The Spilanthes Active Ingredient

INCI Name: Spilanthes Acmella Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract or Acmella oleracea extract

VEGAN

BIOCHEMICAL COMPOSITION: The properties of Spilanthes are due to its high content of spilanthol, an isobutylamide of polyene and polyenoic acids, belonging to the family of fatty acid amides. The flowers and leaves of Spilanthes are the parts of the plant richest in spilanthol. They cause a tingling sensation when touched.

TRACEABILITY & SUSTAINABILITY: naturally derived active ingredient. The Spilanthes used by Aroma-Zone is obtained through oil extraction from the leaves and flowers of Spilanthes acmella using a patented process.

Spilanthes, or Brède mafane, is a flowering plant native to South America. Traditionally used to relieve mouth and throat pain due to its anesthetic properties, it also offers numerous benefits in cosmetics.

Thanks to its relaxing effect on subcutaneous muscle micro-contractions, Spilanthes smooths expression lines simply by applying it to the skin. This effect is rapid and reversible. The skin is visibly smoothed from the very first uses.

Beyond its rapid and visible effect on expression lines, Spilanthes prevents skin aging over the long term.

By stimulating the synthesis by dermal cells of collagen and elastin—which are responsible for the skin’s firmness and elasticity—this active ingredient firms the skin with continued use and prevents the formation of new wrinkles. It also has a soothing effect appreciated by mature skin, thanks to its ability to inhibit inflammatory mediators such as the NF-kB factor.

A study analyzed the anti-wrinkle efficacy of a serum containing Spilanthes. After 2 weeks of use, the volunteers’ wrinkles were significantly reduced, particularly around the eyes and lips. No skin irritation was reported.

A note from Adeline Nalin, our Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist at Aroma-Zone

“Spilanthes is an extract from the plant Acmella oleracea, primarily used as a natural alternative to synthetic peptides or Botox. It offers a gentle approach through topical application—no injections, no permanent muscle paralysis—for better tolerance. It is generally well-tolerated and is also suitable for dry to very dry skin.”

Adeline Nalin - Pharmacist and Head Toxicologist

Spilanthes Plant Concentrated Serum

The Spilanthes Plant Concentrated Serum is a certified organic and vegan skincare product that combines a plant complex of Spilanthes and Butterfly Lavender to immediately smooth expression lines thanks to their inhibitory action on micro-muscle contractions. Its formula also combines Hyaluronic acid, Cacay oil, and an extract of Astragalus, three active ingredients known to support collagen synthesis, preserve hydration, strengthen the skin barrier, and protect the skin from oxidative stress. Used morning and/or evening on the face and neck before your moisturizer, this serum provides a smoothing, firming, and plumping effect, ideal for mature skin and dry to very dry skin.

It can be combined with the 3.5% Hyaluronic Acid Concentrated Serum to intensify the plumping effect, or with the 1.5% Vegan Collagen Concentrated Serum to enhance firmness.

Rich Vegan Collagen & Spilanthes Cream

The Rich Vegan Collagen & Spilanthes Cream is a treatment designed for mature, dry to very dry skin, including sensitive skin. Its formula combines biomimetic vegan collagen, Spilanthes extract, and hyaluronic acid to comprehensively address visible signs of aging. Spilanthes, rich in spilanthol, targets expression lines thanks to its relaxing effect on skin micro-contractions, while vegan collagen helps improve firmness, density, and the definition of the facial contour. Hyaluronic acid completes this synergy by supporting hydration and a plump appearance of the skin. Used morning and night on the face and neck after serum, this cream helps smooth the skin, strengthen its structure, and improve its comfort, with a rich, creamy texture that absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy film.

A note from our Aroma-Zone toxicologist

“Although Spilanthes is safe, as with any plant-based extract, it may cause irritation, redness, a tingling sensation, or even an allergic reaction, particularly in people sensitive to plants in the Asteraceae family. It is recommended not to use it after a treatment that may disrupt the skin barrier, such as a peel, to avoid any risk of discomfort. It should also be avoided in cases of very sensitive skin.”

A Word from the Dermatologist

“Spilanthol is an active ingredient extracted from a plant traditionally used for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anesthetic properties. In recent years, it has emerged as a promising ingredient in anti-aging skincare, as preliminary studies suggest it has muscle-relaxing, antioxidant, and soothing effects. This active ingredient can be beneficial for smoothing the skin and can be used morning and night as part of your routine.”

Dr. Dima Haidar - Dermatologist

The Spilanthes extract used by Aroma-Zone is standardized for spilanthol, the molecule responsible for its smoothing action on expression lines. Its fat-soluble nature allows it to be incorporated into oil-based serums, where it fully exerts its action on skin micro-contractions. In the Spilanthes Plant Concentrated Serum, it is combined with butterfly lavender extract, also known for its action on expression lines. This combination helps relax micro-contractions in the subcutaneous muscles and enhances the immediate smoothing effect sought in anti-aging formulas. 

In the Vegan Collagen & Spilanthes Rich Cream, Spilanthes is combined with vegan collagen to work synergistically on all signs of aging: Spilanthes targets expression lines while collagen helps improve firmness and facial contours.

Morgane, who completed her PhD in 2022, is a researcher specialising in phytochemistry. Passionate about natural substances, she devotes her research to studying the composition and properties of plant extracts.