Aroma-Zone Menthol Active Ingredient

INCI Name: Menthol

NATURAL / SYNTHETIC

100% plant-based, 100% pure and natural. Certified 100% organic by Ecocert Greenlife in accordance with the COSMOS standard.

VEGAN – LABELS

BIOCHEMICAL COMPOSITION

The menthol used is composed of 100% L-menthol.

SUSTAINABILITY / TRACEABILITY

Aroma-Zone Menthol is produced by cooling crystallisation of the essential oil of Mentha Arvensis. Sourced from certified organic cultivation, this menthol forms part of a controlled sourcing approach (recycled PET jar, predominantly recyclable packaging, packaging containing at least 75% recycled material).

Menthol acts as a key ingredient to deliver a precise sensory response at the epidermal level. Its main action is based on the activation of specific sensory receptors called TRPM8, which are naturally responsible for detecting cold on the skin. This interaction does not cause any actual physical cooling of the tissues, but it sends a signal to the nervous system that recreates an immediate sensation of ‘icy freshness’. 

Physiologically, the application of menthol promotes the dilation of superficial blood vessels, which stimulates the skin microcirculation by promoting the release of nitric oxide from vascular cells. This invigorating property is accompanied by an effect on skin permeability. Menthol can temporarily alter the barrier function of the stratum corneum, which may have the benefit of improving the penetration of other active ingredients in cosmetic formulations. At low concentrations, it also helps to relieve itching sensations by acting on the skin’s sensory receptors.

The effectiveness of Menthol has been demonstrated by numerous studies*, which highlight the importance of correct dosages in order to achieve the expected benefits. Clinical studies show that at concentrations of between 0.1% and 1%, Menthol is an effective solution for alleviating feelings of discomfort and itching. When used at higher concentrations, between 1.25% and 16%, it stimulates the receptors more intensely and can act as a powerful cooling agent, but may also cause irritation. 

One specific study highlighted that a gel containing 3.5 per cent menthol was more effective at reducing discomfort associated with muscle soreness more effectively than the application of ice alone. In terms of duration, in vivo tests reveal that topical application can maintain a significant cooling sensation for up to 70 minutes in the majority of subjects. In terms of circulation, a 3 per cent gel has been shown to increase cutaneous blood flow by 0.3 mL/min, thereby providing a toning effect where ice tends to slow down circulation. 

Finally, beyond its sensory properties, it exhibits antibacterial and antifungal activity that has been demonstrated in the scientific literature against various microorganisms, which enhances its appeal for use in hygiene products.

*Please refer to the scientific bibliography for further information.

Adeline Nalin - Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist

Menthol is a sensory active ingredient that takes effect immediately upon application, providing an intense sensation of freshness which can sometimes develop into an interesting hot/cold effect depending on the formulation. This characteristic makes it a popular ingredient in relaxing skincare products to provide a sense of comfort to areas of tension, but also in oral hygiene products for its characteristic cooling effect, or in lip care products where it helps to create a plumping effect through mechanical stimulation.

In formulation, the key factor to manage is its solubility: menthol is not soluble in water and must be dissolved beforehand in an oily or alcoholic phase before being incorporated into a formulation. This step is essential to prevent the formation of crystals (as this is the ingredient’s basic form), ensure even distribution throughout the product and guarantee a consistent sensory effect on the skin.

Menthol can be found in several products in our catalogue, for example: 

Special care must be taken when using Menthol to ensure its safe use. It is strictly prohibited for children under 7 years of age and infants under 36 months, in whom it may cause an apnoea reflex. This active ingredient is also not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women, or for people with epilepsy or a history of seizures.

Never apply it undiluted to the skin and always handle it whilst wearing gloves, avoiding any contact with the eyes or face. High-dose applications must be limited to localised areas of intact skin (free from burns or wounds), following a tolerance test carried out in the crook of the elbow 48 hours beforehand. Finally, take care not to inhale the vapours produced during hot dilution and seek advice from your homeopath if you are currently undergoing treatment.