Aroma-Zone Menthol Active Ingredient

INCI Name: Menthol

NATURAL/SYNTHETIC: 100% plant-based, 100% pure and natural. Certified 100% organic by Ecocert Greenlife in accordance with the COSMOS standard.

VEGAN – LABELS

BIOCHEMICAL COMPOSITION: The menthol used is composed of 100% L-menthol.

SUSTAINABILITY / TRACEABILITY: Aroma-Zone Menthol is produced by cooling crystallisation of the essential oil of Mentha Arvensis. Sourced from certified organic cultivation, this menthol forms part of a controlled sourcing approach (recycled PET jar, predominantly recyclable packaging, packaging containing at least 75% recycled material).

Menthol is a key ingredient that delivers a precise sensory response at the epidermal level. Its main action is activating specific sensory receptors called TRPM8, which naturally detect cold on the skin. This interaction does not cause any actual physical cooling of the tissues, but it sends a signal to the nervous system that recreates an immediate sensation of ‘icy freshness’. 

Physiologically, menthol promotes dilation of superficial blood vessels, stimulating skin microcirculation by promoting the release of nitric oxide from vascular cells. This invigorating property is accompanied by an effect on skin permeability. Menthol can temporarily alter the barrier function of the stratum corneum, which may improve the penetration of other active ingredients in cosmetic formulations. At low concentrations, it also helps to relieve itching sensations by acting on the skin’s sensory receptors.

The effectiveness of menthol has been demonstrated by numerous studies*, which highlight the importance of correct dosages in order to achieve the expected benefits. Clinical studies show that at concentrations between 0.1% and 1%, menthol effectively alleviates discomfort and itching. At higher concentrations, between 1.25% and 16%, it stimulates receptors more intensely and can act as a powerful cooling agent, but it may also cause irritation. 

One study found that a gel containing 3.5 per cent menthol reduced discomfort associated with muscle soreness more effectively than applying ice alone. In terms of duration, in vivo tests reveal that topical application can maintain a significant cooling sensation for up to 70 minutes in the majority of subjects. Regarding circulation, a 3% gel has been shown to increase cutaneous blood flow by 0.3 mL/min, providing a toning effect where ice tends to slow circulation. 

Finally, beyond its sensory properties, it exhibits antibacterial and antifungal activity demonstrated in the scientific literature against various microorganisms, enhancing its appeal for use in hygiene products.

*Please refer to the scientific bibliography for further information.

A Note from Adeline Nalin, Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist at Aroma-Zone

“Menthol is known for its refreshing properties. However, it must be used with caution and at concentrations that are generally low in finished products to ensure good skin tolerance.”

Adeline Nalin - Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist

A Note from Our Aroma-Zone Toxicologist

“Menthol in low doses is generally well tolerated in cosmetic products. However, it is not recommended for sensitive groups, such as children under 7 and babies, pregnant women, or people with epilepsy. Avoid contact with the eyes and do not apply menthol-based formulations near the eyes. Do not touch your eyes or face with the gloves used to handle menthol. Always wash your hands after using a menthol-based product.”

Adeline Nalin - Head Pharmacist and Toxicologist

A Note from the Dermatologist

"Menthol is a cyclic monoterpene alcohol extracted from peppermint. Both lipophilic and volatile, this active ingredient is able to penetrate the skin. It provides a sensation of freshness by activating TRPM8 ion channels. Its soothing effect, particularly in cases of itching associated with eczema, for example, stimulates gamma-A sensory fibres and may help to inhibit pain sensations thanks to its analgesic properties.

Finally, it must not be used on mucous membranes or open wounds, nor on people with a history of epilepsy or convulsions, as it may increase neuronal excitability."

Dr Agathe Aoun – Dermatologist

Menthol is a sensory active ingredient that takes effect immediately upon application, delivering an intense sensation of freshness that can sometimes develop into a distinctive hot-and-cold effect, depending on the formulation. This characteristic makes it a popular ingredient in relaxing skincare products, where it helps provide a sense of comfort in areas of tension. It is also used in oral hygiene products for its characteristic cooling effect and in lip care products, where it helps create a plumping effect through mechanical stimulation.

During formulation, the key factor to manage is its solubility. Menthol is not soluble in water and must first be dissolved in an oily or alcoholic phase before being incorporated into a formulation. This step is essential to prevent crystal formation, ensure even distribution throughout the product and provide a consistent sensory effect on the skin.

