I’m using natural skincare products to treat my blemishes, but I still get spots?

The key role of the skin microbiome

The skin is home to a skin microbiome, that is, a collection of microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts, etc.) that contribute to its balance and barrier function. Among these, Cutibacterium acnes is often associated with the symptoms of acne. However, contrary to popular belief, this bacterium is not necessarily problematic: certain strains help maintain healthy skin by regulating the pH and limiting the proliferation of undesirable microorganisms. Research by Dessinioti & Katsambas (2020) and Dagnelie et al. (2021) show that it is not the presence of C. acnes in itself that promotes blemishes, but an imbalance in the skin microbiome, known as cutaneous dysbiosis (1, 2). In forms of inflammatory acne, there is indeed an overabundance of certain pro-inflammatory strains, as well as the formation of biofilms, which make the bacteria more resistant and perpetuate local inflammation (4).

CONCLUSION: Natural skincare products can support the skin barrier and help maintain the balance of the microbiome. However, when skin dysbiosis is already present, particularly in the context of chronic inflammation, they are not always sufficient on their own to restore this balance.

Genetics, hormones and the inflammatory response

When it comes to skin blemishes, the scientific literature highlights the combined role of genetics, which influences the sensitivity of the sebaceous glands; androgens, which stimulate sebum production; and the skin’s immune response, which is sometimes exacerbated in certain individuals (1, 10). These factors explain why two people using similar skincare products may experience very different results. 

CONCLUSION: Natural skincare products mainly act on the skin itself, whereas some causes are systemic and biological.

Chronic inflammation and stress

The interactions between the skin microbiome, the immune system and inflammation are now well documented. Low-grade inflammation, linked in particular to high levels of chronic and everyday stress, can cause acne lesions to persist over time, even when the skincare routine is appropriate (3, 4).

CONCLUSION: in this context, natural skincare products, even when well-formulated, may have their limitations if they are not part of a broader approach that includes managing stress and factors contributing to chronic inflammation.

“Cosmetic acne”: a documented reality

Several clinical studies have shown that the nature of the ingredients alone is not enough to guarantee good skin tolerance. The concept of “cosmetic acne” describes the onset or worsening of blemishes linked to the use of unsuitable products, particularly those with overly occlusive textures, combinations of ingredients that promote follicular blockage, or high concentrations of certain esters or fatty substances. A study by Kim et al. (2025) thus highlights an association between the repeated use of cosmetics containing comedogenic ingredients and an increased risk of developing signs of acne (5).

Formulation, pH and comedogenicity

Formulation, defined as the form and structure of a cosmetic product (emulsion, gel, serum, etc.) which determines the release of active ingredients, their penetration into the skin and skin tolerance, directly influences the penetration of active ingredients, their interaction with sebum and their impact on the skin microbiome. Specific research on comedogenicity shows that even ingredients widely used in cosmetics can become problematic depending on their formulation. Thus, a poorly formulated natural skincare product can upset the balance of blemish-prone skin, despite having a composition that appears beneficial at first glance (6, 7).

Persistent blemishes often require an integrated approach that combines, in addition to a suitable skincare routine, attention to systemic inflammation (stress management, diet, etc.) and an assessment of hormonal and environmental factors. Indeed, blemishes are not just a skin issue. Several studies show the significant impact of acne symptoms – particularly in adulthood – on quality of life, self-esteem and mental health . Zeichner et al. (2022) and Park et al. (2025) report that 30–50 per cent of people with acne experience symptoms of anxiety, depression or a marked impairment in self-image. These findings fully justify a holistic, compassionate and progressive approach, alongside natural treatments (8, 9).

In other words, is it normal to still get spots despite using natural skincare products? Yes, and this situation is far more common than you might think. Persistent blemishes aren’t simply down to the choice of products, but to a combination of biological, skin-related and systemic mechanisms that interact with one another. To better understand why natural remedies can sometimes have their limitations, and under what circumstances they remain fully effective, we’ve brought together the perspectives of a dermatologist and a naturopath. Their complementary insights help to highlight the importance of a holistic approach, tailored to each individual’s skin type.

A word from the dermatologist

“Among the useful and commonly used active ingredients, zinc is a trace element recognised for its regulating and anti-inflammatory properties. I recommend it to people with oily skin prone to blemishes. As it is well tolerated, it can be used both in the morning and in the evening as part of your skincare routine, either on its own or in combination with other treatments.”

Dr Dima Haidar, dermatologist

A word from the naturopath

“Have you ever noticed that your skin changes throughout your menstrual cycle? As you go through the four phases, hormones take turns affecting your skin. Oestrogen promotes the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, which help keep the skin better hydrated and well-supplied with blood. Progesterone has the benefit of refining the skin’s texture and tightening the pores. Finally, testosterone tends to increase sebum secretion.”

Marion Pezard, naturopath specialising in supporting women and children

To look after your skin every day with simple, targeted steps, why not try our natural, comprehensive skincare routine? It’s easy to follow and tailored to the needs of skin prone to imbalances:

1. Gentle cleansing: Start by cleansing your face morning and evening with our Gentle Prebiotic, Zinc & Cucumber Cleansing Gel, which will help purify your skin while respecting its natural balance. Avoid contact with the eyes. Avoid contact with the eyes. In case of contact with the eyes, rinse thoroughly with clean water.

2. Target imbalances: Then apply a few drops of Concentrated Serum Niacinamide 10%, Copper & Zinc.  Lightweight and easy to incorporate into your routine, it helps to even out the complexion and improve the overall appearance of the skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use. Keep out of reach of children. Suitable for combination to oily, non-sensitive skin prone to acne. Not suitable for skin prone to erythrocouperosis redness.

3. Moisturise without weighing skin down: Follow with Zinc Hyaluronate & Plant-Based Salicylic Acid Fluid Cream, a lightweight, non-greasy moisturiser that hydrates the skin while leaving a feeling fresh. Ideal for combination to oily skin. Avoid the eye area; in case of contact with the eyes, rinse immediately with clean water.

4. Act from within: The Clear Skin dietary supplement combines plant extracts, from burdock to zinc, to support the skin from within. A natural solution to support daily skin balance. Take 2 capsules per day with a glass of water. Not a substitute for a varied and balanced diet and a healthy lifestyle. Do not exceed the recommended daily dose. For adults only. Not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women, or in cases of heart failure or oedematous renal failure. Not recommended in cases of allergy to salicylic derivatives or known cross-allergy, particularly to plants of the Asteraceae family. Keep out of reach of children.

To find out more, discover our anti-blemish routine.

Blemish-prone skin can be reactive: introducing natural skincare products gradually allows you to assess how well your skin tolerates them. If the condition persists or if there are severe inflammatory lesions, it is still advisable to seek medical advice.

When dealing with blemish-prone skin, natural skincare products alone aren’t enough: it’s their genuine non-comedogenicity that makes the difference. This means prioritising lightweight formulations, tested for skin tolerance, with combinations of ingredients that do not block the follicles and respect the microbiome. Contrary to popular belief, oily textures are not necessarily comedogenic: when carefully selected and correctly formulated, certain plant oils and oil serums can, on the contrary, help maintain the skin’s balance in problem skin.

Lou graduated from HEC in 2012. She gained ten years’ experience in marketing within the cosmetics and perfumery sectors before setting up her own consultancy in this field. She recently completed a three-year course in naturopathy at the European College of Holistic Naturopathy (CENATHO, Paris) with the aim of supporting the physical and mental health of the people she works with through a holistic approach to lifestyle.