Discover oil serums, surprising alternatives to water-based serums.

An oil serum is a serum formulated from an oil phase: a blend of plant oils, sometimes essential oils, and sometimes lipophilic active ingredients (which dissolve in fatty substances), designed to deliver targeted benefits to the skin. Unlike a cream or balm, oil serums do not contain water, which allows them to seal in moisture, deeply nourish the skin, and strengthen its lipid barrier. Today, some formulas are specially developed for oily or acne-prone skin, with light oils and anti-inflammatory, purifying, or soothing active ingredients.

A serum is a concentrated active ingredient treatment designed to penetrate the skin quickly and address a specific need: lack of hydration, discomfort, uneven complexion, or signs of aging. Its texture is generally lighter than a cream, allowing it to deliver active ingredients in a targeted manner, complementing daily skincare routines.

The main difference between a water-based serum and an oil-based serum lies in their formulation base and the nature of the active ingredients they contain.

Oil serums are formulated from plant oils, sometimes enriched with fat-soluble active ingredients. Rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, they help nourish the skin, support the skin barrier, and preserve its balance.

They are often associated with dry or mature skin, as their texture provides suppleness and comfort. However, contrary to popular belief, not all oils are occlusive. Some light vegetable oils, such as jojoba, hazelnut, nigella, and grape seed, are known to be non-comedogenic and well tolerated by combination to oily skin. Their fine texture nourishes without clogging pores and helps maintain skin balance.

Conversely, richer oils, such as avocado, coconut, or wheat germ, are more occlusive and generally less suitable for blemish-prone skin.

Oil serums offer a more enveloping texture and are often appreciated in the evening, when the skin enters its natural regeneration phase.

Water-based serums are mainly composed of water and water-soluble active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, certain vitamins, exfoliating acids, or plant extracts. They have a fluid or slightly gel-like texture, are often refreshing, and are quickly absorbed. They are particularly appreciated for their moisturizing effect and light feel, making them popular with combination, oily, or blemish-prone skin types. They hydrate the skin and target specific needs, such as hydration, radiance, or skin renewal.

An oil-based serum acts differently from a water-based serum because it provides the skin with lipids, oil-soluble active ingredients, and a protective effect on the surface. Depending on its composition, it can nourish, strengthen the skin barrier, soothe, or even help the skin retain moisture better.

Plant oils provide essential fatty acids that contribute to the structure of the hydrolipidic film. This natural film protects the skin and limits water loss. An oil-based serum thus helps to maintain the skin's suppleness and reduce feelings of discomfort or tightness.

Certain plant oils naturally contain protective compounds such as phytosterols and antioxidants. They help to support the skin barrier and protect the skin from external aggressions. This action is particularly beneficial when the skin is fragile or sensitive.

Oil-based serums allow for the incorporation of lipid-soluble active ingredients that are not found in water-based formulas. These compounds have a natural affinity with the skin barrier, which promotes their diffusion into the skin.

Oil-based serums are often recommended for dry or uncomfortable skin, as they provide nourishment and protection.

But certain light, non-comedogenic plant oils, such as jojoba, hazelnut, and grape seed, are also suitable for combination to oily skin. They nourish without clogging pores and help maintain skin balance.

An oil-based serum can be used alone as an overall treatment, after a water-based serum to help retain moisture, or in addition to a cream, depending on the skin's needs.

The choice of an oil-based serum depends above all on the skin's needs: to soothe, nourish, purify, brighten, or strengthen the skin barrier. Depending on the plant oils and active ingredients in the formula, the effects may vary.

Here are a few guidelines for choosing an oil-based serum suited to your skin type:

Skin type or main need

Recommended oil-based serum

Main benefits

Sensitive, reactive, or fragile skin

Soothing Ceramide & Phytosterol Oil Serum

Soothes feelings of discomfort, helps reduce redness and strengthens the skin barrier

Dry to very dry skin

Soothing Ceramide & Phytosterol Oil Serum

Nourishes the skin, limits dehydration, and improves skin comfort

Combination to oily skin prone to imperfections

Purifying Oil Serum with Manuka & Postbiotics

Helps purify the skin, regulate excess sebum, and support skin balance

Dull skin, pigmentation spots or lack of radiance

Vitamin C & Glabridin Anti-Dark Spot Oil Serum

Helps brighten the complexion, improve its evenness, and protect the skin from oxidative stress

Mature skin or skin lacking comfort

Vitamin C & Glabridin Anti-Dark Spot Oil Serum

Nourishes the skin, supports its suppleness, and helps preserve the radiance of the complexion

Depending on your needs, an oil serum can be incorporated into your routine in different ways. It can be applied after a water-based serum to seal in moisture and enhance the effectiveness of previous treatments. It can also be used on its own, especially in the evening, as a comprehensive moisturizing and rebalancing treatment. Finally, for those who like to personalize their routine, it can be mixed directly with a water-based serum to create a customized texture. The most innovative formulas even incorporate postbiotics, derived from the skin microbiome, which provide additional support by rebalancing the skin's flora and strengthening its natural defenses.

Oil-based serums are generally well tolerated, but it is recommended to test the product on the crook of your elbow before using it for the first time. Choose a formula that is suitable for your skin type, as some oils are richer than others. Apply only a few drops so as not to overload the skin and discontinue use if you experience any discomfort. Finally, store your serum away from light and heat to preserve the quality of the oils.