Menthol is a versatile active ingredient that addresses different needs depending on the application area and concentration. It is primarily recommended for skin in need of an invigorating boost and an intense sensation of freshness.

For skin prone to itching, incorporating menthol at a low concentration (0.1% to 1%) may provide immediate relief and help soothe the skin. Its effect on skin microcirculation also makes it suitable for products designed to improve leg comfort and provide a lasting feeling of lightness.

It is also ideal for lip care, where its sensory action can create a subtle swelling effect, giving the lips a fuller appearance. However, this active ingredient is not suitable for all skin conditions. It should not be used on damaged skin, including skin with grazes, burns or irritation. Avoid it on mucous membranes and very sensitive areas, particularly around the eyes. Finally, as sensitivity to its intense cooling effect varies from person to person, it is advisable to carry out a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it more widely.

Menthol can be used in products designed to meet a range of everyday needs, primarily thanks to its refreshing and soothing properties. Its intense cooling effect and ability to stimulate microcirculation make it suitable for gels and balms designed to improve comfort in the legs and feet. It is also used in sports care products to help relieve discomfort associated with muscle soreness and promote a feeling of muscle relaxation.

In lip balms, menthol can cause slight redness and subtle swelling, creating a fuller appearance. Its purifying properties and characteristic scent also make it suitable for toothpastes and mouthwashes designed to freshen the breath and mask unpleasant odours.

At low concentrations, it may also help soothe skin prone to irritation and itching. Finally, although its effect is often linked to the sensation it creates rather than actual physical decongestion, inhaling menthol can create a feeling of improved airflow and help relieve respiratory discomfort, particularly when the nose feels blocked.

• An Immediate Sensation of Freshness: By activating the cold-sensitive TRPM8 sensory receptors, it delivers that intense, characteristic ‘ice cube effect’ without actually changing the skin’s actual temperature

• A Revitalising Effect on Microcirculation: When applied, it promotes local vasodilation, which stimulates blood flow at the skin’s surface

• Relief From Itching: When used at low concentrations (between 0.1% and 1%), it helps to alleviate skin discomfort by acting on sensory receptors

• Natural Volume for the Lips: When incorporated into balms, it causes a slight reddening and subtle plumping, thereby giving the lips a fuller appearance

• Improved Penetration of Active Ingredients: By temporarily altering the permeability of the stratum corneum, it facilitates the passage of other ingredients in your formulations, such as essential oils, through the epidermis

• Purifying Properties: Its action against various microorganisms, particularly bacteria and fungi, helps to maintain skin hygiene and protect the skin

Menthol can be found in several products in our catalogue, for example: 

Solid Fluoride Toothpaste – Menthol & Lemon

This solid toothpaste with zinc and fluoride effectively combats plaque and tartar, ensuring teeth that are radiantly healthy. Its natural formula, enriched with organic lemon, strengthens and polishes the enamel to promote whiteness, while menthol provides long-lasting fresh breath. Perfect for sensitive gums, this comprehensive care product protects against and prevents tooth decay for a radiant, healthy smile.

Transparent ‘Ice Cube Effect’ Lip Oil

This skincare formula coats the lips in mirror-like shine while moisturising them and delivering an immediate plumping and refreshing effect. Enriched with hyaluronic acid, camellia oil and pomegranate extract, this lip oil leaves the lips nourished, fuller-looking and visibly smoother. +22% volume without injections¹ ⁴

Special care must be taken when using menthol to ensure its safe use. It must not be used on children under 7 years of age, including babies and toddlers under 36 months, in whom it may cause an apnoea reflex. This active ingredient is also not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women, or for people with epilepsy or a history of seizures.

Never apply it undiluted to the skin and always handle it while wearing gloves, avoiding any contact with the eyes or face. High-dose applications must be limited to localised areas of intact skin (free from burns or wounds), following a tolerance test carried out in the crook of the elbow 48 hours beforehand. Finally, take care not to inhale the vapours produced during hot dilution and seek advice from your homeopath if you are currently undergoing treatment.

Delphine is a biological engineer specialising in cosmetology. Passionate about cosmetics for almost ten years, she began making her own skincare products with Aroma-Zone ingredients to address her skin concerns. She then trained as a cosmetologist before creating her own bespoke cosmetics brand to address each person’s individual skin concerns.