sensitive skin.

Remember that nicotinamide (vitamin B3) is not an acid, and is well tolerated by the skin. This vitamin, which is naturally present in the body and in certain foods, helps to slow cell ageing and limit oxidative stress. In particular, it has an anti-ageing effect, as well as interesting pigmentation-fading properties.

For example, our serum with nicotinamide (vitamin B3), zinc and copper is an essential ally for acne-prone and oily skin that's susceptible to hyperpigmentation and the signs of ageing. Its formula is enriched with hyaluronic acid, so it also brings comfort and hydration to the skin, while reducing skin inflammation, pimples and excess sebum.

A 10% concentration of nicotinamide also helps to gently fade the spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and redness that can appear after acne on mixed-race or darker skin tones. When Zinc (1%) is combined with copper, it has a strong anti-inflammatory effects and reduces the appearance of red spots and pustules, while improving skin hydration. Finally, it gives the complexion a matte finish and sebum secretion is regulated.

Therefore, it is ideal for oily skin, rosacea, dark spots and reactive skin. It is also suitable for use during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.

Focus on 10% Nicotinamide, Copper & Zinc serum concentrate

Highly concentrated in nicotinamide (vitamin B3), zinc and copper, our facial serum regulates sebum secretion, tightens enlarged pores, prevents pimples from forming, and reduces redness and dark spots. A genuine elixir for 'flawless skin': it leaves the skin clear, the complexion evened out and texture refined. It's THE must-have skincare product for oily, combination, acne-prone and blemish-prone skin! Its non-greasy formula is in an elegant ice-blue colour. It is enriched with hyaluronic acid, which has moisturising and anti-wrinkle properties, for a soft texture and plumped-up skin. This active, natural, fragrance-free facial serum can be used pure or with essential oils or fragrances to personalise it. Available in recyclable and economical eco-refills for easy bottle refills while reducing waste.

How do you apply it?

It can be used morning and/or evening. Massage a few drops of serum into your face and neck before applying your usual day/night skincare. This product is not photosensitising.

Can it be combined with other active ingredients?

It is possible to combine it with AHAs (fruit acids), glycolic acid or salicylic acid, but these combinations should preferably be spread out over the day. For example, nicotinamide serum in the morning, and the other AHAs in the evening, as they are potentially photosensitising. However, in theory, you could combine the two at the same time.

Finally, remember that serums or cosmetic products containing AHAs (glycolic acid in particular) can be irritating. Therefore, they should be reserved for your evening beauty routine to reduce sun exposure as much as possible. Similarly, avoid using too many irritating or abrasive products at the same time (e.g. salon exfoliators, DIY micro-peels and retinol, etc.), as this can damage your skin and make it uncomfortable (redness, itching, stinging, burning, etc.). Finally, including a good skin moisturiser will make your skin feel more soothed, comfortable, and, above all, more beautiful. So, don't hesitate to include hyaluronic acid in your beauty routine!

A closer look at our 10% Glycolic Acid AHA Concentrated Serum

Brighten your complexion with our facial serum that's highly concentrated in glycolic acid and AHA fruit acids! Thanks to its peeling effect, this serum eliminates dead cells and stimulates skin renewal for a radiant, even complexion. Particularly suitable for skin damaged by the sun, smoking or premature ageing, it reduces acne scars and smooths irregularities. It also tightens pores, fights blackheads and reduces wrinkles and dark spots. With its non-greasy gel texture, our glycolic acid-concentrated peel serum is also enriched with hyaluronic acid, which has moisturising and anti-wrinkle properties, for plumped-up skin. Fragrance-free, this natural face serum can be used pure or with essential oils or fragrances. Find out about the different possible additions and their dosages in this advice card.

Overall, the simple answer is simple: given that nicotinamide is well tolerated, there's not really a risky combination. However, remember that skincare products containing vitamin C are relatively 'fragile' and it's best to apply them separately from other skincare products, with the exception of hyaluronic acid (or a moisturiser) and sun cream. For example, apply vitamin C with hyaluronic acid in the morning and nicotinamide (with or without other active ingredients) in the evening.

In a nutshell:

Azelaic acid is ideal for oily skin with a tendency towards acne or rosacea, with or without dark spots. And nicotinamide is perfect for more sensitive, reactive and slightly more mature skin, potentially with inflammatory acne.

