Tonka Bean Absolute

• Tonka bean absolute is considered a "base note," capable of producing a sublime sweet and very warm vanilla note.

• The natural coumarins it contains allow for very sweet "fern" accords when combined with "lavender" and "oak moss."

• Frequently found in the composition of perfumes:

Oriental women's fragrances: tonka bean appeals to both women and men with its sweet, gourmand scents.

Masculine: tonka bean is often found in the base notes of very elegant and virile men's fragrances.

A few ideas

• Create a captivating and sexy masculine fougère fragrance. Depending on whether you want to give it an energetic and intrepid feel, combine tonka bean with fresh citrus top notes (bergamot, grapefruit, etc). For a more elegant and sensual feel, add cedarwood or guaiac wood.

• Playful and childlike, create an appetising and sweet fragrance around chocolate, vanilla, etc. Accompanied, of course, by tonka bean.

• Half angel, half devil, combine tonka bean with slightly bitter citrus fruits: bergamot, combawa, lime, etc.

Perfume

• Solubility

Tonka bean absolute is perfectly soluble in 90° alcohol. However, it is insoluble in water and fatty substances (vegetable oils and butters).

• Handling

This absolute is solid. To make it easier to use and measure out, we recommend using a spatula to scoop it out.

Wash your accessories with soapy water and then rinse with alcohol.

• Cosmetic active ingredient

As an ingredient in your perfume formulation, we recommend preparing an alcoholic liquid concentrate to facilitate dosing.

1. Collect your absolute as explained above.

2. Weigh 0.5 grams (1 DASH spoon) of Tonka Bean Absolute into a marmotton bottle.

3. Crush the absolute with the back of the spatula.

4. Add 1.5 ml of 90° alcohol.

5. Leave the Tonka Bean Absolute to macerate in alcohol for 24 hours, shaking occasionally.

6. Then add this liquid Tonka bean concentrate drop by drop to your fragrance preparation using a dropper pipette.

Beauty

• Solubility

Tonka Bean Absolute is dispersible in emulsions, fats (oils, vegetable butters, and balms), cleansing bases , and aqueous gels.

However, it is insoluble in water.

• Handling

This absolute is solid. To make it easier to use and measure out, we recommend using a spatula.

Wash your equipment with soapy water and then rinse with alcohol.

• Cosmetic active ingredient: As an ingredient in the formulation of your cosmetic preparations:

If you wish to incorporate Tonka bean absolute into an emulsion, we recommend adding this absolute to the oil phase of your emulsion and heating the mixture in a double boiler to 70°C to melt the absolute into the oil phase.

To make a balm, gel, or cleansing product, we recommend pouring the crushed absolute into the preparation, gel, or cleansing base and heating the mixture in a double boiler, stirring until homogenised.

Culture

Conventional cultivation

Quality

100% pure and natural

Method of production

Extracted using a volatile solvent, then washed with alcohol and concentrated.

Part of the plant used

Bean

Botanical name

Dipteryx odorata

Function

Cosmetic ingredient

Other names

Coumarou

Learn more

Organoleptic properties

• Appearance: solid

• Colour: light brown to dark brown

• Smell: a subtle blend of praline and vanilla between the balsamic scent of sweet caramel or blond tobacco and the aromatic bitterness of a cocoa bean.

Flash point

100°C

Storage

Store in an airtight bottle, away from air and light, at a temperature below 25°C.

Precautions

• A natural compound contained in this absolute may present a risk of allergy to certain sensitive individuals when the absolute is incorporated into a cosmetic composition (according to the 7th Amendment to the European Directive on cosmetic products (2003/15/EC)): coumarin.

• Due to the presence of coumarins (components naturally present in tonka beans and responsible for their scent), the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has issued recommendations regarding the maximum dosage of tonka bean absolute in cosmetic formulas:

  • Perfumes and eau de toilette: 1.6%

  • Deodorants: 0.13%

  • Hydroalcoholic products applied to recently shaved skin and aftershave creams: 0.5%

  • Hydroalcoholic products applied to unshaven skin and body creams: 1.6%

  • Face and hand creams: 0.8%

  • Rinse-off products for the body and hair (soaps, shower gels, shampoos, and conditioners): 5%

• As a general rule, always test your preparation on the inside of your elbow at least 48 hours before use.

• Dangerous. Follow the precautions for use.

• Harmful if swallowed. May cause skin allergies. Harmful in contact with skin (risk associated with the product in its pure form).

Warning

The properties, indications and methods of use described above are derived from scientific literature and/or reference books or websites in aromatherapy, hydrolatherapy and phytotherapy. This general information is provided for informational purposes only and cannot under any circumstances be considered as medical information. This information cannot under any circumstances replace a diagnosis, consultation or medical follow-up, nor engage our liability.

Supplier documents

www.wikipedia.com

www.osmoz.fr

www.auparfum.fr

www.ifra.com

Practical work on the preparation and packaging of medicines

Jean-Marie Fonteneau, Philippe Klusiewicz

 Physical and chemical constants of the main resinous products in the University of Lyon's drug cabinet.

Albert Dubois.