Myth or reality: should you change your skincare routine often?

The short answer: to date, there is no clinical evidence to suggest that the skin becomes accustomed to cosmetic products.

The skin interacts with topical products in an individualised way, if only because of the wide variations in the composition of our surface microbiomes. Beyond these individual nuances, researchers seem to agree that the efficacy of a cosmetic product depends on three key criteria. These are the transcutaneous penetration capacity of its formula, the concentration of its active ingredients, and the duration of application (1). As for the supposed need to rotate products, this is not mentioned in studies on the efficacy of skincare products. It is therefore unlikely that it determines the skin’s response to a cosmetic product or an active ingredient. On the other hand, it is entirely possible that the beneficial effects will disappear once a product is discontinued (2).

It may be necessary to change your cream several times a year, but not because of any biological ‘habituation’. Several factors can prompt a change in formula, without this need stemming from the skin becoming desensitised to its beauty products. Here are the main reasons put forward by research.

Good to know: a skin regeneration cycle lasts an average of 28 days. This is why skincare experts recommend waiting at least a month before assessing how well a cosmetic product works on your skin.

Myth or reality?

This is partly a myth. It isn’t necessary to change your routine regularly to ‘desensitise’ your skin to certain active ingredients and maintain their cosmetic effects. However, some skin types may well need to adapt their routine throughout the year, particularly depending on climatic factors.

What is false

• The skin does not become accustomed to active ingredients or cosmetic formulations. It is therefore pointless to attempt to desensitise it to counteract a supposed loss of effectiveness

• It is not necessary to change your skincare routine regularly to improve the condition of your skin, unless your skin suddenly shows signs of discomfort.

What is true

• The effectiveness of cosmetic products depends primarily on the penetration capacity of their formula and consistency in their use

• Certain unstable cosmetic formulations (for example, those containing vitamin C) may lose their effectiveness after opening if stored in unsuitable conditions

• People’s perception of the cosmetic results they observe can vary, creating the illusion that the skin has reached a physiological plateau.

Food for thought

The myth that the skin becomes accustomed to cosmetic products fuels lucrative trends for manufacturers, starting with ‘product hopping’, ‘maximalism’ and the resulting accumulation of products. By implying that it is necessary to change creams regularly to see satisfactory results, certain brands and influencers help pave the way for overconsumption. Yet the French are already heavy consumers of beauty products. In a single year (2016), the average consumer bought 38 cosmetic products (4). A 2019 survey also found that women use an average of 16 cosmetic products a day, nine of which are for the face alone (5). Debunking the myth that the skin gradually becomes accustomed to cosmetic active ingredients therefore puts taking responsibility for our consumption habits back at the heart of the debate. For the spectre of waste looms large. Indeed, nearly one in two French people (46 per cent) admit to having discarded a cosmetic product without finishing it (6).

1. Gentle Prebiotic, Zinc & Cucumber Cleansing Gel. Lather a small amount onto damp skin before rinsing. Its minimalist, soap-free and fragrance-free formula thoroughly cleanses the skin without causing dryness or irritation.

2. 3.5% Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Serum. Take advantage of your skin still being slightly damp to massage in one or two pumps of serum. Ideal for protecting the skin from dehydration, it helps plump up the skin’s appearance and gradually reduces the appearance of wrinkles.

3. Hyaluronic Acid & Polyglutamic Acid Cream. Finish your skincare routine by applying a small amount of cream to your face and neck. Certified organic, this 48-hour moisturiser leaves the skin soft, supple and plump, with a ‘baby-soft’ feel.

When you switch to a new skincare product (cream, serum, etc.), remember to carry out a sensitivity test on your new product. This precaution will allow you to check that your skin tolerates the formula. It can be tempting to incorporate more products and active ingredients into your routine in order to maximise its effectiveness. However, before doing so, you must first ensure that the active ingredients in your various cosmetic products are compatible. Respect your skin’s natural rhythm and introduce the most potent active ingredients gradually, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

To avoid disappointment, we advise you to make choices that are suited to your skin type. If your skin is prone to blemishes, it is unlikely that you’ll need to switch from a light serum to a cold cream overnight. First and foremost, focus on how your skin reacts to establish a suitable routine that you can stick to in the long term. And if you’re unsure about your skin type and its needs, seek advice from a dermatologist.

Hélène Betoux is a French beauty journalist specialising in web media. Every day she writes tips, advice, and guides to help consumers choose the right beauty products. With a strong interest in natural, organic, and clean cosmetics, she analyses and shares trends and innovations in the sector.