Finally, the argument about combining nicotinamide with other active ingredients should also be taken into account in this choice, given the excellent tolerance of nicotinamide compared with azelaic acid.

Retinol or hyaluronic acid?

Here again, it is important to consider the actions of these two components differently:

Hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin, which absorbs water and diminishes with age. When applied as a serum, it plumps the skin, erases fine lines and rehydrates dry, dehydrated or mature skin. It has no direct stripping or abrasive action, and no micro-peeling effect. It is well tolerated and rare to experience any side effects when using it.

For example, our Hyaluronic Acid Serum is 3.5% concentrated and is suitable for all skin types, but particularly dry and dehydrated skin, thanks to its moisturising and soothing properties.

It can also be used around the eyes, and even on the hair, especially dry, curly or textured hair.

Focus on Hyaluronic acid serum concentrate

This 100% natural hyaluronic acid serum is one of the most concentrated on the market: 3.5% compared with 0.1 to 1% hyaluronic acid in conventional cosmetics. Recognised for smoothing, moisturising and plumping the skin, its fresh, naturally gelled texture penetrates instantly without leaving bits on your skin or pulling. Its effectiveness as an anti-ageing serum has been tested. It has been proven to fill wrinkles, moisturise and improve skin elasticity. Our hyaluronic acid serum also works wonders on dry, damaged hair, softening and restructuring it. This anti-ageing face moisturising serum can be used on its own or can be personalised with other active ingredients. It's new formula contains no alcohol. Available in recyclable and inexpensive eco-refill packs for easy refilling to reduce waste. Find out about the different possible additions and their dosages in this fact sheet.

What is Retinol?

Retinol, on the other hand, is a derivative of vitamin A acid, which is a retinoid (a powerful keratolytic). It is more suited to mature skin or skin with imperfections. It is often poorly tolerated, especially when first used, because of its keratolytic action.

For example, our Optimised Retinal Concentrate Serum is made up of retinal, a precursor of retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A), and mastic tree extracts, which limit the breakdown of retinoic acid naturally present in our skin. It is also enriched with hyaluronic acid, improving the tolerance of this serum, as well as its moisturising and anti-ageing action.

This serum helps to smooth the skin, tighten pores, reduce blackheads and pimples, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also improves the complexion, making it more even and luminous, as well as limiting excess sebum.

It is designed for all skin types, but in particular mature skin needing anti-ageing action, oily skin, acne-prone and rosacea-prone skin, and dull or uneven complexions.

We now understand that one moisturises and plumps (hyaluronic acid) the skin, while the other exfoliates it and unclogs pores (retinol).

A closer look at Optimised Retinal Serum Concentrate

An all-round anti-ageing product, this serum has concentrated retinal, the precursor of retinoic acid and the only active form of vitamin A. This essential multi-targeting active ingredient combats the signs of ageing, firms the skin, reduces wrinkles and fine lines, fades spots and rosacea, and brightens the complexion. It is also renowned for treating acne-prone skin, as it has anti-inflammatory properties, eliminates impurities, and purifies, evens out and regulates oily skin. When it is combined with mastic tree extract, which stops the breakdown of retinoic acid naturally present in your skin, retinal's anti-ageing power is legendary! Available in a recyclable and economical eco-refill, so you can easily fill up your bottles again while reducing waste.

To sum up, these two active ingredients work in different ways, and the ideal solution is to combine them! Why not blend them at the same time (preferably in the evening for retinol)? As this improves both efficacy and tolerance.

Dermatologist's advice

As a reminder, retinol, unlike hyaluronic acid, can be poorly tolerated at first (burning, tingling, redness, dryness, etc.) and needs to be used gradually. Start with one or two applications a week, then gradually increase the frequency.

Ideally, for more sensitive skin, combine it with hyaluronic acid in a 'sandwich': apply a layer of hyaluronic acid, then retinol, then a second layer of hyaluronic acid.

Finally, if your skin doesn't tolerate retinol, take a break from applying the product while your skin gets used to it. And, in the meantime, use moisturising masks in the evening.

Dr Agathe Aoun - Coussieu is a dermatologist in Martinique, where she practises general, surgical and cosmetic dermatology. Passionate about skin wellness, she also offers advice and the most natural skincare products adapted to sensitive skin types and specific needs. She has also set up an Instagram account where you can find her favourite products, explanations of skin concerns and skin advice (@dragatheaoun).